Lagavulin 12 Year The Ink of Legends (2023 Special Release)

Priced around $200, this 2023 Lagavulin 12-year cask strength release, The Ink of Legends, deviates from the traditional Islay peat profile for which Lagavulin 12 is known. While previous iterations, like the 2022 Flames of the Phoenix with its virgin oak finish, maintained the recognizable character, this 2023 bottling, finished in Don Julio Anejo Tequila barrels, presents a different experience. The nose retains Lagavulin's saline, peppery, and robust character, seemingly enhanced by the tequila barrels without drawing undue attention. However, the palate introduces a stronger tequila presence, making it difficult to definitively identify as a traditional Lagavulin 12. This expression is notably sweeter, with a honied agave flavor that clashes with the typical oak, ash, and citrus notes. While it may aim to evoke tequila's common pairings of salt and lime, this combination is not particularly appealing in a whiskey. Although not entirely blasphemous, the finishing cask seems unnecessary, adding confusion rather than enhancement to the palate and finish. Despite its $200 price tag, this bottle is not worth it, failing to justify its cost and instead confusing a classic spirit, likely in an attempt to appeal to a younger demographic.

This particular bottling is a benchmark annual release for me, one I eagerly anticipate each year. Last year introduced a virgin oak influence, and it seems these variations are continuing. This expression utilizes Don Julio Anejo casks. I often detect vegetal and agave-like notes in Islay whiskies aged in more neutral casks, so enhancing those characteristics should be interesting. Nose: A powerful burst of Vanilla custard and sugar cookie. Underlying spice is present, like cinnamon. Black bean and red pepper chili. Vegetal peat and sea salt. Salted caramel and saltwater taffy. Lemon and lime. Gala apple and raspberry. Cherry sweetness. Some expected fruit notes appeared, alongside unexpected ones like ash, hazelnut, milk chocolate, and toffee. Palate: Saltwater taffy and saltwater caramel. Significant brine, sea salt, and peat. Heavy grapefruit and lime. Campfire smoke and ash dominate over smoke. Iodine and a band-aid note. Milk chocolate and caramel. Golden Teddy Graham. Pear. Golden raisin and cranberry. Almond. Some grassy, vegetal notes are present, with a scent similar to freshly cut grass. Hazelnut and toasted almond. White pepper and cinnamon. Finish: Hazelnut leads, followed by vanilla, milk chocolate, saltwater taffy, and salted caramel. Brown sugar, white pepper, and cinnamon. Grassy, vegetal notes return. Black pepper, clove, nutmeg, and oak emerge, creating an exceptionally long finish. Objectively, it's a solid whisky. I appreciate the distillery's effort to keep this line fresh. It's also evident that the parent company encouraged in-house collaborations. When these aren't executed artfully, I'm not a fan. This was a good attempt, feeling more like a fresh take on the product than a forced crossover. Judging it solely on its own merits, I'd find it a perfectly decent whisky. However, coming from what is arguably my favorite annual release series, my expectations are higher. My primary issue is that the Tequila cask imparts a youthful, grassy quality rather than the agave, bell pepper, and citrus notes I anticipated. It provided the distillery's signature citrus alongside other typical characteristics, with a minor but noticeable youthful drawback. It's still a good whisky, just the first in this line to receive less than a perfect rating. 4.25.

