Rhum J.M VSOP

Given that my audience primarily consists of whiskey enthusiasts, myself included, I'm writing from that perspective. Here we go! While many of us have a preferred spirit category, such as bourbon, rye, or scotch, we eventually grow tired of it and start exploring other sections of the liquor store. I've been doing just that for the past four or five months, experiencing burnout from pandemic-fueled whiskey consumption. I find myself increasingly drawn to the rum and tequila aisles, where spending $60-$100 can yield some of the most intricate and subtle spirits in those categories, whereas that amount would barely scratch the surface in the single malt world. Foursquare rum (not featured here) is sometimes referred to as a "Bourbon drinker's rum" or "the Pappy of rum." If that analogy holds true, then rhum agricole vieux (literally "aged agricole rhum") could be considered, perhaps boldly, a scotch drinker's rum. Bottled at 43% ABV, it pours a pleasing copper/brass color, almost resembling bourbon. However, the aroma is distinctly different. While barrel notes are present, similar to bourbon, there's a peculiar scent, a mix of freshly cut grass and a newly minted penny (I recall frequent school trips to the US Mint during my childhood in Denver). The initial taste is reminiscent of a barrel-aged Speyside or Highland single malt scotch. It enters smoothly with some upfront barrel character (evoking Compass Box Spice Tree), but quickly transitions into something quite distinct, with the grassy notes from the nose reappearing alongside hints of pineapple, light tobacco, and pecan. Baking spices like ginger and allspice complete the palate, leaving a subtle tingling sensation that coats the tongue, bringing back memories of the grassy, brassy agricole essence. This particular bottling is the mid-tier offering in the Rhum J.M. core sipping range, following the French brandy producer's labeling system. I anticipate the V.O. expression might reduce the barrel influence and enhance the grassy agricole notes, while the X.O. might do the opposite. I'm eager to try both. I purchased this one cautiously, unsure of my preference, and didn't want to invest $75 in the X.O. without knowing if I'd enjoy it – a concern that thankfully proved unfounded! If you're exploring rum or rhum, and you appreciate single malt scotch or wheated bourbons, definitely consider trying aged agricole rhum. Cheers!

Nose: Smells like maple, burnt sugar, cooked banana, and orange liquor. There's a scent of aged oak cask, much like some armagnacs. Also notes of roasted coffee, rye spices (fennel, eucalyptus), toffee, and a hint of gentian. Underlying the main scents is a grassy herbal quality common to rhum agricole, though it's well hidden by excellent barrel scents. At first, you might easily think this is a rye or a bourbon with a lot of rye. Palate: Sweet and herbal upon entry. Spices again, like rye or some bourbons, but then it changes. As it develops, the rhum agricole core emerges – cinnamon, clove, ginger, caraway, and anise, followed by sage and bitter herbal notes. You can imagine green cane stalks, swaying in the background. The texture is rich but not syrupy; quite dry but not tannic, with an herbal astringency. Finish: Lingering. Oaky, spicy, and just a touch briny. Your initial smell might easily lead you to believe it's a slightly different bourbon, but the more you experience it, the more it seems like rye, and eventually, not a whiskey at all. The palate transitions even faster through similar impressions, starting with familiar whiskey notes but quickly moving into dry, spicy rum territory. There's a subtle smoky character to the profile, but I've had this rhum before, some years back, and it was much more noticeable then. This current batch, while less smoky, has more barrel tannin. I really like this, as I particularly dislike overly sweet rum, and this is the complete opposite. It's not quite as engaging as aged, high-ester Jamaican or Trinidad rums, nor as smoothly balanced as anything from Foursquare. However, it possesses a fine, dry, and spicy aged agricole character. Just a heads-up: if you're new to agricole rhum and prefer sweeter profiles like Appleton, or balanced ones like Foursquare, or the very syrupy sweetness of Diplomatico or Zacapa, you'll likely not enjoy this at all. "Very Good": 86/100 (4 stars)

The aroma has notes of caramel, a touch of fireworks, and honey with a hint of lemon. You can also detect caramel and a bit of cinnamon on the nose. The caramel is a little too subtle and sweet, but otherwise, the flavor profile is quite cohesive. The richness is very pleasant, complemented by a suitable amount of smoke. There's an appealing subtle orange and mild red fruit note. This would be an excellent selection for scotch enthusiasts. Cocoa also makes a welcome appearance. The smoke might be too intense for many, but the sweetness balances it well. Cinnamon flavor is present, along with a significant amount of pepper. There may be a faint grassy quality, but it's minimal and there's no vegetal character. It's decadent and highly enjoyable. The alcohol might be a bit too sharp, and while the complexity and depth could be enhanced, it's still quite good. A mild lemon note is perceptible on the palate. It's rich and reasonably complex, with a slight tartness. It possesses a reposado-like complexity and richness without being overly potent. Spicy cinnamon and clove notes combine with cherry, reminiscent of Cognac, although the smoke is more pronounced than in Cognac. There's a pleasantly bitter and aromatic herbal quality.

The VSOP doesn't appear to have an age statement. The website claims it's aged for 3 years, then allowed to rest for an extra year in various barrels, and is then combined before bottling. It comes across as more intense, with significantly more depth and richness than the VO. This feels like a continuation of the improvements noted when going from the Gold to the VO, but with added layers of complexity. It's a truly enjoyable sipping rum. However, I'd also happily use it in a Ti' Punch.

Nose: vanilla, exotic fruits, sweet spices, vegetal notes, a touch of alcohol (needs aeration to clear). Palate: wood, vegetal notes, cinnamon, possesses some body, ginger, slightly stronger than expected for 43%. Finish: spicy, very long, sweet with a hint of smoke, some grassy notes in the background, slightly dry.

It's acceptable. It has the characteristic funkiness of agricole rum. The nose is not very expressive, with only faint fruit notes barely perceptible through the alcohol. On the palate, it's not particularly sweet and has strong herbal notes. I would skip this one.