Clonakilty Port Cask Finish Irish Whiskey

This "random Showdown" review is a bit incongruous. The Clonakilty and Limavady are both NAS, while the Yellow Spot carries a 12-year age statement; the Limavady is a single malt, while the Clonakilty and Yellow Spot are blends (the former sourced from different distilleries, and the latter a single-sourced blend of various cask finishes). The Clonakilty and Limavady are marketed at similar price points, while the Yellow Spot is typically triple that. The common denominator is the fact that each is a proper Irish Whiskey—and any common denominator is good enough for another Showdown. The purpose of these Showdown reviews is not to declare a winner per se, but rather to better understand some of the subjectivity of whisk(e)y appreciation as a function of context and comparison. CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY Burnt-orange amber in color, the second darkest (or lightest) of the group, akin to Pantone 144. Fruity nose shows apples, peaches, sweet cherries, a little honey, and some vanilla. The palate is sweet and gently creamy—a little like strawberry ice cream—while remaining light on its feet. There’s a touch of bitterness on the back end—adding complexity rather than negativity—before transitioning to a dash of white pepper and lingering honey and vanilla on the finish. I’ve never had Clonakilty before—I’d never even heard of it—and it was a pleasant surprise (no, I’m not channeling Emily Dickinson with all of the em dashes). From the label, I was expecting something heavier, given the port finish. The whiskey has a little weight, but overall it’s quite fruity. This Clonakilty expression (there are several) can be found for $50-55. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 43.6% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Batch # 038. 7,000 bottles produced. Unclear if E150a coloring is added. LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY In the glass, shows as dried hay and light amber, and is the lightest in color of the three whiskies in this Showdown (Pantone 143). Initially, there’s an brief herbaceous aspect (parsley? Bell pepper?) which blows off. Distinct banana chip note, along with Circus Peanuts marshmallow candy, some Cheerios cereal, and after much back-and-forth between the three whiskies in this Showdown, some butterscotch. There’s also a dank, damp wood note that is not offputting per se but rather conjures up notions of Irish Whiskey aged in underground cellars. Some nice oiliness on the palate, with more of the circus peanuts, before a peppery note kicks in along with the same Circus Peanuts, some not unpleasant bitter espresso, and a touch of toffee on the finish. The Limavady is the only single-malt, single-barrel Irish whiskey in this group. Subjectively, it comes across as “tighter” than the other two—and concomitantly, more intellectually challenging to describe. The single-barrel designation means there can be bottle variation from year to year, and even intra-year. One cannot plot a trendline against a single data point, but my experience with this data point will coerce me to seek out another data point in due time. At $40-50, the Limavady is a relative value, especially considering its uniqueness. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.5+ As a side note: take a look at the picture accompanying the review. The Limavady has the most difficult stopper cap that I’ve ever experienced in any ingestible this side of a child-proof prescription cap. It is solid glass with a silicone seal ring, and requires the supplicant to work his or her ass off to get to the internals. I had to hold it in both hands, and then push up on the ventral side with both thumbs in order to free it. Distinctive, but very high maintenance. So I checked the website, which states that the bottle is “paying homage to the original 1750s design…Featuring an old-school ‘blob top.” I’m an old-school guy myself, but the perceived beauty of this so-called blob top is analogous to the skinned-knuckle aesthetics of a Ford Model A hand crank. 46% ABV. Barrel # 0143. Bottle # 746 of 846. Unclear if E150a coloring is added, but this one is the lightest of the three. YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY Color is a deep burnt orange, the darkest of the three (Pantone 159). Tasted alongside the others, the nose is like a cozy blanket. It evokes orange oil, sandalwood, fruitcake, mulled cider, sandalwood again, some vanilla, and something strawberry—think Strawberries Romanoff at Sparks in NYC (which has Grand Marnier in the whipped cream). This whiskey is soothing and calming, like an olfactory deep-tissue massage. The palate is viscous and coats the tongue; it is slightly woody, with vanilla, yellow raisins, and a reemergence of the orange oil on the nose. The proof is nicely integrated, with a gentle reminder of its presence on the back end, finishing with a pleasant woody vanilla note. As soon as the Yellow Spot touches your lips, there’s little doubt that you’re drinking something special. I’ve now had the Green, Yellow, Blue, and Red Spot Irish whiskies. Yellow Spot is delicious, and it should be, given the price (around $150—when it can be found). It’s expensive. But as good as it is, in my book, it only ranks third in that list (Blue #1, Red #2, Yellow #3, Green #4), which is a testament to the entire line. Would I buy it again? (This was a gift). Yes. I’d like to always have all the Spots (Green, Yellow, Blue, Red) on hand. 4.5+ 46% ABV. Non-chill filtered. E150a coloring added. CONCLUSION This was an enlightening Showdown. Each whiskey has distinct attributes that were reinforced in the presence of the others. The Clonakilty is the fruitiest and sweetest; the Limavady a bit tighter and more focused, in the same way that a young cabernet sauvignon can be (though whiskey, of course, will not soften with age as a cab would). The Yellow Spot is in another class: it is confident and authoritative and grabs your attention, in comparison to the other two. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. N.B.: The entirety of this review was written while listening to Dave Brubeck’s “Time Out.” on Apple Music. I saw Dave Brubeck in concert about 35 years ago, either before or immediately after their tour of the USSR—which (much to my chagrin) dates me as no spring chicken. But I do recall tapping my feet in 5/4 time to “Take Five.”

