The Cally 40 Year (2015 Special Release)

As a farewell to a long-standing friend, I decided to open this 40-year-old Caledonian, bottled by Diageo in their 2015 special release, originally priced at $1400. For such a high price, one would expect premium presentation; however, Diageo chose a basic clear glass bottle with a unique label, inside a large cardboard box with ill-fitting ribbons and a small booklet about the Caledonian distillery. Given the price, underwhelming packaging, and the knowledge that 40+ year Caledonians are available from independent bottlers for under $400 in a nice wooden box, these bottles have remained unsold for six years. I can only imagine this bottle sat by, watching customers pass it by, until the price was drastically reduced by $900 to $500, prompting me to buy it to help the store clear out a lingering item, based on a positive previous experience with an independent bottled single cask Caledonian. Hopefully, this blended version from Diageo is worth the $500. The aroma begins with floral notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom, followed by a mix of grain and fruit, resembling Apple Jacks cereal, peach ring candy, and lemon gum drops, then roasted macadamia nuts and vanilla gelato, accompanied by very subtle oak spices like whole cinnamon stick, dill, and freshly fallen autumn leaves on a hiking trail, with no alcohol burn. The taste starts with a honeycomb-like waxy mouthfeel that coats the palate, beginning with floral notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom, then fruit notes of apple jolly rancher, caramelized peaches over vanilla gelato, lemon head candy, followed by roasted macadamia nuts, then hints of dill and lightly steeped black tea that gradually fades into the scent of an antique leather armchair with a mild alcohol burn. The finish is long, featuring honeysuckle, orange blossom, roasted macadamia nuts, vanilla crème brûlée, mandarin orange slices, peach rings, and antique leather armchair, lingering for minutes. This is an exceptional whisky that has aged well over 40 years in casks, starting with an aromatic blend of florals, toasted grain, candied citrus fruits, nuts, and mild oak that carries through to the palate, though the balance is slightly off, leaning towards a mild bitterness mid-palate before resolving into the long finish that recalls the pleasant aromas and lasts for minutes. Considering the cost, I anticipated it would surpass my previous experience with an independent bottled single cask Caledonian, but the single cask offered better flavor integration with no bitterness and cost less than $400. It might improve with age, but currently, it's not superior to whiskies available for under $200.

Celebrating the end of Lent with a 40-year-old whisky. The nose is intensely sweet, with notes of brown sugar, butterscotch, candle wax with a burnt wick, and aged varnished furniture. The palate mirrors the nose, with added baking spices and old oak leading into the finish. I tasted this before the Glenglassaugh Sandend, and the difference in quality was quite striking. While I genuinely enjoyed the Sandend, the prominent aged oak notes here were exceptional. My only minor quibble is that I expected it to be even more complex than it was. Nevertheless, experiencing a whisky in its 40s for the first time was a sublime event and a perfect way to conclude Lent. Many thanks to a friend for the opportunity to try this.

This was the second sample during our online tasting this evening (a gift from a friend). An amazing pour — its true beauty is in the aroma. Peaches, plums… abundant stone fruits. I could have spent all day just smelling it. Honestly, it could be used as a fragrance. It would smell great in the bottle, but wearing it would likely lead to a conversation with HR about smelling intoxicated all day. This is refined. Like silk, infused with vanilla and peaches. Given that it's from a major producer and a Special Release, and costs over $1200, which is more than two car payments for a month, I would have been upset if it wasn't elegant. Easily, the best grain whiskey I have ever had. Thanks to a friend for the generous sample!

The belief is that 30 years marks the point where single grain spirits become truly enjoyable, and this is my initial experience in that age range. The aroma is gentle, agreeable, slightly floral, with some fruit, custard, syrup, and just a whisper of parsley. The taste is somewhat sweet, with creme brulee, cinnamon, baked apple, and a touch of dill, oak, and spice on the finish. The bready character found in younger (around 25 years) grain spirits is absent, making this an overall satisfying drink. Perhaps I will explore more 30+ year single grains if the opportunity arises. Gratitude to a friend for the sample.

This single grain is very smooth. While I'm unsure about the 40-year age statement, I'd suggest a Highland Park of similar age.