Whipper Snapper Wheatbelt Series Single Malt

This is the third release in the Wheat Belt series from Whipper Snapper, featuring a single malt. Founded in 2013, Whipper Snapper has been producing its signature corn whisky, similar to bourbon, along with various limited batches, all quite respectable. Now, they've applied their unique Upshot character to barley and a single malt. For this bottling, Whipper Snapper sourced "Spartacus" barley from the Nyoongar boodja Wheatbelt region. It was malted on-site near the Perth CBD and aged for four years in used Upshot barrels, which are virgin American oak. I'm told that open-top fermentation is used by WS to achieve warmer fermentation, resulting in a more fruit-forward character and deeper esters from the barley. The WS hybrid column still operates with four plates, collecting the heart cuts at 30% ABV to ensure only the finest spirit, yielding a savory, fruity, oily single malt distillate bottled at an average of 63% ABV. Nose: A robust gristy barley aroma is present, accompanied by notes of brown sugar and dark honey. Some harsh ethanol notes emerge at the periphery, somewhat obscuring brighter floral and orchard fruit characteristics. Palate: Exhibits a slightly oily yet smooth mouthfeel. The barley is prominent, with caramel and vanilla flavors complementing the sweet barley base. Subtle notes of pear juice, cinnamon, and nutmeg are detected. Finish: Brief. Initially shows a hint of leather or dark wood, but quickly gives way to tannic spice and a creamy toffee essence. I'm surprised, once again. While the Rye from the wheatbelt series impressed me with its unexpected excellence, this single malt has surprised me by being (1) perfectly acceptable as an emerging single malt and (2) completely unremarkable. Despite the emphasis on local terroir and authentic grain from the wheatbelt series, this whisky, in my opinion, lacks a distinctive identity. I support local producers, but at AUD$150, it faces competition from alternatives like Monkey Shoulder at $63, Glenfiddich 12 at $75, or even The Classic Laddie or Highland Park 10 for under $100. Numerous entry-level single malts offer their own unique characteristics, making it difficult to justify this commendable effort from Whipper Snapper given its high price point. [Featured alongside a piece of local Tamala Limestone, a geological formation comprising much of the Western Australian coast. This Tamala Limestone is actually sandstone, made of wind-blown shell fragments and quartz that accumulated as coastal dunes during the mid- to late Pleistocene and early Holocene epochs (~20,000-10,000 years ago). Through sedimentation and water percolation through the shelly sands, the mixture later solidified as the dissolved lime content cemented the grains together. A young rock from Perth seems fitting for this new single malt entrant]. Whipper Snapper Running Scores Crazy Uncle Moonshine: 3/5 Crazy Uncle Barrel Aged Moonshine: 3.25/5 Upshot: 3.5/5 Upshot Cask Strength: 3.5/5 Upshot Red Corn: 3.25/5 Project Q: 3.25 Wheat Belt Series Wheat: 3.75/5 Wheat Belt Series Rye: 4.25/5 Wheat Belt Series Single Malt: 2.75/5

Nose: Fruit (apple skin), cereal (fresh wort), rich notes (oily barley? fortified wine?) and sharp oak barrel. A wintergreen scent is also present. Overall, it's a fresh, bright nose but clearly young. Palate: Smooth, velvety arrival brimming with barley oils. Reminiscent of a pot-still Irish whiskey taken to extreme levels. It quickly develops many awkward spice notes (caraway, nutmeg, fennel) and significant simple heat with an ethanol undertone. The texture is thick and oily but lacks polish. Finish: Medium. Gritty cereal with wood and spice notes. I recently got three Whipper Snapper samples and decided to try this single malt first, as a recent review by a peer rated this lowest among the same three whiskies. This malt exhibits characteristics more typical of a rye whisky; in fact, if tasted blind, its overwhelming chorus of bready spices and minty wintergreen would suggest a barley-forward rye rather than a single malt. The nose is warming and enticing, and despite obvious signs of youth, its crisp freshness makes it work. However, the palate was a major disappointment. It's here that its immature character is fully apparent, a display of bold flavors that haven't begun to integrate into anything approaching maturity. This is apparently four years old and if that's accurate, it needs several more years in a refill bourbon cask within a very stable environment to mellow. Right now, it's a loud infant, and I honestly couldn't finish the tasting sample. It's also extremely expensive. Comparing this to any Scottish single malt in the same price range would be embarrassing. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Adequate": 73/100 (2.25 stars)