Morris Muscat Barrel

Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #1 Aroma: Treacle, raisins, malt extract, toasted nuts, brandy and some musty fortified wine notes. Taste: Fruit cake with citrus peel and seeds. Mocha, fig jam, dried dates, grape jelly, apple and cinnamon pastry, baking spices (nutmeg, cloves, caraway). A little late sweetness and an oaky note towards the end. End: Medium. Fruit, malt spicy sweetness. A sweet aperitif aftertaste. Well, you have to start somewhere so my tasting #1 for this year’s show was the Morris Muscat Barrels expression. This has been around for a couple of years now and I reviewed its core-range stablemate the Signature expression when it was first released. I was not greatly impressed with that one at the time so I’ve been putting off tasting any more Morris whisky, however when it’s free and can function as the first whisky of the day … why not? As it turned out I enjoyed this a great deal more than I expected to, and a lot more than the Signature expression. The definite sulphur I noticed in that whisky was absent here, either that or it was simply masked, but either way I much preferred this dram. It had greater presence and complexity and also seemed to have more maturity. Maybe their range has simply improved over the last two years? I found nothing similar to the official tasting notes here, and as those were written back then perhaps their whisky has changed profile? I guess I should try the Signature again. This is still a trifle young, but no more than a host of other NAS Australian whiskies that are currently available. I enjoyed it enough that I’d maybe buy a bottle some time, and I’ll be interested to see what happens with Morris whisky as their stocks age. “Good”: 83/100 (3.5 stars)

The muscat grape is apparent immediately, contributing abundant fruity, somewhat earthy top notes to the aroma. From the glass, the taste is mellow, full, velvety, and very much like a dessert. Significant muscat sweetness combined with the natural malt creates a wonderful subtly glazed pastry crust character. An excellent after-dinner drink. The finish fades evenly, concluding with a pleasing lasting sweetness. A truly remarkable whisky.

NOSE Jammy dark fruit, dry malt, Honey Nut Cheerios, pastries, a hint of brown sugar, vanilla, and earthiness. The dense fruity profile is dominant, with everything else supporting it. PALATE Jammy dark fruit, dry malt, vanilla candy, Honey Nut Cheerios, pastries, a touch of earthiness, and herbal notes. Fruity, but more earthy, dry, and malty than the aroma suggests. FINISH Medium length, featuring fruit, malt, spice, and some earthy notes.

Aroma: Rich molasses, dates, a papery, powdery baking spice; reminiscent of a light dusting rather than the spice itself. Palate: Delightfully smooth with dried dark fruits that yield to a sweet vanilla bean. An evolving oak presence. Finish: A flowing sweetness of dates and vanilla, with oak arriving in stages as a complement.

Enjoyable, certainly, but excessively sweet.