Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 Year Batch 1 (2019)

A bittersweet discovery today. Recently, a highly respected individual in the Ohio/Kentucky whisky scene lost their job, and frankly, I'm a bit upset about it. However, with a release like this, it's bound to sell out quickly. Best to secure my bottle and forgo other options later. Putting those sour feelings aside, Traigh Bhan is the dram I've most anticipated this year. Let's dive in. Nose - Okay, full disclosure, the tasting notes for this whisky are spot-on for me. Right away, without much swirling, I detect a common theme of a sweet cigar and light smoke. Not particularly special, I know. However, it is quite smoky for its 19 years of age. Once it opens up slightly, notes of lemon-lime with a strong lime presence appear. This is, of course, a classic Ardbeg characteristic. Then, I get what might be smoked pineapple. Taste - More of the lemon, along with some sour and bitter pineapple notes. There are spicy elements; a real hot spice here that I don't often encounter in Ardbeg. The smoke is a bit refined but still has some impact. Anyone concerned that 19 years might diminish the smoke too much will likely be impressed. It's very fruity, spicy, and I can detect hints of chocolate. My initial impression was that it felt a bit thin, but upon second thought, perhaps not. I can't tell if there are some sherry casks involved or what Ardbeg is doing. I don't think this is exclusively bourbon-matured, but I can't identify the other casks. The spice makes me suspect European oak, but the chocolate note and some of the sweetness strongly suggest Oloroso (though European oak is unlikely in that case). Adding water actually reduces the lime and brings out more sherry notes. $299.99 USD retail versus 169 pounds. It's no wonder it sold out in the UK; they're ripping off the rest of the world, and it's unsurprising that Americans are snapping it up from over there. This pricing is absolutely absurd and harms the domestic market, even if it seems like a favor on the surface. But setting the price aside, should you buy it? Yes. This is an absolutely outstanding whisky. Should you get a second bottle? That's where the price point makes me hesitate. I can't imagine buying a backup at $300. $300 is at the very, very high end of my usual budget, and I suspect most people don't want to spend that much ever. It's overpriced, but it's just so incredibly good. 4 stars; this is exceptional without reaching the truly rare and special categories.

Ardbeg and Macallan generate intense fan loyalty, leading to some of the most extreme pricing in the single malt market. Sadly, those prices make their masterful expressions inaccessible to the typical consumer, including this modest whisky enthusiast. Nevertheless, I was fortunate to sample this $300-400 bottle at a recent tasting featuring its sister brand, Glenmorangie. In contrast to its Islay neighbors, Laphroaig and Lagavulin, Ardbeg's malt typically presents as "heavy." It's dense and oily, an effect amplified when aged in sherry casks, which deepen and enrich the fruit notes inherent in the distillate. What it shares with those other distilleries is that it reaches peak balance and complexity in its mid-to-late teens, so the team made a wise decision by setting this new permanent lineup addition at 19 years old. At this age, the smoke has mellowed enough not to aggressively assault the palate, instead harmonizing flavors of long-steeped tea, cedar woodsmoke, and barbecue char in an captivating blend. This whisky also prominently features notes of brown sugar, caramel, and dark chocolate. It's an overly elaborate, Michelin-star restaurant dessert of a dram, and one of my favorite Ardbegs. While a direct comparison is difficult, Lagavulin Distiller's Edition offers a similar profile and is close in age (around 17 years), for approximately $200 less. Given the exorbitant pricing, I must deduct about half a star for this bottle.

