Kilchoman Loch Gorm (2019 Edition)

Nose: Calm and unhurried woody peat smoke, smoke-dried fruit (is that a thing?), oiled leather, subtle baking spices, and candied orange peel. There's also an earthy, almost musty undertone. Adding water reveals strong sweet berry notes. [The empty glass retains a very faint smoky aroma]. Palate: Sweet, mildly spicy smoke with good body and numerous dark fruity notes in the base. It possesses a buttery quality, and a fig jam note emerges as it develops. The oloroso sherry casks are clearly identifiable, and the texture is oily but balanced by slight dry tannins. Adding water is highly recommended as it further develops the palate and certainly increases the smokiness. There are no traces of plastic or metallic notes, nor any intrusive alcohol heat. Finish: Medium. The jammy note gradually transforms into berry compote on the aftertaste. Lingering sweet smoke is the final impression, and adding water enhances this. This is the most dark-fruit-forward Loch Gorm I've sampled. It is undeniably a good whisky and arguably the most complex and complete bottling to date. It's also moving steadily away from its origins towards Sanaig's profile. I believe I enjoyed this whisky more a few years ago when it was less refined and more raw. Previously, the peat smoke had a brisk, wild woodiness, but it appears to be becoming more subdued with each release. In my review of the 2018 bottling, I noted that compared to the 2017, the "bonfire smoke had moved from the beach to the farmyard." Now, it seems to be smoldering in the forest, burning on damp earth. Over time in the glass, the wood-smoke character of the new make begins to reassert itself over the cask influence, but it's not the immediate impact it once was. It gave me an impression of complacency rather than eagerness. However, adding water significantly improved this dram, and I would strongly suggest adding half to a full teaspoon. There was no Australian allocation for this release, so I have not included a price, but based on previous years, it would likely have been around AUS$175. Many thanks to a friend for the tasting sample. "Very Good": 86/100 (4 stars)

So, I like or perhaps even love the standard version. It's one of my favorite low-priced peated whiskies, and as I mature as a drinker and become... well, a bit of a snob, it remains one I still very much enjoy and return to. That said, I've always kind of overlooked this one due to the price, and well, I'm not sure it's going to really work out. So, I took the plunge, let's find out. Nose - I detect a distinct mint right away. It's spearmint. A touch of fruity elements but subtle. Then a slightly medicinal or putty-like peat. There's a lot going on, but it's not an overwhelming aroma. Taste - Overly oaked, charred, BBQ, with a sweet BBQ sauce (some citrus and salty elements are definitely present). That's this glass in a nutshell. Then the finish is like candy cigarettes, light oak, and just sugar crystals. There's a lingering slightly earthy and oak finish here too. Now I can see someone picking up some chocolate, some earth, a lot of dried leaves, and wow, it's menthol and spearmint all the way through. Do I like this more than the standard version? Honestly, not really. It's a bit more complex, and there's some older whisky in it. The higher sherry content, however, doesn't really help this one in my opinion. It doesn't hurt it either; it's just a different expression. This is a HARD whisky to score. Okay, so talking out loud, it's incredibly complex, so 4 stars. The complexity has a lot to do with off and youthful notes. So maybe 2 stars? The alcohol is perfectly balanced, and the whisky drinks far more full-bodied, rich, and intense than any 46% whisky, so 3 stars? Hell, I'm going with 3.25 stars here. There's a case to be made that this is far better, and a case that I'm overrating it. Overall, a good buy at about $100. Really complex and a must-try for peat lovers. Will I buy again? You know, I'll start buying each year's batch, but maybe not backups.

