Matsui Mizunara Cask

--- Second review after 3 months and with 1/4 bottle remaining --- Subtitle: Mr Hyde has truly become Dr Jekyll It's well-understood that as time passes after a whisky bottle is opened and the liquid level drops, the aroma and flavor of the spirit can evolve. The reasons are debated, with some attributing it to oxidation and others to dissipation. In the case of this Matsui Mizunara, one might even consider it a near-spontaneous transformation. Just as Blackened Whiskey can be rapidly aged using Metallica's "black noise" sounds in "black brandy" barrels, why not near-spontaneous transmutation? Returning to the matter at hand, the seal on the Matsui Mizunara Cask was opened not long ago, and my initial review was posted. Three months and three-quarters of the bottle consumed later, this whisky is no longer the harsh, ethanol-driven, bitter letdown it initially presented as. Hence, this second evaluation. The aroma has become refined and complex. Perfumed scents of jasmine and lemon blossoms are prominent, intertwined with a core of new oak wood. Further investigation reveals notes of sandalwood, toasted malt, and a subtle herbal incense reminiscent of sage and heather. The initial taste is still intense but more manageable and even inviting; without this intensity, the accompanying astringency would have been overwhelming. As it is, the brief, hot, and tart discomfort merely serves to emphasize the palate's swift development into a rich lemon meringue pie, complete with elderflower-infused honey drizzled over its lightly browned, airy topping. A remarkable flavor. Following this development and as the liquid is consumed, winter spices like cinnamon and nutmeg emerge at the back of the palate. A final burst of black pepper provides a second, polite, indication of the whisky's 48% ABV, leading to a leggy finish. More of those winter spices and white pepper heat are present now, but the bitter oak tannins from earlier tastings have receded enough for the back of the throat to experience a final gentle burn from the alcohol, which has a curious limoncello-like flavor. This earns a full star increase from the distiller. Well done, Matsui Mizunara; patience pays off, but unfortunately, at your price point, you won't be considered for future purchases. Final thought: This whisky received a double gold award at the 2019 San Francisco World Spirits Competition and was recognized in the Jim Murray Whisky Bible 2020. Did those judges also sample a dram from a quarter-full bottle?

A good offering from the Kirayoshi Distillery, this Matsui Mizunara Cask has won the double gold in San Francisco's World Spirits Competition, and usually when a spirit wins prizes, it might not be as good as it claims. I believe this is a nice spirit but nothing too memorable. The bottle has a famous painting as its label, it is one of the "36 views of Mount Fuji" made by Katsushika Hokusai between 1831 and 1833, and it shows the "Manchurian Crane" which is a very rare bird. Bottled at 48%abv, amber color. On the nose, very tropical... maybe unexpected. Pineapples, apples, tropical fruits, white wine, bananas, apricot, maraschino cherries. After the first sip, it revealed pears, vanilla. On the palate, a little straightforward. Very fancy toffee, apple, pepper and cinnamon. It gets dimmer and watery as you sip it more, not nice for it to lose flavor. Aftertaste its a little mineral, feels rocky. Also apples, like cider; pears and pepper. Overall this is a very fresh spirit. Very fruity. It is easy to enjoy and very easy for a 48%abv dram, no alcohol whatsoever. I get that this will be great for most people but it is a little boring. I just did not get the Japanese profile on this one. My score for it is a fair 85 over 100.

Nose: Fresh, with notes of vanilla, apples, and pears. Very noticeable fresh oak, likely from the Mizunara imparting a very fresh wood flavor. Palate: Woody, quite spicy, with chocolate and strong citrus, particularly orange. It resembles candied orange peels coated in chocolate. Finish: Medium-short with an orange note. This offers a flavor profile unexpected from a Japanese whisky, which is typically flawless and thus predictable. It's very good and complex. Score: 4.50

--- One of two reviews. This one is from the initial pour --- This Matsui is a very pale spirit with a light, floral aroma dominated by sour notes. There's a subtle hint of oak in the background, but the expected sandalwood and Japanese herbal incense, typical of mizunara aging, are practically non-existent. Palate: This is a young spirit, indicated by bursts of hot pepper and intensely bitter spices. It lacks the smooth coconut and rich spice notes usually found in spirits with a longer mizunara maturation period. The finish, though brief, is intense; more hot pepper and bitter oak notes, concluding with a taste like dry paper. Overall, an intriguing spirit to try as it deviates from typical Japanese single malts. It could benefit from an additional decade or more in the barrel.

To begin, all aspects of this spirit are subtle. The aroma is sweet and fruity, hinting at grapes or syrup. The palate presents an interesting mix of spice, sweetness, and bready (wheat or grain) notes. The conclusion is particularly understated, with the palate flavors mostly vanishing into a clean, smooth finish. This spirit strongly evokes the impression of fine tequila.

Wow! Is this actually whisky? That was my initial reaction. Extremely strong floral notes that make you question if it's gin or something else. It's certainly an interesting dram, but I'm not sure it will be a major hit with traditional Japanese whisky enthusiasts. Try it at a bar first!