Allt-A-Bhainne 1997 23 year old Cask #1107 (Rolling Cask)

Aroma: Incredibly vibrant and layered. Herbal honey (acacia and leatherwood), nougat, beeswax, gooseberries, cherries, lilac, jasmine, apple blossom, sandalwood, Cointreau, freshly grated ginger, tamarind, mango preserve, and an all-encompassing, hauntingly familiar scent of strawberry gummy candies! What an aroma! Adding water doesn't significantly change the profile but increases its body and density. Palate: Slightly spicy, sweet, and fruity upon entry, like mild mango chutney. It develops complexity with a fascinating progression of makrut lime leaf, basil, bay leaf, crystallized ginger, glacé pineapple, pine resin, unfiltered olive oil, honey, camphor, sweet cinnamon, and a touch of oak. This is not a simple profile dominated by caramel and vanilla; it's more akin to a tropical fruit curry. The texture is rich, creamy, and enveloping. Water enhances the creamy texture and smooths the palate without unbalancing or muting the flavors. Finish: Extremely long, spicy, and sweet, focusing on fresh tropical fruit and honey. A lingering aftertaste of marshmallow and fruit salad with a slight tannic presence. This whisky is a zesty, energetic, lively gymnast, showcasing youthful vigor that completely contradicts its 23 years of age, yet possesses a simultaneous maturity that commands authority and control. It's the perfect harmony of distillate and cask, bottled at the peak of its maturation. The individual responsible for the wood management deserves recognition. Allt-a-Bhainne is not widely known, and until recently, there were no official bottlings. There have been only about 40 expressions over the last 40 years, all from independent bottlers, and they have varied significantly. I've tasted it a few times previously and wasn't particularly impressed, but this is an exceptional dram and undoubtedly the finest Allt-a-Bhainne I have ever sampled. It was also the most intriguing spirit I encountered at this year's Whisky Show. However, a companion who was also at the show that day did not enjoy this at all and seemed puzzled by my enthusiasm. I can understand why, as it doesn't present a typical 'old' whisky character, and the oak influence is not overpowering. Fans of Dalmore or Macallan would likely dislike this dram, but those who prefer Springbank or Mortlach might be captivated, as I was. The aroma shimmers with intensity, poised on the very edge of caricature due to its extreme floral and fruity nature. The sensation of smelling sour candy or Haribo gummy bears is unavoidable yet feels completely natural, self-assured, and not at all strange. It's almost as if this whisky is playfully interacting with you, teasing and whispering, 'You want to know my limits? This is how far I'll go!' The palate offers a breathtakingly clean and fresh arrival that initially bursts onto the palate like delicate, tannic popping candy before instantly settling into a complex, unusual, yet very well-balanced and satisfying profile. There's a little heat from the high proof, but you would never guess it was 60.2% ABV. I tasted it blind the first time and estimated it to be in the low 50s. Some high-proof whiskies are excessively tight and require a lot of water to open up and reveal their character. In contrast, this is approachable, relaxed, and immediately revealing when neat, yet it continues to evolve and present new facets when diluted. Every sip was a fresh adventure and a delight. My tasting #11 at the Sydney Whisky Show on May 15, 2021. Sampled from bottle 123/324, distilled January 7, 1997, and bottled November 26, 2020, for Rolling Cask Whisky. At AUD$240 for a 500ml bottle, it's not inexpensive (equivalent to US$280 for a 750ml bottle), but in my opinion, it's worth every penny. I hesitated to purchase it at that price and missed out, and I regret it now. 'Excellent, just a whisker short of Outstanding': 89/100 (4.75 stars).