A tasting showdown of whiskies rated 96 points by experts. This review turned into a more detailed exploration than initially planned. I wanted to organize my collection by expert ratings and start from the top. Currently, I have one 97-point bottle and five 96-pointers, so they are grouped together. These comparisons are not always straightforward, as different reviewers assign the scores, and the scores aren't specific to whisky type. This group includes a blended grain whisky and five single malts, all Scotch, and coincidentally from Islay. Future groupings might include whiskies from different regions and styles to see how high scores compare across types. Tasting six whiskies thoughtfully presents a significant challenge, involving many potential comparisons. The empirical analysis will likely take several days, sampling three whiskies on consecutive nights with brief notes, followed by all six on the final night, using very small pours. COMPASS BOX HEDONISM: Light straw color, clearly without added coloring. The aroma has notes of papaya, grapefruit, tangerines, marzipan, a bit of tanginess, and vanilla. The texture is very glycerin-rich, with oaky vanilla dominating the palate. A tiny bit of white pepper appears at the end, followed by a finish of more vanilla and some of the woody, tannic bitterness noted previously. If 'hedonism' means 'vanilla bomb,' this expression fits the description perfectly, with 'RICH-VANILLA-ALLURING' highlighted on the label. This vanilla intensity is even more pronounced when tasted after other whiskies in this group. Approximately 30% of this whisky is 20 years old, and over 9% is 26 years old, all matured in first-fill bourbon casks, making the vanilla profile understandable given the extended wood contact. This Compass Box expression costs around $120. I would not purchase it again. Rated 2.5. 43% ABV. Not chill-filtered. No added coloring. Series MMXVI-C. BOWMORE 18-YEAR: Clear russet mahogany color. The nose reveals sherry influence with notes of dates, rugelach, brown sugar, and cocoa, layered over typical Islay peat, smoke, iodine, salt, a hint of band-aid, and seaweed. These sweet and savory elements carry through to the palate, with well-integrated alcohol, especially considering the standard 43% ABV. The medium-length finish offers a straightforward continuation of the sweet and savory characteristics. Bowmore 18 stands against other sherry-finished Islay single malts like Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition and Ardbeg Uigeadail. However, the Lagavulin DE surpasses the Bowmore 18 in both sweetness and peat intensity. While the Oogie doesn't have an age statement, it offers significantly more power and complexity, providing a richer, more satisfying experience than the Bowmore 18. For those who prefer less intense, gentler whiskies over cask strength options, one might consider the difference between an elegant and refined whisky versus one with similar gentleness but lacking complexity. The Laphroaig 15-year 200th Anniversary Edition exemplifies the former, while the Bowmore 18 falls into the latter category. It's not a powerful whisky, which is subjective, but it lacks the sophistication and depth of the L15. While the L15 is a special release and not a direct comparison, it highlights the point, especially given they both received 96-point scores. I would drink the Bowmore 18 again, but given my extensive collection and other options, it's unlikely I would specifically choose it. It's a pleasant whisky, but not remarkably so, and not deserving of a 96-point rating, especially considering its around $150 price point. I'm glad to have had the bottle for evaluation, but I would not buy it again. Rated 3.5. 43% ABV. 18-year age statement. Chill-filtered. Coloring added. LAPHROAIG 10-YEAR: Clear, natural straw color. The aroma presents peat smoke, kelp, iodine, Band-Aid, bacon fat, sage, fresh figs, white pepper, apple, speck, and orange marmalade. The palate offers fig and honeyed sweetness, reminiscent of seasoning on a well-used cast-iron griddle. The alcohol is moderate given the abundance of flavors; a higher proof version would be beneficial, and the Cask Strength expression delivers this. The finish is long with light fruity notes, peat smoke, and ash. Laphroaig 10 is an iconic Islay whisky available for about $50. While its distinct "burning hospital" profile can be divisive, it's one of the most complex whiskies available and offers exceptional value. I would absolutely buy it again. Rated 4.5. It's puzzling how Laphroaig 10, as good as it is, receives higher scores from experts than some of its Cask Strength older sibling batches, which are purer and more complex forms of the same spirit. This is a rhetorical question, but one worth considering. A comparison pour of Cask Strength Batch 13 suggests that if Laphroaig 10 is rated 96 points, the Cask Strength should be rated even higher. 