My Saturday bike route from the charming Hudson Valley town of New Paltz led me past the small countryside distillery of Coppersea, and I stopped at its new tasting room on my return journey. The head distiller, Christopher Briar Williams, served me three samples from his collection: this green malt rye, along with the Bonticou Crag Straight Single Malt Rye and Big Angus Green Malt. The straight rye was delightful (***1/2), but it was the distinctive green malts that held my attention. Made from grain that is wet-germinated, they possess an unusual herbaceous quality in their flavors. The green malt rye (***) was the more unconventional of the pair, with a hint of lavender among its numerous vegetal notes. Big Angus – made from green malt barley (****) – has remarkable aromas reminiscent of Assam tea. The circumstances did not permit detailed note-taking, but all three whiskies were remarkably well-balanced and integrated, considering their youth and complexity. I would have happily purchased a bottle of Big Angus if not for the fact that it and the green malt rye cost $90 for a 375 ml size. The price reflects the intensive labor involved – it takes two days to mill wet grain – and the meticulous craftsmanship that includes Coppersea producing its own barrels from New York oak. However, it also highlights the difficult financial realities of the craft spirits industry. Nevertheless, the tasting flights are reasonably priced at $10 for three small pours, making it a worthwhile stop if you are in the vicinity.
Coppersea New York Green Malt Rye
Whiskey Rye New York No age statement 45% ABV
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About this bottle
The term "green" rye malt in this whiskey's name signifies that the malted rye has not undergone drying, a process often used for storage and shipping. As Coppersea malts its own grains, they forgo the drying step, proceeding directly from malting to mashing. The whiskey is then aged for seven months.
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I made a stop at Coppersea on my journey for a family vacation to Lake George. Luckily, I was the only patron in their tasting room as they were just starting their day. I had a small sample of this as part of a tasting flight. It's a very distinct style of rye – fresh, herbal, but rich. It was my favorite among the few I tried (closely followed by a distillery-exclusive Sauternes finish and a distillery-exclusive Amontillado finish). The green malt was expensive as a bottle, but absolutely worth it as part of the tasting flight.
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