Pulquero Malate Mezcal

Ever date that wild college person you thought would offer amazing experiences? Like bungy-jumping, it's a rush. Reminds me of someone we'll call "A." She was seriously out there, pushing limits far beyond normal. Many experiences are unmentionable, but one involved driving rural highways at 60mph with headlights off at night, counting to ten, and hoping to survive. It turned her on, leading to other boundary-pushing escapades. That wildness fades fast, making you check your insurance before dates. This pour is similar. It’s a sample of a mezcal that shouldn't exist. Originally intended as pulque, made from fermented agave sap (unlike mezcal, which uses the plant itself), from a specific pulquero agave. The sap harvesting is sustainable, like maple syrup. Due to COVID, a bar in Oaxaca had excess agave meant for pulque (which spoils in two weeks), so they made it into mezcal. This is the strangest, funkiest mezcal I’ve had. I can’t finish a full glass, but a sip was interesting. The aroma is very earthy, like damp hay and barnyard notes. The taste starts with a wave of damp hay, then a metallic hint, followed by spicy pepper, and more damp hay—even damper. The barnyard smell and taste are overwhelming. It's not subtle; it hits you like a truck. Like "A," I'm glad I tried it but also glad I didn't commit. Same goes for this mezcal – glad I sampled it, but I won't be buying a bottle.

We usually agree on spirits, but I must disagree here. It's a delightfully stinky expression. Blue cheese, wet hay, and barnyard aromas are among my preferred drinking scents, and this delivers abundantly in a delightfully filthy way. The palate is a bit dry and short, more akin to a London gin than a mezcal, but I would gladly spend an evening with a glass or two of this.