Port Dundas 1988 28 Year Clan Denny (Douglas McGibbon)

Number 108 on the newly expanded SDT is Port Dundas. This Lowland distillery was established in 1811 and was torn down two centuries later in 2011. For a period in the late 1800s, it was Scotland's largest distillery. Since its closure was recent, there are still bottles on the market, but they are all from independent bottlers as I don't believe any official bottlings were ever released. This 28-year-old single grain scotch comes from the Clan Denny range by Douglas McGibbon & Co. It's a single cask (cask# DMG11753, a refill hogshead) filled in October 1988 and bottled in May 2017. It has a 50% ABV, is non-chill filtered, and has a natural yellow-gold color. My bottle is number 6 of 249. On the topic of bottles, this one has an ornate and very classy label. Advice for my fellow SDT members: Like a well-aged single malt, this single grain needs time in the glass to collect itself before it's ready. Would you expect someone to get out of bed and immediately face a tough opponent? No, they need to warm up first! The aroma initially has a bite of grain alcohol that quickly fades. Wood spices like ginger, cinnamon, clove, and anise follow. There's light vanilla, toffee, burnt sugar, caramel, and maple. After more time, the vanilla becomes much more noticeable, along with some brown sugar. Caramelized banana, some light pineapple, tobacco, and dry grass appear. Buttery corn and a slightly meaty scent are present. I detect a familiar malty biscuit smell even though there's no malted barley, which is strange. Some faint menthol or eucalyptus rounds everything out. It's not bad at all. The taste has an intense arrival with just the right amount of warmth, but it's also quite fruity. Plenty of coconut and pineapple, with something like grapefruit but less sour or citrusy. Possibly kiwi with some honeydew and green grapes. Vanilla and some bitter tannins, but they work with the profile rather than against it. Ginger, oak, toffee, a bit of pepper, and a touch of honey. Sweet corn (though I believe this is wheat-based), clove, and more ginger. A medium-bodied mouthfeel that is creamy, oily, and dry. The finish is medium-long with toffee, vanilla, and oak, and it's dry. The standard for single grain scotch whisky is very low, so low you're more likely to trip over it than hit your head on it. This Port Dundas, however, has raised that standard, perhaps to knee height. 28 years did wonders here and further proved that grain whiskies need 2-3 times the age of their malt counterparts to truly excel. The palate reminded me somewhat of Bowmore Gold Reef and White Sands, making me imagine what an unpeated Bowmore might taste like. I got this bottle at auction for $85, which now seems like a complete bargain. I'd suggest anyone interested in trying older grain whiskies seek them out. Stick to those over 25 years old. I debated between a 4 and a 4.25, but considering everything, I'm going with 4.25. Cheers

A trip down remembrance lane with fellow travelers from a Scottish Distillery Tour. We concluded the majority of this pursuit in the Autumn of 2018, but a friend suggested that we search far and wide for samples from distilleries that have since closed while we anticipate new releases. He located this mature grain whisky from Port Dundas and generously shared it with the group. My gratitude once more, friend. Refer to the review from a friend for the distillery's history and specifics about this particular bottle, from independent bottlers Clan Denny. This spirit was distilled in 1988 and bottled in 2017—making it 28 years old. It is obviously non-chill filtered and contains no added coloring, and the whisky matured in reused hogsheads for its entire period. It is bottled at 50% ABV and has a light gold hue with thin legs and medium-to-large drops that quickly descend the Glencairn. The aroma is truly spectacular: juicy pineapple, toffee, and sugarcane deliver the sweetness with an astonishing introduction. It exhibits some ginger root spice with a subtle oak bitterness to respectfully balance the aroma. A buttery undertone drifts from the glass after a brief swirl, as well. But, those pineapple notes truly made my mouth water. Upon tasting, I'm met with those same tropical notes, particularly pineapple and ripe melon, some fresh honey, and malt. Oak tannins appear mid-sip, along with that ginger bite I detected in the aroma, and the oily mouthfeel slowly became dry. The ginger and bitter notes eclipsed the pineapple much sooner than I would have preferred, but this is spirits we are drinking, not some fruit beverage. The finish was medium in length and oak-forward. Lingering malt notes that ultimately left a dry sensation were the only disappointment I encountered. The empty glass did offer some memory of the tropical fruit, and I found myself returning my nose to it several times after the gathering concluded. Overall, this did not strike me as a grain whisky—apart from the dry finish. The age clearly played the primary role here, and the fact that despite these being refill casks, there was still ample spirit left in them. Regrettably, this bottling has likely vanished long ago, and it would be a monumental effort to try and locate more, but I would eagerly seize the opportunity to obtain one. It's difficult to determine its monetary value, but this was a high-quality dram that any grain whisky enthusiast would appreciate. 4.25 stars, and thanks once again for the experience, friend. Cheers.

Like a bear emerging from hibernation, I know I am REALLY behind schedule. Music and Parks on the Air, Inc. have been consuming all my "free" time. This was a real treat, and that's a significant statement coming from someone who does NOT favor grain whisky. This is the sole reason for my delay. I didn't want to be unappreciative when a friend made a generous pour. Wow, this one altered my perspective somewhat. You see, a friend did impress me with their Invergordon higher age statement some time ago, BUT I was NOT fond of the other various grain distilleries. Apologies for the delay on this as well! It's good to see you all still engaged with them! Anyway, back to this particular spirit! The aroma revealed fresh-cut wood, but also a pleasant balance with a slight funkiness. Like an antique shop. A hint of pickling was detected, but nothing excessive. Taste did not disappoint at all, much better than anticipated with a great mouthfeel. Dried fruits like apricots are more prominent. A slight leathery note, some watermelon and mango. Long aftertaste, with more of the dried fruits and a subtle tobacco note. Adding a drop of water, the aroma shifted to more of a surge of sugary sweetness. Light brown sugar/confection or powdered sugar. Reduced the fruitiness, but brought forth a nutmeg flavor or Chinese five spice, without any anise or licorice notes. For all the "old school" enthusiasts, we need a song, right? Since "time" seems to be the theme for appreciating great whisky, the pour, and the time it takes to build these great connections, let's celebrate and say the theme is "Time Has a Way" by the Pattern-Seeking Animals. One of my all-time favorite bassists, Dave Meros, showcases the bass parts here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTeWkAwUDOM

I always appreciate the chance to try spirits from distilleries that are no longer operating; they are both scarce and hard to find. This particular one was provided by a friend. The closure of this distillery differed from others; it wasn't due to economic challenges or shifts away from certain styles, but rather a recent business decision to focus grain whisky production elsewhere. This move allowed another facility to thrive while this one ceased operations. Regarding the tasting: Contrary to another opinion, I don't find the aroma appealing, detecting a very industrial, grain-like scent. However, the palate is where it truly excels. Allowing it to sit for a while and adding a few drops of water unlocks flavors of tropical fruit, starting with pineapple and coconut. It has a lingering finish. If not for the disappointing aroma, it would be highly rated. The palate is exceptional. Tasting it blind without smelling it, I wouldn't identify it as a grain whisky. The palate is significantly superior to the aroma. Most importantly, it's a rare find, and I'm especially grateful to my friend for sharing it.