Mezcal Vago Arroqueño en Barro by Tío Rey

During a recent visit to Old Town Tequila in San Diego, the manager saw a bottle of Del Maguey Arroqueno in my hand. "If you enjoy that, I have another arroqueno that's superior." Del Maguey is the only arroqueno mezcal I've had (thanks to a sample from a friend), and it's spectacular. So, I was somewhat doubtful, but curious. I expressed my interest to the manager, and he went to the back, returning minutes later with a bottle of Vago Arroqueno en Barro. I'm familiar with Vago, having enjoyed their excellent espadin and elote expressions. So, I purchased it. "Barro" means "mud" or "clay." Here, it refers to the small clay vessels used in distillation, as well as the influence of clay distilling on both the nose and palate, providing a solid foundation of earth and clay notes. The smoke is quite mild for a joven mezcal, but wonderful. The clay and smoke are complemented by notes of agave, tropical fruit, dark fruits, and mint. Everything is exceptionally well-balanced. So, is it better than the Del Maguey? That depends on personal preference. The Del Maguey is bold and powerful, deep and complex. The Vago is rustic, earthy, and far more subtle. While I might be more inclined to repurchase the Del Maguey, the Vago is distinct from any mezcal I've encountered and is exceptional on its own merits. The Vago team is apparently quite meticulous about the entire process, down to the ink used on the labels. Vago employs some labor-intensive and time-consuming distillation methods, and its mezcals are produced in very small batches, typically between 200 and 500 liters. It's a genuine craft endeavor that truly shines.

I had been anticipating this one for quite some time, and thanks to a generous pour shared by a friend, I had the opportunity to try it this evening. A bit about Arroqueno agaves: this is an enormous agave plant that requires 20-30 years to mature before harvesting. So, this context is important: 1. Consider the conservation efforts involved in nurturing something for 20-30 years before it can be harvested. It requires foresight to cut only what is needed and to ensure new plants are growing. 2. Unlike grains like barley, corn, or wheat, which can be cultivated within a single season, this agave takes 20-30 years. This means enduring 20-30 years of challenges from disease, insects, and temperature fluctuations. Many plants will not survive, far from all of them. 3. One more point for perspective: whiskey aged in a cask for 30 years typically costs well over $300-500. This price increases significantly for brands like Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Macallan, or Balvenie. An Arroqueno also requires a similar amount of time before bottling but costs a fraction of the price of such whiskies. Now, regarding this tasting---- I've previously tried the Del Maguey Arroqueno, which I loved. This is a different experience. It's not superior or inferior, just distinct. While the Del Maguey was like a boxer hitting you hard, this one is like a tai chi practitioner – more subtle and delicate, yet equally potent. It all depends on personal preference. This has a grassy, herbal taste with a hint of smoke in the background. Absolutely delightful... personally, I plan to look into purchasing a bottle. Thanks to my friend for this pour—it was a great mezcal.

Smoky yet remarkably smooth, it's earthy without being too mineral-like, possibly a chalky-earthy note. Floral and fruity, though the fruit is somewhat muted. It has a sweet body with hints of caramel, followed by a hot finish that mellows into sweet fruit and jalapeño.