43% ABV. 10-year age statement. Coloring added. LAPHROAIG 15-YEAR 200TH ANNIVERSARY: Bright amber color. The nose exhibits notes of cocoa powder, honey, gardenia, apple crumble, gentle peat, scones with strawberry jam, iodine, kombu, nori, and a damp cardboard box, along with smoke. On the palate, it is light and elegant, with honeyed sweetness from the nose, followed by white pepper, salt, significant ash, and lingering smoked meat on the finish. The L15 is sophisticated, graceful, and wonderfully complex. Due to its limited release status, online prices now range from $500 to $1,000. I would purchase it again at its original price, slightly over $100. I am fortunate and pleased to own it. Rated 4.5. 43% ABV. 15-year age statement. Coloring added. LAGAVULIN DISTILLER’S EDITION: Deep orange amber color, darker than the L15. The nose presents notes of dates, raisins, prunes, banana baby food, Frangelico, milk chocolate, and a hint of vanilla, all overlaying the typical Lag16 notes of kelp and iodine, with a faint hint of Sharpie marker, indicating the classic Lag16 character is present but subdued. The palate opens with a hit of brown-sugar simple syrup, then reveals the classic Lag16 notes of kelp, iodine, and smoke. White pepper, brief brown sugar, and lingering smoke characterize the finish. From aroma to finish, the LDE transitions from sweet to peaty. It is a far more refined and elegant integration of Islay malts and sherry casks compared to the Bowmore 18 or Ardbeg Uigeadail. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition is available for around $110. I would buy it again. Rated 4.25. 43% ABV. 16-year age statement. Batch lgv. 4/507. Coloring added. TALISKER 10-YEAR: Clear burnt orange amber color. It has a cotton-candy-like sweetness, notes of Grape Kool-Aid, powdered cocoa, apple pie, and a touch of smoke. Peaty smoke and BBQ sauce are also present. The mouthfeel is oily and more viscous than the L15 and LDE. The palate has honey and concentrated pear extract. The finish includes white pepper, honeyed biscuits, brown-sugared oatmeal, and smoky peat. Talisker 10 has consistently been one of my favorite Scotch whiskies, and this tasting reinforces that opinion. It is more robust and youthful than the preceding whiskies, yet still remarkably complex. Talisker 10 can be purchased for about $65. I would buy it again, without question. It offers incredible value. Rated 4.25. 45.8% ABV. 10-year age statement. Coloring added. E150a RANT: I am increasingly learning about E150a, which is caramel coloring added by distillers to enhance the appearance of whisky. There is absolutely no justifiable reason for a high-end whisky with an age statement to include artificial coloring. Regarding a previous review of Bowmore 18, I questioned the purpose and rationale behind adding coloring, stating it was deceptive. None of these whiskies are budget-tier; they are aimed at the whisky connoisseur. The tradition, simplicity, and regulations defining Scotch whisky—made from cereal grains, water, and yeast, matured for at least 3 years in oak casks, with no added flavoring or sweetening—make it unique. Why is coloring permitted? If a whisky is naturally dark, like Edradour 10 (which uses no coloring), I want that darkness to reflect natural cask maturation, not artificial enhancement. Germany mandates full ingredient disclosure for whisky, including the presence of E150a. Websites like scoma.de allow you to check specific whiskies for "Farbstoff" (coloring), indicating "Ja, Zuckerkulör E150a" (Yes) or "Nein" (No). Serious consumers of high-end whisky desire authenticity. Springbank whiskies are typically lighter in color because they do not use coloring, and this does not deter whisky enthusiasts. Compass Box also produces expensive whiskies without added coloring, which are also well-regarded. The reasons Bowmore, Laphroaig, and Lagavulin add color are questionable and potentially misleading. Economically, fewer ingredients mean lower costs. Why are these distillers attempting to deceive consumers? I invite further discussion on this topic. CONCLUSION: What is the significance of a rating? Beauty and merit are subjective to a degree. While no scoring system is flawless, many can be improved. Furthermore, the methodology behind these ratings requires clarification. Many 0-100 scales are inflated, typically ranging from 60 to 100, whereas users employ the full spectrum of the 0-5 scale. How are rankings determined? Various methods exist, such as weighting nose, palate, and finish equally, or incorporating value. Imposing structure, while potentially restrictive, facilitates more consistent comparisons than a completely unstructured approach. In this tasting, the Compass Box Hedonism and Bowmore 18 stand out. The Compass Box is admittedly one-dimensional, a "vanilla bomb," and I agree. While not a bad whisky, a nearly monolithic profile, especially at a high price point, doesn't warrant a 96-point score. Beyond the aged components, there's little justification for its premium cost. John Glaser's transparency regarding the blend is commendable and sets a standard for producers, as does the absence of added caramel coloring. However, this doesn't alter the drinking experience. The Bowmore 18 is even more problematic with its added artificial coloring. Better and more affordable whiskies exist in a similar style; it lacks a "must-have" quality for a 96-point rated whisky retailing at $150. The remaining whiskies excel for distinct reasons. Laphroaig 10 offers outstanding value with its complex "burning hospital meets beehive" character at $50. