Belgrove Rye Whiskey

Aroma is bright, crisp, and spicy, initially presenting pickle brine, spearmint, peppermint, and sourdough. These are balanced by smoother, buttery, and herbal notes. A subtle sweetness like candy cane underlies it, with a faint whiff of tobacco. Taste has a light and delicate arrival, echoing the initial aroma: crisp spice, mint, dill, and caraway. A honeyed sweetness is also present. The development reveals more intense spices, including walnut oil, white pepper, and oak tannins. The texture starts silky smooth, then becomes drier and more tannic, with an astringency like over-steeped black tea, yet it maintains an oily quality. Finish is medium, oily/dry and mildly tannic, eventually transitioning to a warm, soft aftertaste. This is an excellent rye whisky, distinct from others I've tried. It possesses a disarmingly light character and a fresh, crisp quality, unlike the robust, dark ryes from some producers. It's elegant and composed, yet full of flavor and complexity. Approach this rye with an open mind, judging it on its own merits. In many ways, it resembles mezcal more than whisky. The distillery is situated north of Kempton in Tasmania, approximately 50km north of central Hobart. It's owned and operated by a key figure in the modern Australian whisky scene. The operation is so artisanal it makes other craft distilleries seem mainstream. Every stage of production is handled personally by the owner. The farm provides the grain, and rainwater is collected for process water. He undertakes malting, mashing, fermenting, and distilling using equipment he constructed himself, including stills made from recycled copper and direct-fired using waste cooking oil. All distillery power comes from biofuel. He also coopers and chars his own casks, bottles the whisky, and hand-writes the labels. A video search for the distillery is highly recommended; it's quite remarkable. This meticulous approach would be mere novelty if not for the quality of the whisky – it is genuinely good. Production runs are small and truly batch-based. While the official listing for this expression states 46% abv, it varies by batch, as does the exact profile. The sample I tasted was 45% and bottled on March 19, 2020. It's always 100% rye, with no added enzymes, and uses the 1800s-era sour mash fermentation technique. Obtaining these whiskies can be challenging, even locally, as they sell out rapidly. The distillery has a dedicated cult following among serious Australian whisky enthusiasts, and it's unlikely they'll appear in overseas markets. However, if visiting Australia, seeking them out is highly recommended. The producer presented a near core range at the 2021 Sydney Whisky Show, and this review concludes a series of 5 expressions tasted there. This was tasting #20 at the event. “Good”: 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Bright and crisp on the nose with a candy-like quality. The finish is smooth.