Old Pulteney 17 Year

It represents the pinnacle of whisky creation and the nadir of whisky times! We have distilleries producing amazing spirits at great values, like Deanston, Bunnahabhain, and Talisker. Meanwhile, others that once produced legendary drams are losing their touch, such as certain distilleries that used to make iconic whiskies, Balblair, Highland Park, and Old Pulteney... Old Pulteney: An aged, somewhat neglected distillery in northern Scotland with an unusual name that I overlooked when I started my recent whisky exploration, despite some critics naming their expressions 'whisky of the year.' Its emblem resembled old spice cologne (!?!). I sought out specific whiskies because all the reviews and 'everyone' stated they were exceptional. A must-have! A'bunadh and GlenDronach... Highland Park... Springbank, etc. But then I began discovering the overlooked gems that were almost secretly admired, like Kavalan Solist, Famous Grouse 18, and Balblair 1990... and these were incredible whiskies! However, I kept encountering mentions and whispers about Old Pulteney 17. That peculiar-sounding distillery from Wick. I heard it was discontinued and managed to acquire two bottles at a reasonable cost, which I then aged for nine months. After some time, I obtained a sample of Old Pulteney 12 from overseas. It was time to break out that OP17 everyone raves about (salty! sweet! lemon curd!) and compare. The OP12 was unremarkable, very thin – the 40% ABV from Europe hindered it... so I move to the OP17 and OH MY F#CKING GOD... it's astonishing!!! Wow. The mouthfeel. So rich and coating! Delicious. Old Pulteney, this small, old distillery, quietly crafting some of the finest whisky globally. But NOT nearly enough of it! I am still relatively new to whisky and suffer from allergies, often experiencing some level of nasal congestion, so my scent and taste perceptions are always somewhat muted. I aim to highlight the dominant aromas and flavors, the broad characteristics... Aroma: baking spices, cinnamon, light fruit – possibly citrus transitioning to floral. Palate: Sweet, rich, and semi-viscous. A bit spicy. Coats the mouth. Lemon, vanilla, and a touch of brine. Mellow and refined. Finish: Medium, with baking spices and a creamy texture. This whisky truly delivered magnificently. It's now among my favorites, alongside Balblair 1990, Benrinnes, (good) Edradour, and Talisker. Completely unique: I can't think of any other whisky quite like it. I was devastated because people were praising the OP21, and I couldn't find any (at a reasonable price). I did, however, manage to get a few more bottles of the OP17. I adore this malt. I haven't sampled the current range of Old Pulteney, but it doesn't sound promising. Regardless, I finally grasp what everyone was discussing. Even though some distilleries are producing exceptional whisky, perhaps their finest ever, I can't help but lament the overall trend in whisky becoming more expensive for diminished quality. I've only been consuming whisky for about two years, and I feel like I've missed out on so much. This superb Old Pulteney 17 is essentially gone now, as is the 21, and the world is worse off for it. So many excellent whiskies at fair prices are vanishing around us daily. Many already long gone... alas. Six months later, I managed to obtain a bottle of OP21! It differs from the 17 but is also exceptionally good! A review for another time, perhaps. "This is what you desire, isn't it? Observe it. The last of its kind. Much like you and I. If you annihilate it, its lineage will be lost to the world forever..." -Prince Nuada (Hellboy 2: The Golden Army)

I've encountered numerous favorable assessments of this spirit. Consequently, upon learning it was discontinued to make way for a new core range, I felt compelled to try it. I'm fond of the older 12 year expression, and the Navigator is also quite good. Let's discover the capabilities of this retired standout. Nose: Dominated by fruit. Apple, plum, honeydew, banana, pear, apricot, pineapple juice, and some freshly squeezed lemon. Vanilla, toffee, honey, marshmallow, and notes of malty cereal. Almond, walnut, and cashew. Cinnamon and sea salt. Clove and nutmeg. Oak. This is classic Pulteney, a superb example of a briny, coastal Highlander. A promising start. Palate: A strong presence of sea salt leads the way. Accompanied by cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and oak. Caramel and milk chocolate. Salt water taffy. Malt, honey, vanilla, marshmallow, and toffee. More apple, pear, plum, apricot, pineapple, peach, banana, and a touch of tart cranberry. It closely resembles the aroma, with the spice notes appearing first and the fruit flavors following. It's exceptional regardless of the order. Finish: Pineapple, apple, pear, apricot, orange, and plum. Following the initial burst of fruit, there's a significant impact of sea salt and cinnamon, which were present throughout. Additions of black pepper and oak. And lemon citrus. Then, notes reminiscent of a banana-strawberry smoothie emerge before this medium-long finish. I'm uncertain if the extra five years, the inclusion of sherry cask influence, or the 6% ABV increase is responsible, but something remarkable is occurring here. I haven't encountered anything quite like it. It uniquely combines many characteristics I've never experienced in a single whisky. I see no justification for its discontinuation and every reason to retain it. The new 15 and 18 year expressions (which are the closest equivalents in the new lineup based on price point) had better be truly sensational to warrant their existence. Otherwise, Pulteney has made a significant misstep with the overhaul of their core range. This is among the finest mainland Scottish malts I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. After trying this, I am actively seeking the Old Pulteney 21. As for this one, secure a bottle before it disappears entirely.

