Old Pulteney Huddart

Old Pulteney tasting event, Sydney, February 26, 2020, Whisky #2 Nose: Initially, a very faint peatiness, but the smoke becomes more pronounced as the dram evolves. A subtle citrus fruit, vanilla, and a fleeting hint of menthol. Palate: The initial impression is dominated by smoke, which is more substantial here than on the nose. Citrus, brine, warm spices, and brown sugar emerge during development, with some oak notes towards the conclusion. With time, and especially after adding water, the peaty aroma takes on a cardboard-like quality. Finish: Moderate. Smoky ash and brine. The smoke imparts body to this whisky, and it closely resembles the current 12 year old but with an added layer of smoke. It's actually younger (8-10 years) but the smoke gives it a presence and weight that makes it seem older than it is. The brand representative mentioned that this was the result of an unintentional occurrence when a batch of spirit was mistakenly put into ex-bourbon casks that had previously held Laphroaig. Hmm. It's more probable that they intentionally conducted an experimental cask finishing using ex-peated barrels rather than running peated wash through the stills. Regardless, the outcome was impressive enough to persuade the distillery to make Huddart a permanent offering in their core range, although it's not aged in ex-Laphroaig casks. The casks originate from their sister distillery, Knockdhu, which produces a variety of peaty whiskies. It's a good, mildly peated dram, and it has garnered positive reviews from critics. Several distilleries are currently producing these "aged-in-ex-peated-cask" expressions (including Scapa, Wolfburn, etc.), and personally, I find Wolfburn Northland to be a more nuanced execution of this maturation concept. "Above Average": 82/100 (3.25 stars)

If you've already read the excellent review from of the Huddart, here's my brief impression - Exactly what he said!! If you're still reading, a few further observations - The aroma of the Huddart is absolutely wonderful. Whenever I open a new whisky bottle (in this case, a small sample), I make it a habit to smell the initial scent that escapes when the cork or top is removed. In this instance, a substantial sweetness greeted me, similar to a sherry bomb. But once in the Glencairn glass, it opened up to reveal citrus and apple, vanilla, and custard. There's peat smoke present as well, but it's so masterfully blended with the fruit that it wasn't the first element I detected. Based on the nose alone, this warrants at least a 4.75. I found myself contemplating what would happen if I placed it in an essential oil diffuser. Perhaps the only genuine drawback concerning the palate is that it represents a decline from the nose. However, there's some pleasant, gentle peat smoke atop what tastes like typical Old Pulteney – notably brine and creamy honey. The finish has a slight bitterness, but it's a dark chocolate and grapefruit bitterness that is quite enjoyable. It appears the Huddart has reached the US, as it's available at a particular wine shop in Boston (though they carry many unusual bottles and might be importing through alternative channels). My understanding was that Old Pulteney's complete new core line was scheduled to hit US stores in early 2019, so I'm somewhat surprised I haven't seen it in other locations yet. Consequently, I'm unaware of the typical US pricing and therefore have no basis for assessing its value for money. But it's a highly commendable dram, and I hope to see it on shelves soon.

The non-age-stated bottlings have previously been the weakest part of the Old Pulteney range, but this new release is a commendable exception. Matured in heavily peated casks from a Speyside distillery, it boasts an exceptional aroma that I'd love to explore further. The peat presents as heathery and is remarkably intense for a whisky merely finished in casks, comparable to Balvenie Peat Week. The palate is less impressive, and the blend of peat influence with Pulteney's signature marine flavors isn't as harmonious as in an Islay, but it's still a whisky I'd happily enjoy at home. This applies to all four core expressions in the new Pulteney range, which is rare for many distilleries. In other words, any selection from Wick will satisfy.

Not a bad bottle and quite interesting to see Old Pulteney produce a peated expression. However, it remains an average bottle with a price that is far too high. This bottle should absolutely not cost $90; it's easily $20-25 overpriced. Very faint lemon aroma, with a taste that is both saline and smoky. On the other hand, it's relatively light and somewhat bland. Nevertheless, it's very drinkable; a luxurious weekday dram. Bottle opened in 2021-08.

I bought a bottle out of curiosity and was immediately captivated by its briny, herbal, coastal interpretation of a spirit-forward malt. While other spirit-forward single malts lean towards light fruitiness and sweetness, this one emphasizes a coastal character with mild, pleasant sweetness and a hint of smoky/peaty notes. My closest comparison is Clynelish, but with less fruit and more brininess. This will be a regular in my collection from now on.

Clear peat on the nose, but not so dominant that you can't smell other notes. Sweet undertones with a hint of vanilla and orange. When sipping, the body is full and rich with distinct barrel spices, and some peat. Chocolate and dark fruit emerge. On the finish, there is chocolate and some tobacco, almost meaty. The finish is long. An amazing whisky for its price.