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a prime example of restraint and sophistication, not simplicity, complemented by a 15-year age statement. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition masterfully balances sweetness and peat, surpassing the Bowmore 18 and other similar offerings in refinement. Talisker 10 also represents remarkable value as a youthful, potent whisky with sweet and peaty elements that stimulate the senses, offering both intellectual and hedonistic enjoyment. These four expressions are winners in this showdown, each worthy of a high expert rating. All spirits were tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. (Note: This review is duplicated for each whisky tasted to provide context and facilitate comparison; the reviews appear in the same order as listed at the top.)
Compass Box Hedonism
Whiskey Scotch Scotland No age statement 43% ABV
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About this bottle
Compass Box Hedonism is a blended grain whisky composed of whiskies from several different grain distilleries, with an average age of 25 years. Grain whisky is produced in a continuous still from a mix of cereals, typically including wheat, corn, and barley, and is often sold young to blenders. This blend offers a superb result.
How it tastes
Measured across 14 flavor axes. Tap a note to find other bottles that lead with it.
Reviews
Showing the most detailed of 50 parsed reviews.
Nose: Rich caramel, vanilla, toffee, baked sweetbreads, menthol, dried herbs, a touch of ethanol. Perhaps some dried stone fruit. Perhaps. Palate: Straight bourbon corn sweetness - unusual. Vanilla, toffee, caramel, cinnamon, some other baking spice, mild fruit notes with aeration. Medium-heavy body with good substance and a mouth-coating sensation. Finish: Slightly bitter (tannic), medium spicy, woody, sweet vanilla, maybe some orange citrus. Good length. This is a truly delightful whisky, but unfortunately, I find it a bit pricey. It comes across almost like a Scottish take on bourbon, which presents a dilemma – why not simply purchase a decent bourbon for half the cost? To be fair, it's certainly distinct and appears to show some age (though I'm not sure I've fully captured that above), but justifying a hundred dollars for a blended grain Scotch is difficult when you could get bottles of, for example, Buffalo Trace and Johnnie Walker Green and still have change. In other words, this is likely a niche whisky aimed at enthusiasts. Guilty as charged, but I doubt I'll buy this again soon. I don't doubt I'll purchase it again eventually, as it's genuinely tasty, but it will require a specific craving or an opportunity to introduce it to someone I believe would appreciate it. I'm not craving it, put simply. I might feel differently at $50, however unfair that assessment may be to this whisky. _______
Pantone 121's extremely pale clear straw color. Its nose is peculiar, offering notes of soy sauce, green pepper, a hint of smoked meat, subtle tangy BBQ sauce, and some faint vanilla. The palate is remarkably smooth and rich, with a sweet vanilla-infused simple syrup flavor that gives way to abundant white pepper. The long finish presents coconut, vanilla, and a slight woody tannic bitterness. My prior assessment of this bottle on June 28, 2022, yielded a 2.25 rating. The palate and finish show significant improvement compared to the nose. If I had encountered this blind, even with its pale color, I wouldn't have known what it was or how to approach it. It lacks any recognizable character. Details on this whisky's composition are available for download from https://www.compassboxwhisky.com/whiskies/hedonism. The elements include: • 31.1% 20-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel single grain from Dumbarton distillery • 29.8% 14-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel single grain from Cameronbridge distillery • 15.2% 13-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel single grain from Cameronbridge distillery • 14.8% 18-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel single grain from Strathclyde distillery • 9.2% 26-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel I don't understand the excitement surrounding it. Furthermore, as I mentioned in my previous review, the marketing's all-caps proclamation of "RICH-VANILLA-ALLURING" on the front label is misleading. Compass Box typically sells for around $130. Would I purchase it again? Absolutely not. No, no, no. I would consume it if offered, though, simply to fit in. 43% ABV. Non chill filtered. No added coloring. Series MMXVI-C.
