Mortlach 15 Year (Game of Thrones Six Kingdoms)

I had not previously tried anything from Mortlach, but thankfully I can now mark them off my list, as a sample of this 15-year-old GoT novelty was kindly provided by a friend. It was matured in a mix of first-fill oloroso sherry and ex-bourbon casks and bottled at 46%. The aroma begins with smoky banana leaf-wrapped Hawaiian Kalua pork with cooked pineapples, followed by a slight sherry sulfur note, dark chocolate-covered figs, and stewed cinnamon apples, with a subtle smoke and minerality in the background. This is complemented by candied ginger, barrel spices, leather, and polished oak, with a moderate ethanol burn. The taste has a medium mouthfeel, starting sweet with caramel-covered baked apples, Hawaiian sweet rolls, and charred pineapple, before transitioning to the savory, smoky banana leaf-wrapped Hawaiian Kalua pork dish. This is followed by a light sherry sulfur and dark chocolate-covered figs, building into a mild spice that quickly subsides into candied ginger, barrel spices, leather, and polished oak, with a moderate ethanol burn. The finish is medium in length, featuring charcoal ambers, Hawaiian sweet rolls, stewed cinnamon caramel-covered apples, dark chocolate-covered figs, a touch of sulfur, ginger, leather, and polished oak. Upon first opening the sample, it smelled akin to mezcal with the aroma of a bowling alley or like the tire section at Walmart. However, after resting for 20 minutes in the glencairn, it evolved into a Hawaiian barbecue feast with fruits, a light sherry influence, minerality, and well-balanced oak that carries over to the palate with a surprising addition of Hawaiian sweet rolls, complementing the notes from the nose. The transition between flavors is harmonious, with a mild spice, and it finishes at a medium length without the meat, but the sweet bread, fruits, light sherry, and oak remain, nicely concluding this delightful liquid Hawaiian Luau. This was a true pleasure, and I've heard these can be found at a significant discount from their original retail price of $150. If you find one of these for under $100, acquire one or two, as I am now looking to add one to my collection.

It's been some time since Diageo's Game Of Thrones releases appeared, many with poor reviews, though a few were decent. I recall the high prices of some expressions, including this Mortlach 15yo Six Kingdoms. To be clear, I've sampled few Mortlachs previously, and I assumed this one would be quite good given its price point, which suggested a certain quality compared to other GOT bottlings. Fortunately, I waited and only purchased an inexpensive sample, as this whisky proved to be another disappointment from that collection. They aren't bad, but most aren't good either; only Talisker and Lagavulin were satisfactory. (However, it's difficult for Lagavulin and Talisker to produce poor single malts). This Mortlach 15yo Game Of Thrones, bottled at 46% ABV, has a golden hue. On the nose, it closely resembles a Cardhu: yellow apples, honey, and hay. It's fruity and floral, so floral it feels like pollen, causing an itchy sensation rather than spice. There are red berries, and the aroma shifts to grapefruit, appearing very fresh and fruity, like apple-infused tea. On the palate, I detected bitter tobacco and grass, very similar to a Cardhu. It also had old apples and some honey. After the initial sip, I noticed pepper, salt, and dried grass. A third sip evoked a honeyed cough syrup, which was actually appealing. The finish begins with a faint, almost spectral smoke note, accompanied by salt and dry grass, predominantly salty. It's medium in length with hints of cider, old apples, and bitter tobacco. To sum it up, it possesses the saltiness of an Oban, with some of the Speyside fruitiness and the tobacco/grassy notes found in a Cardhu. As I've mentioned, I haven't tasted many Mortlachs, and I'm beginning to suspect Diageo aims for a specific profile across their distilleries. I can envision this malt blending well with other peated malts for a Johnnie Walker blend. Neither impressed nor disappointed; it's simply an ordinary, unexciting dram, earning a score of 78 out of 100.

