Caol Ila 10 connoisseur's choice (Gordon & macphail)

I stumbled upon this at my local liquor store while searching for something unique and affordable, and I couldn't have been happier: for under $60 for a named Islay IB, it seemed like a bargain. It's bottled at a higher proof than the official 12-year-old—46% ABV, my preferred range, compared to the distillery's 43%—and comes from first-fill bourbon casks. My memory of the 12-year-old is that it's a three-star whisky – I'm content to drink it but wouldn't purchase a bottle – so the standard for an independent bottling to surpass it is fairly low in my opinion. And it does surpass it, although not quite as much on the second tasting as it did on the first. My initial impression of the nose upon first pour was a musty, alluring blend of mulch and dried figs. However, the dominant note was quite different on a subsequent evening, when I was most struck by the aromas of green apples. More consistently, it's light and creamy on the first sip, with pears appearing mid-palate followed by a bite of freshly sanded wood. The long finish evoked fizzy cola bottles (referencing Proust’s Reference Book of Olde British Sweets) on the first tasting, though the woody note was more prominent on the return visit. I would have given this four stars based on the initial tasting alone, but I've reduced it by half a star due to the slightly sour bite of the finish during the repeat tasting. My assessment is that a combination of a slightly overactive first-fill barrel and a hint of youthfulness in the spirit have slightly unbalanced the finish, but overall it's a fine whisky for the price and a good fusion of fruit and peat for a summer Islay. It's a good buy at $60, so I'll round the rating up to four stars.

My third and final choice from my recent visit to the Flatiron Room in NYC. The Flatiron Room is well-organized. Unlike some whiskey bars I've been to, the requested bottle is always found, even if the staff need to use ladders and reach into rafters. However, in this instance, it took about 10 minutes and some discussion before our server located the bottle. 'This one isn't ordered often,' he mentioned. For those who do order this whisky, an intriguing and pleasant dram awaits. Intriguing, because I wouldn't have guessed it was Caol Ila if served blind. While not drastically different, the meaty, barbeque peat note that I consider signature to the 12 and 18 is not the primary characteristic. There's ample peat - more than in the 12 or 18 - but it's a more intense, smokier peat reminiscent of Lagavulin. Pleasant, because a complex range of flavors complements the peat, including prominent vanilla, some lemon custard, apple, and earthiness. Despite the peat's intensity, I found it to be a noticeably brighter rendition of Caol Ila. I haven't delved deeply into independent Scotch bottlers, but this dram makes a strong argument for exploring them. It is both a very fine whisky and a significant departure from its well-known relatives.

Underwhelming. I had higher hopes for all aspects. Bland. Overpriced for what it is. Get the Caol Ila 12 instead. It's far superior. UPDATE: Letting it rest for several months made a huge difference. Sometimes patience pays off. Increased rating by one star.

Medicinal, peaty, oceanic.