Smith's Angaston 8 Year (Vintage 2011)

Nose: Abundant barley sugar, golden syrup, malt extract, dried dates, milk chocolate, toffee, molasses, vanilla pods, caramel, aged oak, and an overwhelming amount of fortified wine (sherry, port, muscat). Water reveals leathery notes and a hint of clove and baking spice. Palate: The initial taste is sweet and smooth, beginning like a gentle wave before becoming a flood of wine-influenced barley spirit immersed in fortified wine. Dark fruits, cherries, preserved peel, almonds, golden syrup, barley sugar. It resembles a rich Christmas cake soaked in sherry and brandy, with a heavy, luxurious texture. Although it starts very sweet, the palate shifts towards dryness as it progresses. Similar to the nose, water alters the palate by emphasizing its dry, spicy character while moderating the sweetness. Finish: Medium/Long. Dried fruit and malt fade into wine and reduced sugar syrups (molasses, treacle, golden syrup), yet sufficient oak tannin provides balance. Water introduces a lemon oil flavor to the aftertaste. This is one of the rarest Australian single malts. It originates from the esteemed Yalumba winery in Angaston, Barossa Valley, South Australia. Whisky was produced there from the 1950s to the 1970s, but the stills fell silent in the early 1980s, though they were briefly reactivated for a few batches in the late 1990s. Following that, it seemed the distillery would cease operations entirely. Fortunately, the contemporary whisky boom was just beginning when whiskies from those late 90s runs were released. They were well-received, and the distillery experienced a revival with further production runs in 2011, and then every 3-4 years since. The reason Yalumba doesn't increase production is unclear. The malt was made from heavily roasted Flagship barley (a modern hybrid developed in South Australia) and fermented into wash at Cooper’s Brewery in Adelaide. However, Yalumba's unique advantage is its access to exceptional casks. Having produced outstanding fortified wines and brandy for over a century, this whisky, after initial aging in large refill casks, was matured in octaves that had previously held 50-60 year old fortified wines. 837 bottles were produced. It is a very substantial, sweet whisky, and for those not fond of whiskies matured in fortified wine casks, it might seem excessively saturated with cask character. Personally, I believe it only narrowly avoids being an extreme example, and it's a close call. It's the quality of the casks and the ample soft tannins they impart to balance their sweetness that make this work. I recommend adding water to this whisky, but be cautious, adding only a few drops as it is only 43% ABV and can be easily overwhelmed. Dilution takes the edge off the sweetness and develops some excellent subtle spice notes. Without water, I would rate this at 82/100, but once diluted, it warrants a couple more points. The closest Scottish single malts I can recall are the Benrinnes, Blair Athol, and Dailuaine whiskies from Diageo’s Flora & Fauna range, but this is sweeter and lacks the complexity of those due to its relative youth. I would be eager to taste this whisky if it were transferred to a refill bourbon cask and aged in a stable, cool warehouse for an additional 8 years. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good”: 84/100 (3.75 stars)