Mortlach 25 Year Distillery Labels (Gordon & Macphail)

So far, my short exploration into Mortlach has been quite incredible and to finish this run is a sample from a friend of this 25 year old bottled by Gordon and Macphail that I’ve been looking forward to for quite a while. The nose starts with floral grassy notes and light sherry influence with Raisinette candy then light sulfur and minerality that fade but remain in the background of blood oranges and baked apples followed by a light spice of white pepper and dusty leather-bound books with light ethanol burn. The taste is a medium mouthfeel starting with sherry influence of musty grapes, high percentage dark chocolate and fresh figs followed by some vanilla blossom floral notes then a light sulfur and minerality that gracefully transitions to citrus fruits of blood oranges and apple peel leading to a light spice of white pepper, cloves and dusty leather-bound books with light ethanol burn. The finish is long with light sherry sulfur, dark chocolate, fresh figs, blood oranges, dunnage floors, and dusty leather-bound books that lingers for minutes. This is simply a stunning whisky with an incredible balance of those rich sherry notes with some medium citrus, light florals, minerality and very old oak that flows harmoniously together creating a masterpiece of liquid art. I was very close to giving this a 5, but in a side by side comparison to my favorite Hazelburn 13(2020), the flavors were a bit more subdued, likely due to the lower ABV causing me to lower my rating slightly. On a quick google search, it appears that these are still widely available for under $250 which is surprising for the quality and age considering that’s nearly the same price if not less than the Mortlach 20 year and this is by far superior to the 20 year. I’ll have to add it to my whisky shopping list for next time I place an order and another huge thank you to a friend for the generous pour of this gem.

Mortlach is the savings bond of whisky. Putting it in a cask is a long-term investment with the lowest risk of failure. Original bottlings get criticized, but the older ones are not bad whisky; they are just overpriced, and Diageo’s attempts to doll up the bottles for the luxury market are embarrassing. The overpriced official 18 year old was good; I’m sure the overpriced official 25 year old is good, but nobody without bipolar disorder on an epic manic episode will ever buy it; and the current 16 year old is even decent value for money. But, if you really want a full Scotch experience at a fair price, get an independent Mortlach that is old enough to buy alcohol. This G&M 25 year old is actually fairly available. It is more contemplative and gentle than what is typical from “The Beast of Dufftown.” The serving strength of 43% undoubtedly contributes. But there is a mesmerizing rough harmony to this one that can snap you out of a daydream about something else, and have you just as quickly daydream about this instead; like a Corrine Bailey Rae song. Hard and soft, at the same time. Okay, some actual notes. Tropical fruits in gummy bear form, fresh pineapple, and Cara Cara navels – it’s very fresh and floral with an exotic sweetness at the beginning. Chocolate and herbal tea notes develop later on. You have to really move the whisky around in the mouth to get that classic Mortlach burly meatiness, with a touch of ginger and white pepper. The texture is fairly oily and the flavors cling for a soft but long-lasting finish. This is an exemplary whisky. Perfectly balanced and perfectly priced. Score: ** (unimaginably good) How much does a bottle cost: $230-270 How much do I think a bottle is worth: $250

This Mortlach was bottled by Gordon & MacPhail on September 16, 2019, as part of their Distillery Labels range. It is stated to be 25 years old and has 43% ABV. The price is approximately $300. This is my second bottle of this 25-year-old Mortlach. I reviewed my initial bottle in 2020, from a 2017 release, and it appears I was quite fond of it. Unfortunately, I cannot recall if that bottle also exhibited a sulfuric character like this one does, or if I was simply too preoccupied with exploring different single malts to notice. Alternatively, perhaps Gordon & MacPhail occasionally uses flawed sherry casks without discarding them. Whatever the reason, this particular bottle is not enjoyable. However, I won't assign it a one-star rating because there are some redeeming qualities. It's quite remarkable in 2024 to still be charging $300 for a 25-year-old single malt from a well-regarded distillery, and the influence of well-aged whisky is evident in both the aroma and taste. Rich notes of toffee and crystallized candied orange are present. There's also a desirable sulfur note, sometimes a distinguishing feature of older Mortlachs – a meaty, umami, shiitake mushroom flavor that is uncommon in whisky. A good whisky is present within, but it is unfortunately overwhelmed and marred by some terrible sherry casks.

Another highlight from a tasting with a friend last night. I'm consistently surprised that Mortlach produces subpar official bottlings, while their independent bottlings are excellent. That seems counterintuitive. If I had tried this without tasting the Michter 10 rye, Ardbeg 19, and Octomore 10 beforehand, it would have easily earned a 5-star rating. However, when competing with other exceptional spirits, it naturally faces closer scrutiny. Nevertheless, it's a remarkably good pour, displaying notes of hazelnut and light sherry. It leaves a nutty and buttery aftertaste, similar to Marcona almonds. A solid bottling from the consistently reliable G&M.

This independent Mortlach presents aromas of chocolate, raisins, damp earth, and mulch, an intriguing mix that continues to evolve. The taste mirrors this intricacy, featuring prunes, black tea, a touch of spice, and caramel. The finish is extended and smooth, with a whisper of cocoa powder. While the 15-year-old expression from G&M felt subdued, this older release amplifies those flavors and harmonizes them masterfully. It's the kind of dram that lifts my spirits.

Received as a sample from a friend. Very rich. I enjoy this more than Macallan 25 Year. Nose: Raisins, Chocolate, Toffee, Cherries, Dates, Plums, Honey, Hazelnuts, Cinnamon, Brown Sugar, Orange, Apricots, Sultanas, Citrus, Almonds, Marzipan, Barbecue, Baking Spices, Vanilla Palate: Raisins, Dark Chocolate, Meaty Sulphur, Plums, Toffee, Pepper, Oak, Brown Sugar, Burnt Oranges, Hazelnuts, Flowers Finish: Burnt Orange, Chocolate, Maple, Pepper, Beef, Leather, Smoke