Is there really no 12-year? Regardless... another sample for review. On the nose, it's classic Lag 12, but then the finish is somewhat vegetal. I don't think I need to explain what a Lag 12 smells like. However, that vegetal note is odd. Perhaps a bit more sweetness is present. It's strangely familiar and not ruined by the tequila finish, yet... Lag 12 has shown that even the smallest change can turn it from a masterpiece into a disaster. On the palate, it's indeed "smooth." By that, I mean unlike the 2019 version where the astringency went crazy, this is very creamy and easy to drink, much like Lion's Fire. It's also sweeter than anticipated. The vanillas and the Lagavulin take on iodine are subdued. The smoke is also less pronounced. That said, the peat and smoke might be higher here. The finish is considerably longer than the 2017, which I poured alongside for comparison. There's an unwelcome touch of bitterness. And I believe, despite a great viscous mouthfeel, better than the 2017, and despite the longer, fuller finish, that note is just off-putting. Every time I return to the 2017, it's like a breath of fresh air; it's simply... better. Forget the flavors; it's about how the whisky comes together. There's a certain balance, structure, and quality of maturation of the distillate that sometimes gets lost in our endless tasting notes. That's not what Lag 12 is about; it's not about tasting notes. I think I underestimated the Lag 12 when I scored the 2017 and 2018. So, I'll give this a 2.75, but I believe it's slightly behind both. I gave the 2020 a 3.75, which I think might be a bit high but is very fair because it was so good. Any conclusions here, as this one deserves it! This is a very nice rendition of Lag 12 that isn't nearly as off-profile and strange as I expected. It has some off notes and it's different, but the 2019 was more off and strange than this is. If prices weren't escalating so much, this would honestly be one I'd buy to remember later. But they have... so pass.

I don't understand the purpose of using tequila casks for this finishing. It contributed nothing. I couldn't detect any hint of tequila's characteristic grassy herbal flavor, either by smell or taste. Was this a result of the original Lagavulin being subpar and requiring a fix? Or perhaps they used very lightly used, fourth-fill tequila barrels? Was the intention to compensate for a flawed original Lagavulin or to add a marketing angle of "look, a new finish" without alienating Lag fans with a significant alteration? Regardless, this is essentially cask strength Lagavulin. The finish adds no value. In fact, it detracts from what could be a truly exceptional CS Lagavulin. However, it remains a good Lagavulin. It has a rich mouthfeel, saline and briny notes, earthy peat smoke, and citrus. It's a quality Lagavulin that I would gladly drink anytime. But, the price is not justifiable. I only purchased a 200ml bottle, and I doubt I would buy the 700ml or 750ml. It's too expensive for what it offers. You're paying for a cask strength version and a premium for the finishing, yet the finishing has no impact on this spirit. Final recommendation: avoid this one. It's a waste of money. It's a pour to be enjoyed at a bar or restaurant, or sampled from a friend who happens to own a bottle. Consider the CS version finished in bourbon barrels instead. That is pure Lagavulin, raw and potent.

I'll give away the ending right now: this is another flawless whisky from the king of Islay. This bottling, part of the 2023 Special Releases, was matured in Don Julio's Tequila Casks and tells a story of Aztec and Mayan tattoos. It's bottled at 56.4% ABV. On the nose, a clear tequila profile is evident: gooseberries, leather shoes, school glue, liquid paper. It's like burnt pineapple. The next aroma is difficult to describe, but I'd liken it to bug spray. Merthiolate. After the first sip, a lit cigar note emerged, along with floor detergent and pear peel. On the palate, it starts with chocolate, herbal notes, green tea, and grass. The second sip was slightly less intense. Herbal smoke; tequila and Jaggermeister notes were present. The aftertaste is dominated by smoke and BBQ wings. It's long and salty, with a tequila presence. In summary, this was truly extraordinary. The previous Special Release wasn't as impressive, but this one was a definite home run. The power, complexity, and overall balance of this dram are out of this world. My score is, naturally, 100 out of 100.

Nose: Features floral notes, minerality, brine, and citrus zest. With some air, vegetal agave becomes apparent, alongside a prominent, smoky peat and vanilla. Further contemplation reveals more smoke and campfire aromas. Five drops of water enhance the agave, reduce some sweetness and bitter citrus notes, and bring out more malt complexity. Palate: Tequila barrel influence and agave are noticeable but well-integrated, with crystalline brown sugar, vanilla, and the classic, refined peat of Lagavulin. Floral notes and grapefruit peel appear as it transitions to the finish, with a salty character. After adding water, the peat and salinity intensify. A larger sip reveals a robust agave note. Finish: Light, floral, briny, and vegetal, with a classic Lagavulin peat. It evokes the sensation of being inside the damp, musty hull of a pirate ship.