Black Gate BG095 Australian Peated Single Malt

The aroma (neat) begins with subtle, mild grain scents like grist, oatmeal porridge, and barley sugar. Later, a whisper of vanilla, mild oak, and a trace of peat smoke appear. This nose is spirit-forward and very reserved when neat. However, letting the dram rest in the glass works wonders, and its presence grows with time. The initial scents blossom, joined by emerging mint, sweeter barley sugar, anise, and a rich, full aromatic texture. Nose (with water): Adding water softens and mellows the aroma, while also releasing peat smoke. The smoke's strength is not comparable to Ardbeg's, nor is it trying to be. This peating is more akin to what you'd find in Longrow, Glengyle, or Benromach. The scent in the dry glass is a distant bushfire. Palate (neat): Sweet and powerful, with an intense malt and grain arrival, followed by slowly building peat smoke. Notes of burnt grass, digestive biscuits, coffee, and dried dates emerge. It feels firm and almost astringent, with tannins, grapefruit zest, green apple skins, and dark, nearly burnt Anzac biscuits with golden syrup appearing late. This whisky evolves, and its texture is creamy and satisfying. Palate (with water): The palate becomes fuller and sweeter, with peat smoke and menthol interacting with dark cherry preserve, rhubarb tart, sour ginger pickle, and lemon zest. The smoke is more noticeable now. Finish (neat): Long. Spicy malt and restrained tannins fade with moderate peat smoke. When watered, the finish becomes livelier with lingering ginger, bright tannins, and peppermint. Its length is maintained (it actually seemed to increase with dilution), and the aftertaste has a hint of ashy chimney smoke. Many minutes after finishing, the final echo of flavor is sweet, mild peat smoke. This distillery is among the world's smallest. It was established by a married couple in 2009 in a region of country NSW with extreme temperature fluctuations, from below freezing to 40 degrees Celsius in summer. They produce approximately 4,000 liters of spirit yearly from their two small direct-fired pot stills. This particular bottling was distilled in April 2018, matured in an ex-bourbon cask (distillery cask BG095) and bottled in June 2021. Only 355 bottles were produced, and mine is number 239. The peated malt for the expression was sourced from either Bairds or Smiths in Scotland. This is a substantial peated single-cask, cask-strength single malt, yet it also possesses a lighter, more delicate side. At times, the nose seems almost candy-like, and initially, it brought to mind a recently reviewed Ardnamurchan AD/09:22 cask strength, sharing a quality of subtle, unadorned purity. There is heat from the relatively high alcohol content, but it is controlled and pleasant. In fact, the heat becomes more apparent with dilution as spices emerge. Adding a second dilution transforms the whisky into a purring but slightly grumpy kitten; I eventually reduced it to around 25% abv, and it remained potent. How the distiller manages to create a whisky of such power while maintaining a graceful profile, maturing it in small casks in extreme temperatures for just about 2-4 years, is beyond my comprehension. Initially, this distillery produced rum and unpeated single malt whisky, but since 2016, their focus has shifted to heavily peated single malt, although unpeated runs are still occasionally done. Originally, the distiller always used sherry, port, and rum casks for maturation, but recently, bourbon barrels have been used, allowing the distillate character to show through more clearly. I'm undecided as to which I prefer – the immense cask-driven flavor of their sherry expressions or the more focused and clear profile of this one. Regardless of the cask type, every release from this distillery shares the trait of being a unique batch release, unchillfiltered, uncolored, and usually bottled at cask strength from a single cask. There's a consistent distillery signature of grain texture, depth, and richness, but also great variation between batches, and every expression should be listed individually. This distillery is undoubtedly one of my top 5 Australian whisky producers. “Very Good”: 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Nose: A dense, grain-heavy, and somewhat velvety aroma. Intense notes of malty grain, oat porridge, brown sugar, and creamy vanilla are present. It's rich and full, with the high proof somewhat masked by the grain's dominance but still noticeable. After ten minutes, as suggested, a gentle peat smoke and subtle aromatic-herbal character emerges. Palate: As expected – malt. It's a complex and sophisticated malt, possessing the substance of a tea biscuit, the sweetness of barley sugar candy, and the richness of butterscotch. There's an apple tartness with a sticky caramel finish. The peat smoke is warm but subtle, leaving a mentholated, palate-cleansing sensation. Finish: Exceptionally long. Oak tannins offer spice, and the peat smoke is ashy. Menthol and mint provide a powerful, invigorating sensation. Someone was overly generous. A much-appreciated dram, gratefully received. Thanks also for the advice that this needs significant time to open up in the glass and that water is key to unlocking its potential. That's precisely what was done. Nose (with water): A splash of water reveals how concentrated the nose was; everything has expanded, releasing a faint sweet-hay and lanolin scent, the peat is delicate and floral with a hint of anise in the distance. Palate (with water): The peat is now prominent, accompanied by stewed plum spiced with white pepper, ginger, and citrus zest. The malt remains but is lighter, perhaps even darker? Akin to a biscuit baked a little too long. Finish (with water): Largely unchanged, except for the increased salivation from the juicy apple and menthol. Even fifteen minutes later, a slightly ashy, peppery, and freshly grated cinnamon sensation lingers. Initially, this presents as a substantial, seemingly straightforward whisky. Without careful attention and patience, it could easily be underestimated. However, for a high-proof spirit, it possesses a delightful distillate-driven subtlety that belies its alcohol content. A remarkably well-crafted, impeccably clean, and self-assured offering from a small Australian distillery.