Upon pouring my initial serving of the Loch Gorm, a small amount spilled, which I collected on my hands and rubbed together before inhaling deeply. This immediately piqued my interest. Heavy campfire smoke, reminiscent of a BBQ grill the morning after cooking a pork roast, dominated the scent. After considering the aroma on my hands for a few minutes, I brought my nose to the glass. To my surprise, the smoke and peat were present on the nose but were balanced by dark fruit, sultanas, oak, pepper, and some earthiness. The sherry cask influence is beautiful, adding fruity complexity and unexpected depth to this peated Scotch. Reports suggest this year's release includes casks from earlier years, contributing depth and dark fruit from age, alongside the sharper smoke and peat from younger barrels. This integration is skillful and to my taste. The palate is equally impressive, with a rich, oily mouthfeel confirming it's unfiltered. Notes of dark fruit, earthy peat, smoked meat, ash, brandied sultanas, brine, and oak spice are present. The finish has oak and a slight astringency. I hesitated to purchase this, having read mixed reviews despite enjoying a previous finish from the same distillery. Whiskey appreciation is subjective; I heard a coworker today express a fondness for a brand I personally dislike. Therefore, I decided to give the distillery the benefit of the doubt and bought a bottle. I'm pleased with my decision and will enjoy these servings.

(A tasting of three Kilchoman expressions: Machir Bay, Sanaig, and Loch Gorm, 2020 release.) Nose: Very inviting with the delightful signature Kilchoman peat, which I much prefer over the established Islay malts from Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and others. Its quality is comparable to the peat style of Bunnahabhain, which I also appreciate. Additionally, there's a very dark and dry sherry presence, almost devoid of fruitiness. Also notes of cold iced black tea with pomegranate, or perhaps hibiscus flowers, which are more tart than sweet. Very intriguing. Palate: A pleasant fruity balance of sweet and red fruits/berries. Definitely more approachable than Machir Bay, as it equally emphasizes both the sweet and woody peat elements. Certainly very enjoyable. However, the alcohol is quite potent. Intense but not smooth, despite being nicely malty sweet – actually, a burnt malt character. Finish: Long and dominated by peat, but immediately followed by a dry sherry depth. Highly recommended as a fantastic Islay alternative for individuals (like myself) who cannot appreciate the rubber/plastic/tennis ball/band-aid/ash/cold smoke profile of other malts from that unique island. Very interesting, profound, and intense.

At 37 years old, I've accepted certain things won't happen in my lifetime. Perhaps spotting the Yeti, Ecuador winning the Fifa World Cup, or a subpar Kilchoman Islay Whisky. They consistently produce amazing whisky. This time, I had the opportunity to taste the 2019 Loch Gorm, which is matured in 20 Oloroso sherry casks from 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2011. Only 15,000 bottles of this expression were produced, and it's a fantastic dram. Bottled at 46% ABV, it has a deep copper color. On the nose; simply impressive. Leather, new shoes, a fresh can of tennis balls, tar, moss, citric lemon, naphthalene, sand, and seaweed. It possesses a very strong peaty character. On the palate, it's perfection. Sweet molasses, raisins coated in chocolate, and smoke. A second sip revealed strawberries, toffee, and more molasses. All the sherry influence was present here, with a subtle smoke surrounding it. The aftertaste is smoky. Cigarettes, ashes, a log bonfire. Very maritime. Amazing. Overall, this is an incredible whisky from the youngest operational distillery on Islay, which seems to have captured the entire Islay profile and added depth and boldness with the sherry influence. The palate of this is delicious. My score is 95 out of 100. Marvelous.

This distillery has been a personal favorite, consistently delivering high-quality products at a fair price. We don't often acknowledge distilleries that maintain such consistent output across their range while remaining accessible in price. This particular expression, their Loch Gorm, features the desirable combination of peat and sherry maturation, resulting in a smoky sweetness. This sample was provided by a friend. My initial experience with Loch Gorm years ago was intense but well-crafted. This bottling is different: creamier and more refined. It has aged gracefully, adding elegance to the peat. You get the classic smoke upfront, but the mouthfeel is exceptionally smooth, like liquid butter. If you can find it around this price point, it's an obvious purchase. Look past the hype of newer releases from other brands. This is superior. Thank you to my friend for the taste!