Kilchoman Loch Gorm (2018 Edition)

Kilchoman Masterclass at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #4 Nose: Less floral than Kilchomans aged in bourbon wood, this nose presents dark fruits balanced by a well-rounded and spicy bonfire peat aroma with a hint of cigar smoke. Rich nutty scents and raisins and chocolate contribute facets of oloroso sherry. There's an earthiness present, but the 2018 bottling is less maritime than previous versions – the bonfire has moved from the beach to the farmyard. Palate: A rich, smooth, full, and rounded arrival with good equilibrium between the primary components. Warm smoke, pipe tobacco, dark cherries, hazelnuts, dark chocolate, and raisins – almost like a wood-smoked fruit 'n nut chocolate bar! It evokes fruitcake. The palate has good depth with notes unfolding over time, and the texture is luscious and slightly oily. Finish: Medium to long. Smoke and chocolate notes linger into a mouth-watering aftertaste, with subtle hints of oloroso sherry and hot spices right to the end. Adding water makes very little difference to the nose but significantly increases the spice on the palate – clove, black pepper, and cayenne all appear. However, it thins the texture, and the whisky suffers overall from dilution. Best enjoyed neat. This Loch Gorm is a rounded and well-integrated whisky, differing slightly from prior releases. Notably, it has only a trace of maritime character and seems less impactful overall than in previous years. However, one could argue it has gained subtlety, and it remains worth the purchase price. 'Very Good': 87/100 (4.25 stars)

I seldom find myself in significant disagreement with reviewers, but in this instance, I cannot fathom we sampled the same whiskey. I photographed the bottle at the bar, and I can confirm it was the 2018. However, my experience aligned more closely with the review of the 2017. In any event... This was the second of three whiskeys I tried at the excellent Flatiron Room in Manhattan. As I've been expanding my home collection, I consistently question whether a sampled whiskey is something I'd want to acquire. Of the three Kilchomans I had tasted before Loch Gorm, both Machir Bay and Sanaig were pleasant but fell slightly short. The 2008, however, made the cut. Loch Gorm is definitely a contender for purchase. It is bold, peaty, and reasonably complex. While the flavor profile is similar to the 2008, the 2008 seems to operate at a moderate volume level, whereas the Loch Gorm is turned up to eight or nine.

Comparing the 2018 to the 2019 head-to-head, which one is superior? It might not be a completely fair comparison, as the 2019 bottle has been open for months, while the 2018 sample was only opened for an hour. Water was added to the 2018, but not the 2019. The 2019 presents as a lighter, creamier dram even without water. The 2018 is a bit rougher with more bite, not quite as well integrated with the alcohol. It does seem to offer more distinct flavors than the 2019, possibly because the latter has been open for an extended period. I appreciate different aspects of both, but I would say the 2019 is my preference at 4.25, with the 2018 at 3.75 to 4. It was close, but not quite a winner (unfortunately for me!).

Nose - Bananas, cinnamon, dark fruit, sherry, overall quite sweet with a hint of campfire. Palate - Starts mellow and then intensifies. Notes of straw, honey, earthiness with a pleasant amount of peat smoke. Full-bodied and well-balanced. Finish - A nice medium length. The warmth fades, leaving a lingering raisin tobacco note.

A pronounced nutty sherry aroma on the nose, but surprisingly lacking in body on the palate. With time, flavors of dried fruit and crème brûlée topping emerge. It's delicious, but a step below the Sanaig's combination of sherry and bourbon cask influences.

Peat is noticeable on the smell. Although it's a sherry cask, you'd struggle to tell from the taste. It's a standard, moderately peaty Islay.