Reviewing bottles from my cellar, I present a tasting of aged whiskies: Bowmore 18, Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor), Balvenie Portwood 21, and Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray). This selection, ranging from 18 to 22 years old, includes Islay, Highland, and Speyside malts, gathered for comparative enjoyment rather than a definitive ranking. Bowmore 18 Its hue is the second deepest, matching the Balvenie 21. The aroma offers banana bread with hints of Islay character: light iodine, salinity, and gentle peat smoke. The taste has a slight roundness, but the fruit fades, replaced by a touch of white pepper spice. The medium finish begins with passionfruit notes, then gives way to mild char and smoke, leaving a watery impression. This expression contains added caramel color, which is baffling for an 18-year-old Scotch. It diminishes the authentic peat malting tradition. This age statement should be trusted, making artificial coloring unnecessary and confusing. It doesn't enhance the experience; it detracts from the tradition and heritage. Available for about $150, the Bowmore 18 isn't unpleasant but lacks distinction. The added coloring feels deceptive. There's no clear justification for it. I would not repurchase it due to its price-to-value ratio and my objection to the coloring practice. Rated 3.0. 43% ABV. Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor) This is the palest whisky here, resembling Pantone 130. The nose is reserved, gradually revealing apples, honey, apricots, eucalyptus, and a medicinal ethanol note, similar to the aromatics of Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky. Cocoa emerges later. The palate significantly amplifies these scents and shows some body. The transition to the finish brings noticeable spice, coffee, more cocoa, and a subtle, lingering smoke. This Highland Park 19 requires patience to unlock its layers. A thoughtful gift from a friend, the question isn't repurchase, but rather whether I'd buy it at all. It retails for approximately $225, if found. It's a desirable addition, but not essential, especially given the subjective nature of whisky preference. I'm fortunate to have it. I no longer have Highland Park 18 for direct comparison. Rated 4.0. 52.7% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Distilled 6/1999; bottled 6/2018. Cask # 501104; Bottle # 236/352. Its light color suggests no added coloring. Balvenie Portwood 21 The color is Pantone 153, identical to the Bowmore 18. The nose is subtle, hinting at port and dark chocolate, with notes of mocha, sandalwood, and honey. The palate develops into rich chocolate, masking the alcohol, with no significant spice in the transition to a long, chocolate-forward finish. The chocolate notes are prominent. Balvenie represents a traditional Scotch with a contemporary edge, exemplified by its varied cask finishes. It balances heritage with modernity, leaning towards tradition in its elegance and composure. This Portwood 21 embodies that Balvenie philosophy. This whisky is pricey, around $300 currently. While I acquired it at a lower cost, I would repurchase it if price were no object. It's a complex dram that invites contemplation due to its predominantly chocolate profile, though it can also be enjoyed as a straightforward chocolate treat. Rated 4.0. 43% ABV. Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray) The darkest whisky, indicative of sherry cask influence, Pantone 160. The aroma is distinctly sherry: toffee, chocolate, dates, strawberry preserves, and dark gingerbread. It evokes Cracker Jack. The palate is intensely flavored, with a long, sweet finish featuring chocolate, peanut brittle, and a hint of sweet espresso bitterness. Costco's Kirkland brand often features high-quality private label products. While some may dismiss it, the value is undeniable. Regardless of its sourcing, it doesn't detract from its quality. For an $80 price point, finding another 22-year-old whisky of this caliber is highly unlikely. I purchased two bottles, and this is the first, so yes, I would buy it again. Exceptional value. Rated 4.25. 46% ABV. Overall, the Kirkland offered outstanding value with its age and price. Highland Park and Balvenie were both excellent, each in its own way. The Bowmore was noticeably less impressive than the others, irrespective of its Islay origin. A final comparative tasting confirmed the Bowmore's unchanged status, Highland Park's robust character, Balvenie's rich complexity, and Kirkland's enduring quality.
Kirkland 22 Year Speyside Single Malt Sherry Cask Finish
Whiskey Scotch Speyside 22 Year 46% ABV
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About this bottle
This whisky is a private label for Costco, bottled by Alexander Murray & Co. It is aged for a minimum of 22 years in ex-bourbon casks and then finished for 6 months in ex-oloroso sherry casks. It is presented at 92 proof and is sold exclusively at Costco locations.
Reviews
Showing the most detailed of 22 parsed reviews.