Tasted at Blair Athol Distillery Whisky Bar, April 25, 2024. Nose: A large, broad aroma showcasing caramel, malt, dried fruits, woody scents, and hints of baking spices. It's similar to fruitcake but less aromatic than Christmas cake. Adding water softens it and makes it quite smooth, less intense but still full and satisfying. There's a puff of smoky ash in the background. Palate: The initial taste is a balance of sweet fruits and spices with a noticeable good body. Malty notes come forward in the middle palate with clove, cinnamon, and allspice, but they are mild and warm, not sharp. With water, the palate, like the nose, becomes considerably sweeter with caramel, dried dates, strawberries, and toffee taking the lead. It possesses that elusive meaty depth characteristic of all Mortlach whiskies. Finish: Medium/Long. The spices from the late palate transition into a lingering sweetness of chocolate-covered toffee. Water shortens the finish but doesn't otherwise alter or detract from it. I had vowed never to engage with the Diageo Game of Thrones franchise tie-in whiskies, considering it a blatant marketing ploy. I felt at the time that even Diageo was somewhat indifferent to the entire venture, given that some of the series releases were merely core-range expressions with special labels. Eventually, I did sample the dreadful Johnnie Walker "White Walker" blend at a pop-up stand, which was enough to confirm my suspicions, so I avoided the rest of the series. However, after the initial eight expressions Diageo released, this final ninth installment received widespread praise. In summary, it is a very pleasant whiskey and likely the peak of the franchise tie-ins. You can still find this in some shops and online retailers, but it will be overpriced and offer poor value. Purchase the Gordon and Macphail Mortlach 15-year-old Official Label bottling instead. It will cost half as much, be easier to find, and be a superior whiskey overall. "Good": 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Score: 16/23. Nose: Pungent, a dry oloroso character with waxy lemon tartness, and some understated, slightly raw maltiness. The aroma is not particularly intricate or pleasing. Palate: Quite peppery, with notes of cinnamon and clove. A sweeter maltiness emerges with red berries, grassiness, a hint of waxy lemon, and a nutty depth akin to buckwheat that gradually unfolds. A subtle hint of barnyard may surface from the grass, though it's a stretch. A slightly bitter smokiness and a touch of moldy wood are also present. This reminds me of Glen Grant 26 (Carn Mor independent bottling) due to the spice layered over a generally smooth profile. However, the Glen Grant offers a fuller body, more refined and balanced character, richer fruit, and greater complexity, tasting more mellow and mature. Finish: Faint waxy lemon with glimpses of buckwheat nuttiness. The smoky bitterness lingers lightly to the end. Conclusion: A decent $70 spirit, but hardly worth $150. It's quite enjoyable, just lacking significant depth or indulgence. My current rating for the Glen Grant is 17, which feels appropriate. I had this spirit in the 15-17 range, but it's not quite as good as the Glen Grant, so I'm giving it a 16. For comparison, I tried a small amount of Tullibardine 25 (Cadenhead's independent bottling), finding it more complex, mellow, and rich with a pleasingly long finish – clearly the superior of the three. This is very close to Glen Grant 18, which I'm rating around a 16, possibly a 17. Loch Lomond 12 is also comparable. Resilient 15 is considerably better, making an 18 unlikely. Still, a 17 seems possible. Ultimately, I'm settling on a 16.

Upon the initial taste, this seemed quite mild, but it possesses a genuine potency and sharp character. The aroma is rich sherry, a touch of salt, and subtle hints of the characteristic Mortlach sulfur. The flavor profile is fascinating; it's deeply sherry-driven but includes intriguing elements typical of Mortlach. This whiskey has a briny quality and notes of caramel/toffee. I also detect cocoa and dates, which I associate with the classic Mortlach spirit. The Mortlach sulfur is present as well. The brine is quite salty, complemented by a smokiness that reminds me of smoking a cigar. There are also spicy notes. I also perceive an herbal, plant-like, fresh green wood flavor that was unexpected. These flavors are not subtle; they emerge and recede, much like rocks in turbulent seas, with certain notes splashing forth momentarily before subsiding, only to return. This is a truly interesting, robust, yet complex whiskey. It has a rich, lingering finish. It stands on its own, transcending its marketing. Furthermore, it possesses a mysterious character that aligns well with the Three-Eyed Raven. It's not for novices, but it could be accessible enough for a beginner to appreciate, especially someone who has tried other GoT-branded whiskeys and found they enjoyed scotch. It is certainly one of the standouts in the collection.

The Game of Thrones tie-in at least gave us a new Lagavulin with an age statement. It's not that different from the 8-year already available, but it was certainly the high point of the series. That is, until Diageo released this extra Morthlach. We got another bottling with a respectable age statement, so I'm thankful for the gimmick this time around. Nose: Apricot, pear, apple. Golden raisin. Toffee, malt, and vanilla. Butterscotch and honey. Sugar cookie. Almond and walnut. Coconut. Oak. Clove, nutmeg, white pepper. Palate: More of the same. Apple, pear, apricot, and golden raisin. White grape. Date and fig. Plum. Caramel, toffee, malt, and vanilla. Floral. Heavy on the cinnamon and oak. Orange citrus. Milk chocolate. Walnut and almond. Finish: Apple, pear, apricot, and golden raisin. Sugar cookie, almond, and walnut. Cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and oak. Moderate length. A solid whisky. No gimmick here. This and the Lagavulin are the best things to emerge from this collection. I'd say it's of comparable quality to the standard 16 Year. First-fill sherry casks are always welcome, and the bourbon barrel finish adds a nice touch. At $126, this is considerably more expensive than the 16. No credit is given for exclusivity or marketing—it must succeed as a whisky on its own merits. And it does. It's not an exceptional value, but it's a fair one. I have this rated at 4.25/5, the same as my score for the 16. Well done by Mortlach.