Springbank 17 Year Madeira Wood

I've delayed reviewing this pricey bottle for a while, but it's time. $260 and under 48% ABV. Wow. Nose - I always feel a sense of calm when I first smell a Springbank, and I get their signature notes of salt and bread. It's a familiar and comforting sensation, and this bottle is no different. It feels like home. Then I start searching for the somewhat sulfuric, earthy sherry casks they typically use, but something else emerges: cleaner, sweeter, and less complex. Yes, I smell wine, but it's not the Springbank wine notes I know. It's not the umami-rich Burgundy casks or the dark, damp dunnage Port notes either. This is different. Crystallized sugars atop a rich dessert profile. I don't know much about Madeira on its own, but while I can't pinpoint it, it feels familiar, just not in this context. The nearly 18 years have imparted enough oak to be noticeable but not dominant. As I explore further, a slight sourness emerges. Overall, while I'm not eager to dive into this, it's rich, complex, and offers something unique. Taste - Springbank's malt comes through with a subtle yet distinct wine finish. Initially, the wine casks aren't overwhelming, but they do overshadow the Springbank malt, presenting wine notes and some acidity. Soon, however, the peat and bready character of Springbank push back, and the rest of the experience is dominated by the malt. What I seek in a well-finished expression like this is for the wood to interact with the malt throughout, influencing each stage. While it's acceptable occasionally to highlight the wood versus the malt, this should only happen if the casks are exceptional, which isn't the case here. Adding water, as always with Springbank, increases the saltiness and alcohol bite but thins the body too much. It brings out more oak spice. As a huge Springbank enthusiast, this is overwhelmingly disappointing. My score is 2.75, and I wouldn't want a backup bottle. I wish I could send myself a sample from the future to avoid purchasing this bottle entirely. It's still good, but I'd prefer a Springbank 10 given the price.

On the nose, I detect some berries, pound cake, salted caramel, and a significant wine influence. The palate is more varied, offering notes of prune, dates, caramel, balsamic, and a slightly herbal hint on the finish. A faint wisp of smoke lingers in the background. The aroma is fantastic, and it has a pleasingly substantial mouthfeel despite being only around 48% ABV. Based on other reviews, my enjoyment of this seems higher than average, though I suspect the price impacted others' opinions (but Local Barley is just as costly now...).

A perfect balance of sweet, smoky, and salty. Nose: Smoke, Sea Salt, Caramel, Raisins, Cherries, Sultanas, Pineapples, Raspberries, Strawberries, Iodine, Guava, Passion Fruit, Pineapples, Mangoes, Papaya, Almonds, Marshmallows, Dark Chocolate, Potato Chips Palate: Raisins, Pineapples, Mangoes, Papayas, Milk Chocolate, Dark Chocolate, Leather, Tobacco, Grapefruits, Bananas, Honey Finish: Honey, Milk Chocolate, Strawberries, Pineapples, Dates, Raisins, Sultanas

Damn, strong. Okay, my version had a white (cream) label. Perhaps it's different. Okay, then with water: peaty and salty, not at all like the fig taste of old (very old) Springbank.

Nose: A hint of sweetness and licorice. Palate: While Madeira isn't my preferred cask, this one is acceptable. It's sweet with minimal peat.

You just have to try it!