Bunnahabhain 2007 Mòine Oloroso Finish (Fèis Ìle 2018)

I was fortunate to acquire a small amount of this from a contact who provides me with samples of special edition Bunnahabhains, many of which I haven't tried yet. I've enjoyed all the ones I have sampled, and the distillery has rapidly climbed my rankings from an overlooked producer to one I follow with interest, even if their limited releases sometimes rival Highland Park in quantity. This was one of two Feis Ile releases this year and, contrary to the distiller's information, it matured entirely in oloroso sherry casks. I don't usually comment on the color of my drams, but this one is exceptionally dark, and naturally so, as far as I can tell. The aroma is rich with stewed fruits and Christmas fruitcake. I anticipated harsh alcohol notes due to its strength, but it's very approachable and doesn't sting the nostrils. This is not the case in the mouth, where the impact of the undiluted spirit overwhelms the taste buds. It requires a couple of teaspoons of water to calm it and reveal the fruity aromas. They are delicious, but it's heavily influenced by the cask, and I didn't detect much of the peated spirit. The finish is where things become more intriguing. It's dry, reminiscent of black tea, with a lengthy aftertaste of plums and dark chocolate. This aftertaste persists, evolving into a mouthful of plump raisins soaked in wine, lingering for at least an hour after I finished the glass. It's a five-star finish for a whisky I would otherwise rate three stars because the sherry influence has overpowered the core of the Bunna spirit. Therefore, I'm compromising and deeming it a worthwhile purchase if found at a reasonable price.

Bunnahabhain is among the distilleries that produce top-tier peated and unpeated expressions. Both ends of the spectrum are flawless and without compromise. This one is certainly no exception. Sweet Italian cappuccino infused with thick and characteristic Islay peat. But this is merely the opening act – the main performance is the Oloroso nuttiness with dried mushy fruits, brown sugar, and heavy oak – followed by a supporting role of freshly pressed apple juice, sawdust, olive oil, and whole grain granola. The peat hangs over every stage like a dense evening autumn mist. The palate introduces itself with rock candy, black tea leaves, intense peat notes with a dryness that gives way to a warm creamy sweetness after a time. The peat is so delightfully integrated that it creates a harmony I've rarely experienced from a spirit. The fruity, nutty Oloroso character is so vibrant and saturated, with the peat playing off-beat, that you can simply smile with every sip while making a barely audible "hmmm." This spirit is truly like a magnificent song. Even the finish plays its medium-short but significant part with cappuccino notes remaining as the final impression. This is as close as one can get to a perfect spirit. Bunnahabhain: well done.

Solid and confident! 😎