AGED WHISKY SHOWDOWN Bowmore 18 Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor) Balvenie Portwood 21 Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray) Continuing to explore bottles from my personal stock that I haven't yet reviewed. This selection is admittedly a bit random, featuring an Islay (Bowmore), a Highland (Highland Park), and two Speysides (Balvenie, Kirkland). The shared characteristic is their age statements, ranging from 18 to 22 years. As with prior "Showdowns," the goal isn't necessarily to pick a single champion (though one might emerge), but to enjoy an interesting comparison and share the findings. I've ordered these from the youngest to the oldest. Bowmore 18 The color is the second deepest in the group, almost exactly matching the Balvenie 21: clear Pantone 153. The nose presents banana bread, along with subtle Islay traits like light iodine, saltiness, and gentle peat smoke. The palate offers a slight roundness, but the fruit fades, and a touch of white pepper spice appears. Something like passionfruit starts the medium-length finish, which is then overtaken by some light char and smoke, but the overall sensation is weak; almost like water. Regrettably, Bowmore 18 contains added caramel coloring. I genuinely don't understand why any distillery would resort to this. It diminishes the overall experience: burning peat to malt the barley is as traditional as Scotch whisky gets. This is an 18-year-old whisky, which inherently possesses authenticity; why compromise the age, tradition, and experience by adding coloring? It's baffling. Bowmore 18 is currently available for approximately $150. It's certainly not unpleasant, but it's also not particularly memorable, and the added coloring essentially constitutes deception. What's the purpose? What is there to conceal? What is the reasoning? Would I purchase it again? No: based on both its price/value ratio and my objection to their coloring practice. 43% ABV. Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor) This whisky is the palest in the group, resembling Pantone 130. The aroma is somewhat reserved, reluctantly revealing apples, honey, apricots, a cool eucalyptus note, and a medicinal quality likely due to ethanol; the effect is quite similar to the Hall's honey-lemon cough-drop scent I detect in Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky (reviewed Sep 21, 2023). However, cocoa then emerges. The palate significantly amplifies the initial aromas and shows some body. The transition from palate to finish introduces ample spice, coffee, the cocoa again, and very subtle, lingering smoke. The Highland Park 19 Dimensions is a whisky that requires patience to unlock its complexities. The bottle was a very kind gift from a good friend, so the question isn't whether I'd buy it again, but if I would purchase it at all. It costs around $225—if you can find it. I'd classify it as a desirable item rather than an essential one (with the acknowledgment that there's truly no "essential" spirit in the grand scheme of things). It's fantastic if cost is not a concern, and I'm very thankful to have it. I no longer have any Highland Park 18, which would have provided an obvious (and intriguing) comparison. 52.7% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Distilled 6/1999; bottled 6/2018. Cask # 501104; Bottle # 236/352. The pale color suggests no artificial coloring. Balvenie Portwood 21 Clear Pantone 153 in color; identical to the Bowmore 18. The nose is subtle, appearing delicately like Carl Sandberg's "Fog," with a wavering character that shifts between port and rich chocolate—as if by design—and adds mocha, sandalwood, and honey. The palate is a gradual entry into more chocolate, nearly masking the alcohol; there's virtually no spice in the transition to the finish, which is long and chocolate-forward. Did I mention chocolate? In my view, Balvenie represents a classic whisky benchmark with a contemporary enhancement—the various cask finishes it utilizes (rum, sherry, port). It blends tradition and modernity in a manner that prioritizes tradition through its composure and elegance. It displays a confidence that needs no boasting. The Portwood 21 aligns with that Balvenie philosophy. This whisky is not inexpensive, and can currently be bought for about $300. Would I repurchase it? I paid considerably less when I initially acquired it, but if cost were irrelevant, the answer is yes (to be clear, I wouldn't buy every spirit, even with unlimited resources). Balvenie Portwood 21 is wonderfully thought-provoking, partly due to its somewhat singular chocolate focus, and it invites contemplation if you wish to analyze it. Alternatively, you can simply savor the chocolate milkshake-like experience. 43% ABV. Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray) This whisky is the deepest in color among the selection, consistent with sherry cask aging; clear Pantone 160. Unmistakably sherry on the nose: toffee, chocolate, dates, strawberry preserves, and dark gingerbread (the baked good, not the cookie). Double the Cracker Jack flavor. The palate exhibits excellent intensity, concluding long and sweet, with chocolate, peanut brittle, and a pleasant hint of sweet café Cubano, featuring its underlying espresso bitterness. Costco is the world's largest liquor vendor, possessing the capacity to brand high-quality, unbranded products with its Kirkland label, as is the case here. Skeptics might scoff, but the value proposition is undeniable. It's unknown how Alexander Murray sourced this particular spirit, but its independent bottling doesn't necessarily mean it wasn't good enough for the original distiller. Even if it wasn't, the point is irrelevant: how many excellent 22-year-old whiskies can you find for $80? Just one. This one. Would I buy it again? I doubt this specific bottling is still available, but I purchased two initially, and this is the first bottle. So, yes. Incredible value. 46% ABV. Regarding price, the Kirkland (Costco) was the standout performer with its 22-year age statement and $80 price point. The Highland Park and Balvenie bottlings were both excellent, for distinct reasons. The Bowmore was clearly inferior to the other three—regardless of its "Islay" character (I greatly admire Laphroaig and Lagavullin). I concluded the tasting with one final, single sip of each in rapid succession, confirming my earlier lengthy assessments. The Bowmore remains unchanged; the Highland Park is by far the most robust and spirited; the Balvenie is rich and deeply satisfying; and the Kirkland is still remarkably good. Note: All spirits were sampled neat in a Glencairn glass.
