Old Pulteney 15 Year

A specific wine shop in Boston is recognized for its outstanding whiskey assortment. Last week, I was in downtown Boston with just enough time for a brief initial visit prior to a business dinner. It's a beautiful neighborhood, and the shop is located in an attractive stone building. However, upon entering, I found myself in a scene that reminded me of a rundown corner store – small, cramped, with no decoration, and bottles haphazardly placed on shelves. But as my eyes adjusted, treasures were revealed. Among the messy shelves sat a particular Highland Park expression next to a Yamazaki 18. There were vintage bottles of Ardbeg, a Mortlach 25, Springbanks up to 21 years old, a Macallan Rare Cask, and numerous high-end drams from producers I'd never encountered. An older gentleman behind the counter quickly greeted me. He asked, "Looking for anything in particular?" I responded, speechless, "No." He then inquired, "Well, what do you like?" I replied, struggling to form coherent thoughts, "I appreciate many things... and wow, you have a vast collection of amazing whiskeys." He stated, "We have many more that aren't displayed, so it would be beneficial for us to converse." Fortunately, I regained my ability to engage in meaningful conversation, and our discussion began. At some point, I mentioned that I had recently tried and thoroughly enjoyed Old Pulteney 17. He smiled. "We just received the new line," he said, revealing a bottle of the new 15 from behind the counter that was about one-third full. Indicating the low remaining volume, he informed me the bottle had been opened just two days prior. "It's VERY good," he said as he reached for a plastic cup and poured me a sample. It was indeed VERY good. I purchased a bottle and departed for dinner. I opened it the following evening for a more leisurely and careful sampling. On the nose, there are aromas of sea air, brown sugar, and sherry-influenced fruit notes. The palate echoes the aromas from the nose, with the addition of toffee, raisins, and a subtle hint of dark chocolate in the finish. It's definitely distinct from the Old Pulteney 12 or 17, but it retains many of the core characteristics of both, with the saltiness being the most prominent feature. When compared to the 17, I slightly prefer the 15. It exhibits more pronounced sherry cask influence, which I find very appealing. Those who favor a greater oak presence will likely lean towards the 17. Overall, this is an exceptional new dram, definitely worth keeping. And it was a great beginning to my interactions with the staff at that establishment, where I will undoubtedly return.

A very coastal nose – brine, minerality, flinty rocks, yeasty bread. Toffee and cocoa, light fruitcake and mild spice. Some spirit notes. Full spicy/sweet entry with a foundation of dry brine and tannin. Sourdough bread, dark-chocolate dipped candied orange peel, green apple peel and salt-water taffy as it unfolds. Water greatly improved the palate for me, adding considerable balancing sweetness and an impressive density to the texture, but still retaining the fundamentally dry character. Medium finish. Very dry, briny and earthy finish with a touch of orange marmalade. The nose is reminiscent of the 12 year old expression but with greater heft – richer, rounder, sweeter, etc. – but it has formidable dry quality. Very much the 12 year old's big brother. For a 15 year old this is very spirit driven and on the palate the dryness really becomes apparent with the brine notes turning astringent and acerbic in the finish. This is being marketed (and priced) as more-or-less the replacement for the old 17 year expression, but in my view it’s nothing at all like it, and nowhere near as good (the 18 year is much more the replacement, but it also falls short). Still, it should be judged on its own merits and not in comparison. This has received restrained sherry treatment, spending 13 1/2 years in ex-bourbon and then 1 1/2 years in ex-sherry (both first fill). A representative at the tasting event let slip that they source the sherry casks from the same bodega as Glenfarclas, which means they are ex-oloroso from Bodegas José y Miguel Martin. The bourbon casks are a variety, but Buffalo Trace feature. A good expression, but at the price not fantastic value. Some folks at the tasting event liked this a lot but while I enjoyed it, it left me just little cold and I’d not buy a bottle. “Good”: 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Coffee, sultanas, toffee, salt Palate: Green apples, raisins, salt, caramel, mineral oil Finish: Medium long finish, more of the fruit and raisins with some added salt and pepper. Smooth and chocolatey aftertaste. This is a very nice whisky. It leans more towards sipping than casual drinking, but it sits somewhere in the middle for me. It has a lovely creamy mouthfeel and a nice body to it that is absent in the 12 year old. I still miss the 17 year old, which was discontinued a few years back, but I believe this is the top offering in their standard range (though the NAS Huddart is also quite good). I had previously tasted this at an Old Pulteney tasting on June 4th, 2019, at DRAM! Glasgow. I liked it enough to purchase a bottle then, and I recently bought another to replace the one I consumed. Out of the 6 drams at the tasting, this received 0% of the votes for favorite, placing it last, but the general agreement was that all 6 were very difficult to distinguish. I ranked this a very close second.

The aroma resembles Highland or Speyside scotch from a bourbon cask, with a coastal, salty character. The palate is very similar, providing a full mouthfeel. Barrel spice and salt are present in the finish. If this had peat (I wish), it could rival an HP15 (though I haven't tasted the latter). It's that good. Thanks for the sample, a true gentleman with discerning taste. 50ml sample.

A wonderful aroma greets you; it's earthy and peppery, with sea-like characteristics. The malted barley is noticeable, yet it's enrobed in oak. There's a slight dampness with a whisper of nuts or nutshells. Maybe a tiny bit of vanilla. The palate echoes the typical Pulteney taste, it's briny – the faint smoke isn't really in this aged spirit, but the additional oak in the conclusion compensates for it – this is a zesty spirit; the zest is a blend of cinnamon and black pepper, almost a fusion of the two but with the harshness smoothed out. It's quite enjoyable, leaving a lengthy, peppery, woody yet botanical aftertaste. The texture on the palate is slick, almost as if it possesses multiple strata – a lighter, malty aspect that transitions into a slicker, woodier, more seaside character.

The aroma presents notes of orange blossom honey, tart apple, and pie crust. On the nose, I don't detect the salty characteristic I usually associate with Pulteney, perhaps only very faintly. The texture has a pleasant oiliness. Honey develops into some spice towards the end. Toffee is present. A touch of fruit emerges in the finish. I might be imagining a slight salty note, but it's certainly not dominant. A good whiskey. Good value for the $70 I paid. I'd rate it between 3.75 and 4.