Years ago, I acquired the Clonakilty Bordeaux Cask Strength 9 Year Single Grain, which was a store exclusive. Back then, I was drawn to such releases for their distinctive character. Although I no longer have that bottle for direct comparison, I recall it having a vibrant profile. Despite its 112 proof, it wasn't overpowering, offering a creamy and fruity sensation, reminiscent of strawberries and cream. The finish had a peppery kick, and overall, it was a spirit I was glad to have tried but uncertain about repurchasing. It did spark my interest in Clonakilty, a name I found appealing and a brand previously unknown to me. Local shops also stocked the Port Cask Finished Irish and an 87-proof Single Grain Bordeaux Cask Finish, both priced at $52.99. For a time, I hesitated to spend that much on what could have been a gamble, even though I enjoyed the Cask Strength version of the latter. However, when the Port Cask dropped to $42 on clearance, I immediately purchased it, and upon smelling it now, I have no regrets about spending that amount for its quality. The influence of the port cask is immediately noticeable. The aroma is rich with fruit and wine, along with a faint herbal note that is fresh and green, complementing rather than clashing with the fruit. Curiously, it reminds me of a subtle hint of fresh asparagus. While this might be unusual for some, the aroma is undoubtedly among the most refined and distinctive I've encountered in an Irish whiskey. Moving to the palate, the same fruity notes are present, predominantly berry, along with the red apple typical of Irish whiskey, and a hint of cereal grain. This partly evokes a higher-quality Tullamore D.E.W., though it doesn't resemble Tully 12, the only more premium Tully I've tasted. There's a slight alcoholic bite that I don't recall from the cask strength Clonakilty, which is surprising and prevents me from rating this slightly higher. I suspect this bite comes from the bottle's youth (unlike the Cask Strength version, this lacks an age statement). While it may not be as smooth as something like Knappogue Castle 12, I find it more engaging and would likely choose another bottle of Clonakilty over revisiting that one. The finish is of moderate length, with the alcoholic bite on the palate transforming into black pepper as the fruit notes fade. Ultimately, I'm not inclined to rush out and buy the regular strength Bordeaux Cask bottling soon (unless it goes on sale again), but this experience does make me contemplate trying the Cask Strength version once more to see if I overlooked anything previously. It might sound odd, but even in the two years since I last tasted it, I feel my palate has developed, enhancing my ability to discern flavors and evaluate my overall enjoyment of whiskey. With around 80 bottles still available online, it makes me wonder if the Cask Strength Bordeaux Finished version might have been an overlooked gem that I should reconsider.

Port finishes can be overwhelming, particularly for more delicate spirits. Hopefully Clonakilty hasn't gone overboard here. Nose: Somewhat light, yet featuring syrupy fruits like strawberry, peach, and black plum, alongside some moderately toasted nuts, all encircled by a substantial mineral ring. It feels decadent yet oddly subdued. Hints of grain are present, but the base spirit doesn't showcase much character. Palate: Sweet and fruity, but with a thin, hot profile and peculiar spices that quickly overpower the fruit. The fruit now tastes insipid. Strawberry, blackberry, and the flesh of ripe black plum. A touch of nuttiness with some buckwheat-like qualities. There's a faint lingering funkiness that's hard to ignore, reminiscent of an old, worn-out PX sherry. Finish: Surprisingly bitter with dry tannins and a funkiness that doesn't quite dissipate. - Conclusion - This is a bit too funky while still being young and flat. The port influence is a bit excessive. I believe this is likely better than a 10. I had a more favorable impression of Clonakilty American Oak. Revisiting this, I'm detecting notes of twizzlers. Still some nuttiness, but a lot of twizzlers. It brings to mind youngish Glenfarclas, perhaps around 15 years old (which is young for Glenfarclas). The flavor remains muddled. This outperforms The Sexton (9/23), but isn't quite on par with Evan William's Bottled In Bond (10/23). The rating for the Evan Williams might be slightly low, especially considering this sample has had ample air time and has mellowed, gaining some nuttiness. This is definitely farther from The Sexton than the Evan Williams, so I'm assigning it a 10. I could be persuaded it might be an 11, but a 12 would be a tough sell. I could even be convinced to rate it an 8 if I revisited it and the bitter notes were more prominent. On the final sip, Dudognon Reserve (10/23, though potentially a bit underrated) is superior. Thank you to a friend for this sample!

Pale gold hue. Fantastic aromas of crisp apple, sweet honey, ripe peach, tropical papaya, rich butterscotch, and smooth vanilla. The palate has a pleasing, slightly thick texture. A mild white pepper sting starts the conclusion, succeeded by persistent vanilla. The 43.6% ABV is well-integrated. The subtle bitterness I previously observed (1/15/24) has vanished, replaced by a delicate coffee flavor. This is a superb, affordable ($50-55) non-chill filtered Irish Whiskey. It's very approachable with no harshness. Finished the bottle tonight, but I will certainly seek out another. 4.0/5.0

The nose has a strong fruity scent that reminds me of powdered fruit punch mix. It fades as it sits in the glass, allowing some honey and vanilla to emerge. It has a semi-sweet, somewhat thick, and peppery taste with notes of vanilla and strawberry on the palate. The medium finish is slightly bitter and peppery.

Get it if you can find it; it offers more complex fruit notes and a longer finish than most Irish whiskeys. I detected raspberry, nectarine peel, a little cherry, and a hint of pear alongside the vanilla and almond notes. I am eager to see what Clonakilty produces with their own distillate!