Balvenie Portwood 21 Year
Whiskey Scotch Speyside 21 Year 40% ABV
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About this bottle
Balvenie Portwood 21 Year is a blend of whiskies initially matured in traditional oak casks, followed by a finishing period in ex-port wine pipes. These large oak containers typically hold between 500–600 liters, considerably more than a standard American oak barrel which has a capacity of about 120 liters.
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The Balvenie was established in 1892 by William Grant and sons in Speyside, Scotland. The distillery still operates today and continues to use traditional malting floors for turning barley, a practice not common among many distilleries. David C. Stewart, The Balvenie Malt Master, supervises the creation of their various expressions. Stewart has been with The Balvenie Distillery since 1962. His extensive knowledge and experience have guided the distillery for over 30 years, leading to numerous awards and establishing The Balvenie as a globally recognized distillery. Currently, The Balvenie produces over 20 different bottlings. The Whisky The Balvenie 21 Portwood was first introduced in 1996. This superb dram is the brainchild of the esteemed Malt Master David C. Stewart of The Balvenie Distillery. Since its inception 25 years ago, this whisky has garnered countless accolades and is considered by some to be Stewart’s finest achievement. Initially aged in American ex-bourbon barrels, the spirit is then transferred and finished in Port pipes under Mr. Stewart's meticulous supervision. The Balvenie 21 Portwood is non-chill filtered and bottled at 40% ABV. Color: Caramel My initial impression upon nosing was the warm and inviting nature of this dram. The aroma features delicate notes of caramel, plums, dark chocolate, oak tannins, dark cherry, toffee, orange peel, almonds, and subtle floral hints. The palate was quite intricate, yet smooth and silky, taking me on a journey of discovery. I detected further notes of dark chocolate, plums, dark fruits, vanilla, cinnamon, oak, and a touch of cracked pepper. The finish is long and remains welcoming. This soothing conclusion is accompanied by notes of oak, vanilla, and some leather.
Nose: fig, plum, dark cherry, apricot, light peat, a tiny bit of black tea, white grapes Palate: slightly thick honey, dried fruit, cranberries, almonds and pecans Finish: moderate peat, buttered toast, burnt caramel, candied ginger, bittersweet dark chocolate Value: A, Easily the most premium whiskey I’ve encountered and also the most expensive. The nose hints at both light and dark fruit with almost a minuscule trace of bitter black tea. The palate isn't quite as intricate, but the mouthfeel is somewhat thick with an almost creamy texture, and the finish is the highlight here. It possesses the ideal amount of peat for someone who appreciates the flavor but desires it complemented by other sweet subtleties. The sole drawback for me is the alcohol content. For over $300 a bottle in the US, I truly believe this should be bottled much closer to cask strength, around 45%. Will I purchase a bottle for a high-quality dram occasionally? I'm still considering but leaning towards no due to the low ABV.
Initially, it was somewhat disappointing. However, it improved as it sat in the glass. The aroma is delicate, sophisticated, and understated, featuring red fruits, red berries, butterscotch, buttery cookies, raisins, baking spices, and oak notes. These same flavors are present on the palate, which is slightly rough and has a medium-length finish. Ignore what a friend said about sharing; this is all for me! Bottle finished 3-1-25. While I truly enjoyed this bottle, and I typically don't factor price into my evaluation, charging over $250 for this is outrageous. I can find much more interesting whiskies for under $100.
I understand the appeal, it's quite light and has a silky smooth finish. Truly like butter. Its color is golden and visually pleasing. Nose: medicinal, I found it unappealing. Taste: indistinct Finish: as I mentioned, buttery, cooling from red fruit or strawberry notes. It's significantly improved with three drops of water. The floral notes become very prominent on the nose, offering a wonderfully fresh and clean aroma; the nose is its best feature! Taste has hints of more floral notes and a touch of pepper, with the same smooth finish. Ultimately, it's not for me at this price point, although that nose with three drops of water is amazing!
This was very confusing for me to taste, especially as a newcomer. The first sips were disappointing - sharp and hot. After my palate adjusted, I detected a really nice rich bark flavor from the port wood. The final sips were delicious, with vanilla from the bourbon barrels right down the middle. I like the light color. The nose is a bit hot with a touch of oak and vanilla. I just bought this bottle, so I'm looking forward to revisiting it and understanding it better.
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