The color is a deep mahogany, and it doesn't appear to be chill-filtered, though not stated on the bottle. It has medium to high viscosity. The aroma is subtle, with hints of fruit, raisins, black pepper, and caramel. The sherry is quite prominent despite only a six-month finish in sherry casks (perhaps they didn't rinse them thoroughly before adding the spirit?). The palate is sweet and smooth, with abundant fruit, nuts, oak, and vanilla. A slight bitterness at the finish suggests the age statement (22 years). The aftertaste is medium in length but enjoyable, featuring the same fruit and slightly bitter vanilla notes. A small addition of water to this 46% ABV pour helps reveal its floral character, and notes of honey and chocolate emerge. It creates better balance and rounds out the drink nicely. The finish develops a hint of smokiness at the end, characteristic of older spirits. As it sits, the aroma and palate gradually shift towards a more floral profile, though not as pronounced as an old Glendronach. This doesn't detract from the spirit's character, and it remains a very pleasant and highly enjoyable drink. It's definitely worth its $80 price tag.
Neck Pour: just opened Aroma: dark fruits, honey, ripe apple - I enjoy this aspect the most. Flavor: thinner than I anticipated but reasonable for the 46% ABV. Oak and malt with a clear sherry influence/essence, a good amount of vegetal pepper. Finish: astringent on the sides of the mouth, dark fruit lingers for a few minutes. Value: I was excited for this but am somewhat disappointed; hopefully, it opens up as the bottle is consumed. P.S. After 2 months, with half a bottle gone, this has improved significantly. While its score only increased by 0.75 points on this site, the initial vegetal note has completely vanished, and a solid oak and sherry note are now leading with a cinnamon apple flourish. I'm going to buy one, possibly two, backup bottles at this price. 5.0 - go out and buy all the stock you can find. 4.0 - must buy at least one bottle before you die. 3.0 - solid, a must-try at a bar, or mooch from a friend. 2.0 - didn't like it, you might. 1.0 - you might have the palate of my dog, and he licks his own ass.
Nose: profound dark berries, dried grapes, citrus peel spread, an sophisticated sweet confectionary essence reminiscent of a luxury shop, not a common sugary taste, profound malt, burnt sugar, fortified wine, aged cowhide in a distinguished, well-maintained study, cinnamon or mace undertones, a faint whisper of gentle char or smoke akin to fine pipe tobacco in that aged study, a trace of sweet, delicate blossoms, exceptionally balanced, completely devoid of harshness. Taste: dark berries, citrus peel spread, agreeable spice, the tobacco smoke appears pleasingly, cowhide, a pleasant warmth on the palate's end, persists nicely for a spell before an even dissolution, leaving behind the aged cowhide and spice characteristics. This is unequivocally among the finest sips I've ever experienced given its cost. Allow it 15-20 minutes to rest after pouring, and you will observe its evolution. Acquire some and indulge yourself with a periodic serving of a skillfully crafted scotch.
The aroma consists of caramel, maple syrup, vanilla, and floral notes. It presents a bright, spicy, and bitter tobacco beginning, followed by smoke and woody flavors. The sherry influence (dried plums) and apple mash notes at the end are subtle for me, but it concludes with sweetness. It has a rather pronounced peaty smokiness and definitely exhibits oakiness from charred wood. I can only faintly detect the suggested orange marmalade (sweetness and bitterness), as it's quite understated. Adding a bit of water makes it smell sweeter and more floral, like honey, with vanilla and smoke. It becomes much softer and smoother to drink, with a stronger floral and briny coastal flavor, followed by peat and oak. The long finish includes notes of old leather and tobacco, evolving into grape skins (without the tannins) and dusty, old roasted coffee, root beer, and marshmallow. The sherry finish is more prominent.
A really interesting pour to celebrate 2021. It's a great comparison to the kirkland 20 year, and I honestly go back and forth on which I favor (both are better than the 18). Dark fruit like raisin and plum dominate the nose along with baking spices. The aroma is gentle...perhaps too gentle, but welcoming. Dark brown sugar and leather notes complete it. The flavor is similarly gentle, but this is undeniably one of the longest finishes I've encountered in my novice scotch journey. I typed that whole sentence and it's still developing. The dark fruit is clear, and depending on how long you hold the sip, it drinks like an 80 proof or a 115 proof. Mild marmalade and tropical fruit flavors with the sherry on the end providing the full experience. I've had better drams, but this is quite nice for the cost.
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