BHAKTA 50 Year Brandy

Score: 21/23 This is my 1000th review on the platform! For this special occasion, I selected a sample of an incredibly aged brandy, which I've dubbed "nearly-Armagnac." The reason for this moniker is a brief finishing period in Islay casks, disqualifying it from true Armagnac status. I'm eager to explore the impact of this unique finishing process, a bold choice given Armagnac's typically smoky and robust flavor profile. For those unfamiliar, Bhakta Brandy is produced by the same individual behind Whistlepig. While I'm not a big fan of Whistlepig, I have a long-standing appreciation for Armagnac. This spirit primarily consists of exceptionally old Armagnac, with the addition of an Islay cask finish presumably to enhance depth and complexity. When I mention its extreme age, I'm referring to the 50-year age statement. I've encountered very few spirits this old. While some contain traces of aged spirits, this one begins at 50 years. Bhakta Brandy also highlights that its oldest component is from 1868, meaning it spent 152 years in wood! The question remains, however, how much of this is actually from that era? Rémy Martin promotes the age of Louis XIII's distillate but doesn't provide specifics, leading me to suspect it's blended down. Bhakta, conversely, emphasizes that they are not diluting the old spirit – precisely what one might say if they were. Bhakta states that 37 barrels are used for this brandy line and lists the vintages for each bottle on their website. My initial thought was that the majority came from 1970 with a few older components. However, by counting the vintages, a rough estimate of the age distribution in an average release is possible. I found 29 vintages (including 1970) across 25 releases. I anticipate 37 releases, suggesting more vintages may emerge. It's also possible multiple barrels share the same vintages. For my estimation, I assumed equal barrel volumes and that the remaining 8 unlisted barrels are from 1970. These assumptions, working in opposite directions, I expect to balance out. Based on this, my estimates are: - 76% over 50 years old - 59% over 60 years old - 46% over 70 years old - 38% over 80 years old - 27% over 90 years old - 19% over 100 years old - 19% over 110 years old - 13.5% over 120 years old (pre-1900) Average age: 77.75 years old Even with significant estimation error, this is far from minimal use of old spirit. Now, I'm ready to taste. Tasting: This is batch 15, named "Boniface." Nose: After a few minutes of aeration, a strong woodiness emerges, surprisingly without being over-oaked. Rich smoke is present, with a hint of medicinal peat and tarry black licorice. A touch of vanilla is there, but the wood imparts a French oak tannic aroma, with remarkably soft tannins. The fruit notes are subtle, primarily apricot and/or sultana, with cherry gradually appearing. The cherry has a floral quality. There might be a hint of orange too. A moderate spice blend includes black pepper, white pepper, and clove. A faint saltiness surfaces at times. As it opens up around the 10-minute mark, some funky herbs emerge, possibly a hint of mint. Leather also makes an appearance. Compared to Delord 25, which smells light and sharp, this is so full and mature that I fear it might taste muted. Palate: Bold flavors! Intense woodiness is quickly followed by a wave of peat. It's more tart than anticipated, with stronger tannins. It's also less viscous than expected. Fruit is present but less prominent than the wood. Subtle notes of sweet, floral cherry combine with sultana and apricot. Fresh black pepper dominates, with a touch of white pepper. Clove is noticeable but not overpowering. A mild burn lingers in the throat without being harsh. Abundant tobacco and other herbal notes are present, requiring effort to discern subtle complexities. Dark roast coffee beans and char are also detected. Finish: The peaty tang and wood persist the longest. Occasional hints of floral cherry appear, but the finish is predominantly herbal with strong tobacco and char notes. A faint hint of mint is also present. Conclusion: The depth is commendable, but the peat seems to clash with the other elements, arriving in powerful waves. In comparison, Delord 25 (rated 20) is more youthful and fruity, with a sweet caramel note absent here. Delord offers less complexity but is a more accessible drink. This spirit is more rugged and deep, potentially at the expense of balance. Regarding depth and complexity, it rivals A De Fussigny XO (rated 18-19), though this has a more robust and mature profile and is far less fruity. Both share a subtle burn. El Dorado 21 (rated 21) tastes flatter, possessing a peculiar musty maturity that this lacks despite its boldness. Joseph Magnus (rated 20-21) is spicier, with more leather and fruit. This spirit is considerably tarter. Glenfarclas 25 (rated 22-23) seems younger, sweeter, fruitier, and more dessert-like. While not as complex, Glenfarclas excels in enjoyment and maintains excellent balance. Springbank 12 Cask Strength (rated 22-23) is nearly as complex, while being more balanced, less thin, and more...indulgent? It's difficult to categorize precisely, but it falls within the range of these comparisons. What truly stands out is that it's both the oldest spirit I'm likely to taste and the only peated brandy I've encountered. I expected a subtler peat complexity, akin to Laphroaig or Lagavulin, but this tastes as if it could have been finished in Ardbeg Traigh Bhan casks. It's challenging to find a direct comparison. However, it does align with the range of spirits I've compared it to. This was undoubtedly the most complex and deep, though A De Fussigny XO was a close contender. Conversely, it was the least balanced. I could see a score anywhere from 19 to 23, though 19 feels low, and the balance and thinness issues make a 23 seem improbable. I might prefer this over Glenfarclas 25 in certain situations, but I could also prefer Joseph Magnus or even A De Fussigny XO in others, which doesn't help much with rating. The Springbank comparison is more telling; I'd likely choose the Springbank over this in most scenarios. Therefore, I'm ruling out a 22 and considering a 20 or 21. The maturity is evident, but the Islay finish seems excessive. It might have been better divided and finished separately in Islay, Cognac, and sweet Sherry casks before blending. Perhaps the Islay casks weren't even necessary. I worried about a lack of personality, but it suffers from surprisingly rough edges. Reducing the peat, increasing the fruit, addressing the thinness (a Sherry finish would help), and tempering the astringency could elevate it to a 23. I'm conflicted, but this is such an interesting and complex dram – not just a novelty – that I'll award it a 21. Ultimately, I'd be delighted to have a bottle on hand for moments when I seek a true challenge. Musings: I'm curious to sample the individual vintages that comprise this brandy, wondering how much of the bold flavor is due to age versus the specific distillate, barrels, and other factors. This brandy, targeted at Islay enthusiasts, seems like a worthwhile endeavor. I hope it integrates well with younger vintages (preferably much younger), though I'm concerned its success here might be solely due to the powerful, dry wood influence. Time will tell, as Bhakta plans to release younger brandies after the current aged stock is depleted. I recently saw a cognac labeled a "cigar blend," which made me realize that many brandy drinkers appreciate smoky, tobacco flavors. Why haven't there been more attempts at peated brandy? I read that some grapes affected by wildfires are being made into brandy, so smoky brandy might become a trend. I recall trying a smoky Pinot Noir last year that worked quite well. But I digress. It's a terrific brandy, likely finished too aggressively. Thank you to a friend for sharing this rare and fascinating pour!

