Arran rare batch Calvados cask

This distillery has been groundbreaking for a newer operation, offering an excellent introductory 10 year old, three no-age-statement cask finishes, and two outstanding no-age-statement cask strength expressions. Their older bottlings may not be as remarkable, likely due to using their initial distillates, but I anticipate their 18-25 year olds will improve. The 'Rare Batches' are where things get truly interesting, though sometimes fall short. My third attempt follows a 15 year old Bordeaux (too much oak) and a 15 year old Argonne (fantastic to me). This is a 17 year old Calvados. Eight years after launching, the distillery released its first limited-edition Calvados Cask Finish. This 17 Year Old Rare Batch Calvados Cask raises the stakes, having been fully matured in Christian Drouin Calvados casks. These casks originate from a family in Pont-l’Eveque, Normandy, with generations of Calvados production. Intriguingly, Calvados casks were once prohibited, though the distillery utilized them previously. Now, their use is officially permitted. Released in late 2022 with only 4200 bottles, thankfully some made it to my region, and as a fan, I managed to get a sample. If it's good, I'll buy a bottle. Exciting! For clarity, Calvados is an apple or pear brandy; during WWI, it was confiscated for explosives due to its high alcohol content. Nose: Thick and syrupy, the aroma starts with pure apple turnover, which is quite enjoyable. Beyond that, expect buttery, creamy custard, and soft, subtly fragrant wood notes reminiscent of jasmine tea or cedar/sandalwood (similar to the Argonne). A base of honeyed malt provides a foundation for gentle, subtle wood spice. With time, a hint of milk chocolate emerges. There's no indication of high alcohol. Curiously, a dry glass yielded an unpleasant, grainy, and sweaty scent. Palate: The initial taste is slightly viscous with a honeyed texture. Immediate wood spice awakens the palate, evolving into wonderfully perfumed and floral notes. Flavors of fresh apples, more honey, vanilla, and creamy fudge appear. Subsequent sips reveal a sticky sweetness balanced by a drying tannic woodiness. The distillery's signature malt and ginger notes emerge, along with a subtle nutty characteristic. A refreshing berry undertone is present, evoking a very diluted strawberry cider. Finish: Long and syrupy with an increasing ginger warmth. Light malty honey, apple (as expected), and perfumed wood notes linger. This spent seventeen years in a specially selected oak barrel. It seems brandy/cognac cask maturation can be inconsistent. The previous Arran rare batches were similarly mixed. I anticipated something exceptionally rich and decadent, but it felt somewhat superficial. While undeniably clean, crisp, and delivering clear notes of rich apple brandy, it doesn't quite reach its potential. I appreciated the appearance of the distillery's honeyed malt and ginger notes. The berry freshness was elusive, which could have been a highlight if more pronounced, but it failed to fully develop. What is present is well-executed; the standout elements were the perfumed florals and aromatic wood. Significant drawbacks include a lack of depth and, like the Rare Batch Bordeaux, an excessive amount of tannic wood. It's a solid drink, but I won't be spending AUD$299 on a bottle. Comparing it to the Balvenie 16 Pineau Cask Finish, I'm surprised by the significant overlap. The Balvenie, one year younger and with only a brief period in pseudo-cognac casks, captures a similar essence for AUD$50 less. The Arran excels slightly in its floral and aromatic notes and its unobtrusive high proof.