Compass Box and its founder are recognized as unconventional figures in the scotch world, and they uphold a standard of quality (this bottling is free of added coloring and is non-chill filtered; reports indicate the various components were aged for at least 15 years, some over 20). I sampled Hedonism a couple of times shortly after buying it and recall being underwhelmed, though I didn't record specific notes then. That initial impression remains largely the same. It presents a dried hay color. As Hedonism is aged in bourbon barrels, the aroma features oaky vanilla (the label boldly states "RICH * VANILLA * ALLURING," as if tasters couldn't discern it), along with Cheerios and milk chocolate. The palate has a viscous, glycerin-like texture (again, the label highlights "RICH") with additional oak notes and a hint of white pepper, consistent with a standard 43% ABV scotch. The finish offers some light, slightly bitter woody tannins. The key descriptors from the label, "RICH" and "VANILLA," are present, but the "ALLURING" aspect is missing. It's not unpleasant; it's simply uninteresting. Scotch offers a vast spectrum of styles, aromas, and flavors; and numerous alternatives exist that are far less one-dimensional, possess greater complexity, and are objectively superior. This becomes even more apparent when considering its value: current prices range from $100-130 (I believe I paid around $90). That's quite steep for a rich vanilla profile at a common ABV. Note: All spirits were tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
Rating: 12/23 My previous encounters with Hedonism have left me generally unimpressed, finding it somewhat bland with an oily bitterness, though it did possess a reasonable body and richness. Nose: This definitively smells like a grain whisky. I detect oiliness with a mild alcohol sting, slightly dusty oak, hints of over-aging, a touch of lemon, and perhaps a whisper of coconut and vanilla. It certainly doesn't evoke 'hedonism'. Palate: It exhibits less of the raw spirit harshness found in most grain whiskies. The use of new American oak barrels might be a significant factor here (as is the low alcohol content). Initially sweet, with notes of vanilla, oil, lemon, and alcohol. There's a faint milky quality. The flavors lack distinctness, richness, or fullness. I might detect a minuscule amount of coconut. Finish: The sharpness recedes, but a subtle oiliness and new American oak character remain. Beyond the wood, there are hints of vanilla and possibly coconut. - Conclusion - I'm surprised by the lack of body and richness. How is this considered 'hedonistic' in any way? I compared it directly to several other drams I wouldn't classify as particularly hedonistic, such as Compass Box Artist's Blend (rated 13/23) and Knappogue Castle 12 (rated 115/23), and this comes across as positively watery and harsh in comparison. It offers more vanilla than Signatory's Caledonian 29 (rated 12/23) and is less harsh, but it also lacks the fuller, almost malty caramel grain flavor. I wish I could assign a higher rating, but I don't see it exceeding a 12 or 13. Between the two, I lean towards a 12.
Besides Artist and Glasgow Blends, Hedonism is one of the last core Compass Box selections I haven't thoroughly and honestly sampled. To be fair, I did taste this spirit years ago when I was just starting to appreciate good whisky, long before I had the skill to TRULY appreciate fine whiskey. The aroma certainly evokes rich, creamy indulgence. Vanilla and Coconut blend with thick, sweet cream. A touch of baking spice enlivens the bouquet, along with slightly bittersweet cacao right at the end. A wonderfully sweet taste! Warm, gooey caramel kicks off this dessert-like experience. The texture is incredibly creamy as the sweetness flows, though it borders on being overly sweet. (Fans of heavy peat might find this blend excessively sweet). Vanilla cream with coconut fills your mouth and nose as the flavor recedes, absolutely sensational. The finish is moderately long, maintaining that creaminess which makes the taste so distinctive. Coconut macaroons and vanilla ride that creaminess into the distance. My God, this is stunning. I hope Compass Box maintains Hedonism in its core lineup for many years because it is by far their finest standard offering.
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Tastes like this
Closest flavor profiles across the whole catalog.