As saline and pungent as the scent of an Ardbeg should be, with a viscosity and fullness like an oil lamp on the prow of a ship sailing the ocean, accompanied by cloves, orange, chocolate, licorice, vanilla, and coconut. There's also a distinct woody element, with pine needles and damp wood, resin, to which a touch of leather is added. Everything is well-balanced and harmonious, potent. Silky on the palate, it glides, leaving an almost chewable film on the tongue. The sweetness caresses it with a sugary and caramelized profile, but make no mistake, the peat is very present, moist and rich, with the acrid smoke that stings the mouth's lining. Licorice and chocolate sit together, countered by leather soaked in ocean spray, with citrus fruits (orange, but also a hint of lemon zest) in the background. In the finish, damp bonfire wood has some car tires thrown on it, just to liven things up, with the peat still vibrant despite the whisky's considerable age. More coconut in the background. Moss. Complex and layered. A finish that lingers in the mouth for a long time, with ash, ocean, chocolate, orange, leather... even the empty glass recalls the flavors just experienced. Rich and full without being overwhelming, age has greatly benefited this Ardbeg, confirming its recognizable spirit, albeit reflective. The strength has been softened by time but not diminished. The aromas are well-balanced, the alcohol content very integrated. It demands attention and contemplation; strangely, it's a meditative Ardbeg.

The aroma isn't very potent, though some smoke is noticeable - not intensely peaty, but present. It doesn't seem particularly sweet, but it does have light fruity scents and a hint of mild bitter herbs. The palate is rich and full, starting with smoke, peat, and fruit. The fruit is somewhat difficult to identify, but I believe it tastes similar to apricot - distinctly different from the pineapple mentioned. It's sweet, yet balanced and rich. This is much closer in quality to a specific past release than to another, though it tastes more like the latter, with beautiful fruity richness that elevates it. I can see where the chili note comes into play, adding a fitting spiciness and slight harshness. Dark chocolate blends well with the chili. The spices are balanced, including a touch of cinnamon, some black pepper, and moderate clove contributing to soft tannins. There might be some peat, but it avoids tasting unpleasant. This is an excellent whiskey by any measure. I truly hope it's not prohibitively expensive because I would like to own a bottle. The chocolatey finish is very pleasing. This is a truly enjoyable drink. I will declare this my favorite Ardbeg release. It's that good, but unfortunately, the price is far too high.

Nose: Fruit pits, white pepper, saltiness. A substantial peat with lovely wisps of smoke. Wood, vanilla, frosting. Oregano, basil. Black and green olives. Lemon oil, wintergreen. Charred poblanos. Bell peppers. Intricate and unified. Clearly Ardbeg. Palate: Vanilla, wood, ash, peat. Frosting - powdered sugar and cream. Tannic, with slight bitterness. Toasted wood. Toasted grains with honey. Herbal and vegetal - tarry rope comes to mind. This gets into both Laphroaig and Lagavulin territory for me - some campfire ash and char notes as well as deep, rich, meaty character. The casks are on display, but in the best way possible. Finish begins with a bright, ashy kick alongside plums, figs, and vanilla. Slowly the fruit morphs into bananas, kiwis, and mangoes. Eventually everything settles into a honeyed toasted wheat bread, ash, brine, and light perfume. Other notes: This is my second glass of this and I'm not mad. This is Ardbeg at full tilt - the phenolic, complex, rich beast I've come to expect. A beautiful glass and one I believe everybody should experience.

Nose: Gentle smoke, salt, cloves, nectarines, lemon. Refreshing! Invigorating! Palate: Dark mint chocolate with a sprinkle of chili, a hint of pineapple, a juicy salmon from the barbecue; the smoke is very well-balanced and integrated. The flavors lean more towards bourbon influence than sherry - I'd estimate the casks are 80% bourbon. Finish: Creamy, dark chocolate, plum, menthol smoke, concluding dry and slightly tangy. Elegant and sophisticated, this tastes like it was bottled on a cool summer evening rather than during a storm, as the bottle suggests. It's recognizably Ardbeg yet distinct from the rest of the core range. While it faces the same challenge as every Ardbeg release that needs to justify its existence against the 10 and Uigeadail, it's a much stronger contender than An Oa, the last permanent addition to the range. I'm not sure I could advise buying a whole bottle at this price, but it's definitely worth sharing one with a friend. A great start to the new whisky season.