The only other spirit over fifty years old I was fortunate enough to taste was the Craigellachie 51. I was also fortunate to share that experience with a friend. So, a friend, ever gracious, provided me a sample of this “through the ages” Armagnac. Conceptually, it's like joining a time-traveling adventure and going through centuries and decades, stealing pours, instead of iconic people, and blending them. So, partially to enjoy something good after a few days of imbalance from the vaccination (fully vaccinated) and because it’s been a while since I actually had some time to sample, I figured I would treat myself. The color is deep and rich like mahogany, like a Hacker boat. It’s been sitting in my Coptia glass for about ten minutes and the aromas are immediately present. However, let it sit, and sit, and sit but taking in the notes over time. Baking spices are evident; prominently nutmeg. Cinnamon, cloves and oranges (like those kindergarten crafts we made for mom for Christmas), lemon zest and pineapples, raisins and apricots. Some dry Merlot-like notes seep through, but in the depths of the spirit. All about the nose exists this presence of and old, damp, musty cellar or library books. A similar experience with the Craigellachie 51. Like it was forever lost in a basement corner and recently discovered. Wonderful! The initial arrival brings a varietal wave of flavors and sensations. Sweetness, then peat which rolls into a front forward prickle and then stone fruits and sherry. Apricots, raisins, Luxardo cherries and plums provide the fruitiness. Vanilla and caramel add some sweetness. All about, just so slight and not overpowering is the earthy, smoky peat with some oak and black pepper spices. A long welcoming finish as you don’t wish this to fade with any rapidity. Cigar ash lingers all about. Fruity, black cherries with black pepper and oak tannins with a touch of earthy minerals ride the smoky ash for what seems endless. It has been a long while since I recall experiencing something this rich, earthy and sweet. I can get lost in this spirit and not want to be found. This smells and sips more as a scotch than a brandy. This may be worthy of a $375 price tag. Take your time to enjoy the full experience. Thanks again to a friend for sharing. A wonderful pour. #WWD. [Tasted: 5/14/21] For more information about this Armagnac, if you are interested: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.forbes.com/sites/joemicallef/2021/01/16/tasting-an-extraordinary-old-brandy-bhakta-50/amp/

I received a small 3cl sample of this special batch 9, called “Colgrevance”. Now, here’s what makes you pause...the components of this spirit are from 1868, 1893, 1929, 1941, 1955, 1962, 1965, and 1970. Every single component is older than me, and the first one was from around when the USA finished the Civil War, and a few years after Lincoln was assassinated. Just to put things in perspective. Also, the bottle costs $300. Again...putting things in perspective. Okay, so it’s incredibly old. We get that. But how’s the spirit? It was very briefly aged after blending in Islay casks, but I’m not detecting any Islay on the nose or palate. What I am getting is oak and robust red wine. The taste is amazing —-oak, red grapes, oranges, cloves, and allspice. For $300, I doubt you can find anything with components as old as this. It’s expensive...but the wow factor is off the charts.

The Lohengrin Barrel #6 ABV 47.2 First impressions: Extremely smooth, with subtle, refined, and harmonious notes of strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, oak, crispy caramel, smoke, and menthol. Finished 6-1-23 This does not quite match the anticipation. It remains very good, with consistent flavors, and I would happily consume more at a more reasonable cost. Score reduced by a quarter point.

The aroma is weak but pleasant. The taste is best described as musty with subtle flavors - actually a very enjoyable experience.