Kentucky Owl Bourbon (Batch #8)

The origin of this brand is as follows: Charles Mortimer Dedman established Kentucky Owl Sour Mash Bourbon Whiskey in 1879 and experienced success until the pre-Prohibition era of 1916. He, along with many of his contemporaries, was instructed to halt production and transfer his aged spirits to government storage. To compound this misfortune, those storage facilities were mysteriously destroyed by fire. Dedman never received compensation for the lost whiskey and never returned to distilling. In essence, 98 years later, his great-great-grandson revived the brand, acquired sourced whiskey, and voilà. I sampled it neat initially, as I typically do, to grasp its core character before often spitting and allowing my palate to adjust. This spirit, even at over 60% ABV, required none of that. It displayed remarkable balance between alcohol and flavor. Adding a generous amount of water significantly enhanced its profile. Now, as I frequently mention, Dr. Pepper, cough syrup, and menthol are not profiles I favor, yet this dram embodies them... and I still found it appealing! That's a testament to brilliant craftsmanship when a spirit can incorporate flavor combinations one dislikes and still be enjoyable. Well done! I checked the price and was taken aback, realizing why the sample wasn't inexpensive. Even more impressively, this is batch 8. Typically, with sourced whiskey, the initial batches or runs are exceptional, and then, over time, the quality diminishes significantly. Not with this one. Apparently, they don't adhere to a fixed flavor profile; instead, they source excellent stock and build the profile around it. This approach undoubtedly contributes to maintaining high quality. As I continue to drink it, my personal aversion to the specific flavor notes begins to outweigh the excellent blending effort, causing my rating to decrease from 4.25 to a range of 3.75 to 4. Nevertheless, if you encounter it at a bar, I highly recommend trying it.

We had the privilege of tasting this high-priced bourbon at Old Owl Tavern, a bar and restaurant within the Beaumont Inn. The proprietor of the Inn and Tavern is the same individual who revitalized the Kentucky Owl brand and selects the batches for this highly sought-after product (though it has since been acquired by Stolichnaya). Essentially, we have here a sourced bourbon chosen by someone with deep industry connections spanning generations, yet it commands an extremely high price. Online information suggests it's a combination of at least four different batches, with ages ranging from 5 years – which is quite young! – to 14 years. Its striking initial impression evokes a berry-picking excursion to a rural estate, with fleeting early notes of strawberry, brown sugar, buttercream, and shortcake that highlight its sweet character, showcasing the fruit-forward profile of young, premium spirit. After about 15 minutes, a considerable amount of dry cedar and guaiac wood become apparent. The aroma is its strongest point, as the taste reverts to a traditional yet spicy profile: caramel, charred oak, hints of chili oil and cinnamon, with no significant astringency. It almost tastes better after swallowing, as dark fruit and cherry flavors reappear to complement the charred oak and chocolate mingling at the back of the throat. This is a fantastic bourbon but a poor value.

I now understand why people like Kentucky Owl. It's unlike any bourbon I've previously tasted. I sampled this without knowing what it was, and at first, I didn't think much of it...but the more I drank, the more I enjoyed it. Nose: Cherry pie, corn dust, caramel, spice, an earthy minerality. Palate: An initial wave of heat strikes the front of your palate...it feels like a codeine cough syrup type of tingling. Think menthol. I enjoy barrel proof bourbon, but I've never encountered one like this. This tingle persists throughout the rest of the tasting experience. You'll be able to identify some other notes, but this is the main event. The mouthfeel is quite thin compared to my expectations. It's not thick and unctuous...I was expecting a caramel explosion with a luxurious mouthfeel...I imagined something like a Knotter 12 type bourbon. Finish: The finish on this fades quickly, but then remains with you for the rest of the pour. As I mentioned, it's truly a singular experience. Not the best mouthfeel...not the best nose...however, the overall experience is unlike anything I've ever tasted.

The aroma falls somewhere on the spectrum between old dusty leather, a deep, dark caramel, buttercream frosting, and freshly baked blueberry pie. Well damn. I was really hoping this wasn’t going to be that good. The palate is similar, coming across like Riesen chocolate caramels, burnt sugars, and a heavy hit of vanilla, allspice, and toasted walnuts. There’s also a note that reminds me of a slightly overcooked blueberry pie, where the filling has bubbled through the crust and overcooked slightly. The palate, while delicious, doesn’t quite match up to the promise of the aroma, which is really the star here. The finish is long and spicy. Surprisingly hot even for its 121 proof, but laden with baking spices, caramel, and barrel char. After a moment though it transitions into toasted marshmallow, campfire, and slightly burned pie crust. A long amazing finish. A delicious pour, though perhaps not worth the $300 asking price. Definitely worth trying in a bar though.

At 121 proof, every pour of Batch #8 brings forth fire from the front and complexity of character across the finish. The burn is but a false front to ward off those whose palettes prefer a less-wise bourbon whiskey. Studious sippers will uncover layer after layer of balance and subtlety perfectly blended to provide notes of leather, caramel, nut, and vanilla. The corn on the aroma hints of sweetness that settles smoothly after all else has faded out.

The nose begins with rye spiciness, brown sugar, a hint of caramel and vanilla, all harmonized by oak. The palate is mouth-coating with oak, intense rye spiciness and cinnamon, underscored by brown sugar, caramel, vanilla and cherry syrup. The finish is long and spicy with oak and cherry syrup which lingers and gives way to vanilla and toffee.