Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 Year Batch 4 (2022)

Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #31 Aroma: Gentle, fragrant peat smoke with hints of aromatic wood (sandalwood, camphor) and no harshness. Wisps of coastal farm: salt and low tide shores, leather, sweet dark earth, heather honey, and lemon trees. A touch of lapsang souchong tea, perique tobacco, then menthol, dark chocolate, and overripe apricots in the background. Taste: Soft arrival with gingerbread, toasted marshmallow, cooked grains, and molasses, all enveloped in a light layer of fragrant smoke. The smoke becomes more pronounced as it develops in the mouth, intensifying with further sips. Black pepper, smoked fish, herbs, dried lemon, anise, malt extract, menthol, mineral salts. The texture is oily yet drying, with very fine tannic resin notes. Finish: Medium. Peppery peat, leather, pine, asphalt, fennel, and spice notes. The initial sweetness of the arrival gives way to a long, dry, elegant aftertaste. Finally, I've finished compiling the notes from this year's Sydney Whisky Show. It took me five months, and now I can finally get to the three boxes of samples I've had waiting. This is the first batch of Traigh Bhan I've had the opportunity to sample, and I intentionally saved it for the end of the day at the show. I was likely a bit tipsy by then, even though I was using the spittoons, but the exceptional quality of this whisky was undeniable. My initial impression was surprise because it doesn't display its age in the same manner as other Islay spirits. Most change their profile in some way (for example, Laphroaig loses its phenols and reveals its fruity ester notes more clearly). In contrast, older Ardbeg tastes precisely like younger Ardbeg, just with more balance and restraint. To be more precise, this was very similar to the "For Discussion" 8-year-old expression I tasted just before, but with an additional 10-12 years of aging. An outstanding whisky, a pleasure to taste, and at the price, almost tempting... but not quite. "Excellent" : 88/100 (4.5 stars)

To say I was underwhelmed would be a massive understatement. It simply didn't present as a 19-year-old whisky at all concerning the nose, palate, mouthfeel, and finish. It lacks complexity. The peat was far more pronounced than I would anticipate from a whisky with such a significant age statement. The influence from the "higher proportion" of oloroso sherry casks was almost entirely absent, and I got the impression that the majority of casks used for this (both sherry and bourbon) were second or even third fills. On the nose - peat, brine, citrus, pineapple. Palate - a bit of generic sweetness, which almost immediately transitions into peat and bitter tannins. Finish - short. Bitter peat and damp oak. Is this assessment a bit harsh? Possibly. But I expect significantly more from a 19-year-old whisky with such a steep price tag. I could have purchased three bottles of Ledaig 18 for the same amount, and that is a vastly superior whisky in every aspect.

It carries all the expected Ardbeg characteristics: the lingering smoke of dying embers, mellow peat, and bright citrus. The extensive maturation, undoubtedly the nineteen years in the cask, imparts significant wood influence. There's a subtle yet persistent bitterness, likely from the barrel. While it's a commendable whisky, the price point of $270-300 left me anticipating something more. I preferred the prior batch of this expression. The finish endures indefinitely… I only wish the lingering taste were more pleasant. I'm primarily detecting bitter, tarry smoke, though it sounds worse than it is.

The aroma consists of dried cedar shavings and blackstrap molasses, with a faint salty undertone. The taste is smooth, almost velvety, with brief notes of red apples, shortbread, and brown sugar before concluding with a pleasant surge of vanilla toffee and oak, all tied together by a subtle smokiness from start to finish. It's almost too smooth to be Ardbeg, yet still recognizable. Quite good, and skillfully crafted.

Pleasant smoky aroma, the palate is somewhat lacking but not unexpected for a 19-year-old, with a nice medicinal finish.

Unforgettable. Paired with a cigar, good company, and wonderful individuals.