Roborel de Climens 2016 Finition Merlot du Château Guadet

Nose: Cherry pastry, plum jam, rhubarb tang, gentle baking spices (cinnamon, nutmeg), milk chocolate, and fresh oak cask. A persistent red wine note is present but unobtrusive, forming a core part of the character. Palate: Red berries, red grapes, malted grain. The mouthfeel is pleasant, with moderate density and a silky texture. Spicy notes appear as it develops, along with hints of coconut and milk chocolate. Finish: Medium length. Fruity, spicy, and sophisticated, with refined spice on the lingering taste. Sometimes during a series of tastings, there's a moment of realization, like experiencing Glenfarclas 25 after the 10-year-old, or Laphroaig Lore after Laphroaig Select. That moment occurred for me with the Roborel de Climens whiskies when I tried this third sample. While the initial two expressions were enjoyable, I wouldn't purchase a full bottle of either. However, this whisky represents a significant improvement, displaying greater body, complexity, presence, balance, and overall character. I recall exclaiming, “ah, c'est ça” aloud upon tasting it (prompting a good-natured smile from the French brand ambassador), and it immediately brought Bruichladdich Classic Laddie to mind. This was the first of this producer's whiskies to showcase a noticeable malted barley quality, and despite its sweetness and the rather strong wine finish, it remains balanced. Roborel de Climens is a recently established company in Bordeaux. The proprietor, Aymeric Roborel de Climens, is a seasoned winemaker who has ventured into whisky production. The company is not a distillery but an independent bottler that procures new-make spirit and ages it in carefully selected, high-quality French oak barrels. The aging process has two stages. Initially, new-make spirit (obtained from Distillerie Artisanale HEPP in Uberach, Alsace) is aged in a mix of new and refill French oak casks (approximately 80% are refill casks, also from the HEPP distillery). This stage lasts 3-4 years, providing structure and body to the whisky. Subsequently, the whisky undergoes a finishing period of 6-12 months in ex-wine casks, with each expression being matured in a specific type of cask. This particular expression was finished in ex-merlot casks from Château Guadet, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. The initial maturation period was 4 years (instead of the 3 years for the first two expressions I sampled), and it is bottled at 43% ABV, a difference I found significant compared to the 40% bottling. Tasted at the Sydney Whisky Show on May 15, 2021, this was my 18th tasting from bottle 353 of 700. The listed retail price is $142, but I've seen it available from $120 to $155. At roughly $120, it offers good value and is worth acquiring. I purchased a bottle myself that day. Rating: “Good” - 84/100 (3.75)