At what point does age become excessive? While I've only sampled a few American whiskeys over fifteen years old, I've learned this: if left in the barrel too long, our domestic spirits can develop excessive oakiness, dryness, tannic qualities, and even astringency. A reviewer recently described this phenomenon well in their tasting notes for Rhetoric 23. The background for this bottling is that the distillery managed to acquire numerous barrels of an 18-year-old whiskey, which was distilled and aged in Kentucky in previously used bourbon casks. This particular bottle was presented without finishing, but a significant number of finished versions are slated for release, featuring finishing options from ice wine to agricole rum. The aroma is as expected, though certainly less vibrant than that of younger spirits – hints of maple sweetness, leather, corn, and vanilla. However, the palate tells a different story. It's dominated by an overwhelming oak presence that starts out relatively mild but becomes progressively harsher, sharper, and drier. Typical American whiskey flavors such as caramel, vanilla, and cherry are absent, and any spice has been subdued by time. The finish is somewhat astringent and rather brief. My conclusion? In my view, this whiskey would have benefited from being removed from the barrel considerably earlier than 18 years. My frame of reference is limited, so others might find it to be a fine representation of an aged whiskey. Interestingly, my experiences with the few older bourbons I've tried have been quite different and more satisfying. Elijah Craig 18 comes to mind, as does Rhetoric 24, which leans towards the oaky, tannic profile, but not to this extreme. It has made me wonder if the use of a used barrel, rather than a new one, accelerated the effects of aging. Perhaps the finished versions will be superior, with the added finishing notes providing a much-needed counterpoint. However, I remain skeptical – finishing can only do so much, and I doubt anything will sufficiently tame the oak. This marks my first disappointment with anything the brand has produced, but my overall experience with them remains excellent. The positive outcome is that I won't spend the rest of the year deliberating between purchasing more of the 18-year-old whiskeys or the brand's upcoming bourbon releases.
Barrell Whiskey Single Barrel A110
2.75 Mixed reviews
Whiskey American Whiskey Kentucky 18 years 57.9% ABV
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