Penderyn Portwood

Nose: Toffee, cappuccino, caramel, milk chocolate, leather, intensely berry-flavored gummy sweets, stewed prunes, a little oak. Palate: A sweet arrival with red fruits that quickly turns dry - almost astringent - emphasizing citrus fruit and hot spices. The development expands on this initial spicy note with a burst of spicy, tannic heat (hot cinnamon, nutmeg, clove oil, black pepper). Then a sharply defined second wave of development appears with mild wood flavors, brown sugar, lots of berries, red fruits, and nuts. The texture is full and heavy. Finish: Medium/short, and it stops very abruptly. An oaky stewed-fruit compote on the aftertaste. A curious whisky. Not unpleasant at all, but different. The structure seems somewhat unusual, and there's a touch of sulfur that intrudes slightly on both the nose and palate. It's not a sherry bomb, and there's no hint of smoke. If I had to give it a name, I'd call it a "jammy leather bomb," if that makes sense. With water - well, just don't do it. Even a few drops kills it completely. No nose, barely any palate. It's incredibly fragile. This was tasted from a sample I've had for a while, poured from one of the early 41% bottlings about six years ago when a friend bought a bottle. The sample was overfilled, so there was no air gap, and the cap was sealed very tightly, so I assume it lasted well. It's certainly an interesting whisky, but I have no desire to find a bottle. However, I would like to try a sample of a more recent bottling, particularly the cask strength tawny port expression. The price I've listed was its 2013 price. "Above Average": 81/100 (3 stars).

NOSE: Metallic grapey dark fruit, malty sweet, brown sugar, light spice, and a touch of melon rind and leather. This presents as slightly dry and leathery, but the fruitiness is prominent yet balanced, creating an inviting profile. PALATE: Metallic grapey dark fruit, earthy (mushroom-like), malty sweet, brown sugar, and a bit of cinnamon and leather. This is deeper and warmer than the aroma, but it feels a little disjointed, as if it hasn't fully integrated yet, though it's very close. FINISH: Medium, fading out tartly with grapey fruitiness, maltiness, brown sugar, and a hint of citrus.

★★★★½ Wow! How good is this! We are quickly transported to seventh heaven while tasting this sublime whisky. A balance worthy of a tightrope walker with eyes closed over the Grand Canyon. Again, I want more. Unfortunately, the price will certainly prevent me from always having a bottle on hand.

Nose: nuts, jam, oak/wood, chocolate, plums, mild smoke, mild sea water. Palate: wood, smoke, cocoa, red berries, spice, tree bark, ginger. Finish: Ginger, lemongrass, spice, Szechuan pepper, hints of wood.

Nose: fruity like all Penderyn. Mouth: fruity, grapes, sweet and round. Finish: sweet.

Baked bananas in chocolate on the nose. A hint of smoke, sea salt, candied plum, sugared white cherry, and apple jelly. The palate offers more cherry with spices, cassia bark, and timber.