Closing out my reviews with this one - a whisky that's a bit lighter and, frankly, simpler to assess. Nose: vanilla, sea salt, and pleasant oak. A faint hint of berry or fruit, likely from well-used sherry barrels. Also, a touch of waxy vanilla, not like Clynelish, but more of a subdued, earthy vanilla. I almost detect a juicy fruit character, though not precisely that note. Palate: I get vanilla, oak, and a hint of salt (more pronounced on the nose). Having sampled some Springbank, it's satisfying to experience a clear expression of saltiness, as I was beginning to wonder if it was peated. Yes, there's a distinction between saltiness and light peat, and this expression clarifies that for me. A light green apple appears on the finish, along with savory, earthy tones. If I had to sum it up, it involves a lot of discussion around vanilla, clean, yet salty. I don't usually encounter a clean malt flavor with salt, but that's somewhat what makes Old Pulteney so good. The one point I keep returning to is that I believe the older 12-year-old at 43% ABV was a superior whisky, I know, surprising. This one is more complex, with a longer finish, but man, I miss the caramel and vanilla ice cream with cookie dough notes from the 12-year-old. It's truly unfortunate this will no longer be produced, along with the *real* 12-year-old. I genuinely appreciate the distillery's recent efforts, but it's just a shame we're likely to witness a drop in quality and a rise in price. Anyway, 2.25 stars. A slightly higher score than the 12-year-old because the age and finish are superior here. Still, if I could find the 12-year-old, even disregarding cost (and this bottle is $90 more than the last 12-year-old I purchased), I would likely still opt for the 12-year-old. However, whisky quality transcends personal preference, and in this regard, the 17-year-old is a better-crafted product. I do wonder, though, if I received an off bottle, as a sample of this a while back completely blew me away. I'm about a quarter of the way through this bottle, and it hasn't come close to what I recall from that sample. So, apologies if this turns out to be a dud and I've undervalued this bottle; that sample would have likely earned a 3.25.

Bottled in 2015. Time for a side-by-side tasting of two older Old Pulteney expressions: the 17 and 21! Some whisky enthusiasts consider the OP 17 to be one of the finest whiskies of its era. Personally, I don't find it nearly that exceptional. It was, or is, very reasonably priced, which is enough to make a scotch a favorite these days. This is simply a well-made single malt. If you dislike this, you probably don't like scotch. It exemplifies a whisky where the spirit and cask characteristics are in perfect harmony. I believe Arran 14 has now taken that place as the prime example, especially since this one is discontinued. The nose offers butterscotch and vanilla, with just the right amount of salt and herbs. The palate is initially fruity and floral, but the intensity is subdued, balanced by the maltiness. There is absolutely no smoke. This is a scotch that demonstrates to newcomers what the excitement around scotch is all about; it's not about a Macallan sherry bomb or a Laphroaig peat monster. Despite the accolades, this is an unmemorable scotch. I feel incredibly fortunate to be able to say that! However, I've discovered numerous comparable whiskies that are cheaper and/or younger, yet perfectly illustrate quintessential scotch character and that ideal balance between cask and spirit. I already mentioned Arran 14; however, Mortlach 16 and Craigellachie 13 also serve as excellent examples. This suggests that OP likely used relatively dormant, aged casks for aging this 17-year-old, and it could have possessed more vibrancy with a younger age and more active casks. The OP 21 is an entirely different entity, several classes above the 17. Score: 0 (forgettable) Bottle Cost: Discontinued since 2017, but still available on shelves in my area for $100-130. Perceived Value: $100

Two tasting days back to the back for me, though I planned it somewhat. Started with the Old Pulteney 21 and finished with the Old Pulteney 17. Its color is a pale amber-yellow, resembling apple juice. The aroma starts with fresh diced apples, pears, and peaches in a sugary syrup. As it sits, sweet notes of butterscotch, honey, and vanilla emerge. Hints of sawdust, berries, and sweetened, ripe plums, along with a touch of sea salt, are also present. This is a sweet and fruity pour. The light body carries the same profile as the nose: vanilla, butterscotch, honey, Granny Smith apples, pears, lemons, and berries. There's a spicy character from cinnamon and nutmeg, creating a tingling sensation like ginger snaps. The finish is medium-long, with an oaky-dry character, wood spice, vanilla cream, lemon zest, and ground cinnamon, finishing with a slight deep warmth. As usual, adding a bit of water smooths it out and enhances the sweetness. Imagine yourself on a boat in an orchard by the sea. Ha. This is a perfect drink for summer or early fall. The nose sets up the taste, and the finish gently leads you to a happy conclusion. It's not as deep and rich as the 21-year-old sibling, but it holds its own. Sadly, like many fine drams, this one is disappearing. Old Pulteney is a favorite of mine, particularly the original lineup. I truly hope the replacements are just as good. [90/100][$107][Tasted: 2/29/20]

Regrettably, this expression, along with the 21yo, has been officially removed from the distillery's core lineup. They've kept the 12yr old, which consistently offers great value, but the 17yo and 21yo have been replaced by a 15yo and an 18yo that I've yet to sample. The 17yo is genuinely one of the finest relatively accessible whiskies I have ever experienced. It elevates all the characteristic honey, sea salt, and fruit notes expected from this distillery to a more intense level, presented with a craft style. Its aroma is exceptional - fresh fruit, honey, apple, pineapple, sea salt, floral notes (seriously, who's going to clean up all these darn flowers?) and citrus. The taste is outstanding - spicy fruit, honey, vanilla, green apple, a hint of bitter fruit rind, pineapple, burnt sugar, sea salt, seaweed, and a very subtle smoke. Simply excellent and packed with flavor. The finish is predominantly long, featuring spice, tart apple, honey, salt, and light seaweed. Did anyone catch my reference to Coming to America above? As this has been discontinued, you likely won't find it cheaply. I typically purchased it for around $100. Some local shops still have stock and are selling it for approximately $120. Whatever the price, I recommend acquiring a bottle if you can afford it. For those new to this distillery, the 12yo is always a solid starting point at a reasonable cost. If you appreciate the 12, you should definitely try the 17. The increase in price is justified. Overall Rating – A