Smells of toasted nuts, fall foliage, oranges, spiced fudge, peanut oil, brown sugar, wood shavings, and a whisper of rye spice. Entry is spicy and sweet with ginger, white pepper, and dried fruitcake. Oak tannins develop with notes of dates, dried figs, cinnamon, and orange marmalade. The texture is present, both slick and dry. A briny quality exists but isn't immediately apparent. Finish: Medium to long. Spicy dark fruit and lemon peel. Grilled green bell pepper with sea salt in the aftertaste. A fine spirit that presents well aromatically but is less impressive on the palate initially. However, adding water transforms it, boosting palate complexity and improving with time. This dram is lively but initially all show and no substance. It's also thirsty; give it water and it mellows. The professional review here is questionable; it doesn't align with this whisky. The community consensus, however, is accurate. Regarding cost, it's a fair value, not exceptional but fair. A comparable independent Gordon & Macphail Mortlach 15 is superior and consistent, though pricier. Also, offer this to your rye-loving friend who claims to dislike scotch; it might change their perspective. “Good”: 84/100 (3.75 stars)
Mortlach 12 Year "The Wee Witchie"
Whiskey Scotch Speyside 12 Year 43.4% ABV
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About this bottle
Mortlach 12 Year "The Wee Witchie," announced in July 2018, is part of a trio of new core whiskies replacing the 2014 releases of Rare Old, Special Strength, 18 Year, and 25 Year. Mortlach is recognized for producing robust, sulphury whiskies through its unique 2.81 distillation process, invented in 1896. This method, utilizing various pot still shapes and sizes, is exceptionally complex. The single malt is aged in ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks and bottled at 43.4% ABV.
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Reviews
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The bottle and packaging initially drew my eye. I wasn't aware of this until a couple of years back and am only now getting to try it. Mortlach malt seems to have been a key component in Johnnie Walker blends, with more of their stock apparently going into JW than their own releases. Now that their lineup has been updated, let's see what their spirit can do, starting with the main offering, “The Wee Witchie.” Aroma: Caramel, vanilla, malt, toffee, fudge, and brown sugar. Coconut. A hint of S’mores. Apple, pear, raisin, cranberry, and apricot (both dried and fresh.) Walnut and toasted almond. Agave. Croissant. Oak. Palate: Apple, pear, apricot, and golden raisin. Citrusy orange. Walnut, almond, and pecan. Toffee, malt, caramel, milk chocolate, and vanilla. A slight hint of cinnamon, black pepper, clove, and nutmeg. Finish: Caramel, vanilla, and toffee. Apple, pear, raisin, and apricot. Agave. Clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, and oak. Lingers for a medium duration. Distilled 2.81 times. 43.4% ABV. A 12-year-old designed to stand out with the moniker “The Wee Witchie.” A striking bottle with broad shoulders. So many distinctive qualities. However, it's ultimately an average Speyside in the end. To be more precise, it's an excellent example of Speyside Scotch. It can seem a little generic at times but offers some unique notes and comes across as slightly unconventional—in a positive way. In summary, it's a really good pour and a solid buy for $55. A promising start to my exploration of Mortlach. I'll certainly be trying more. 4/5.
I'm continuing to review the bottles in my collection that I haven't yet documented. I've started using the Pantone color system, typically used for paints, as I was tired of using similar descriptions for most whiskies; Pantone allows for finer distinctions in color. This one has a clear color, similar to Pantone 153 (slightly lighter than the Mortlach 16, which I'll review next). It's unclear if coloring has been added. The nose is sweet and subtly malty, with notes of strawberry-rhubarb pie, candied peanuts, and fitting for the approaching Fall, pumpkin bread (I haven't had any since last year) - each suggesting the influence of the sherry finish. The palate starts with brown sugar; there's a lingering bacon note, some very mild pepper, and a faint tannic bitterness on the long finish, which eventually becomes dusty. Overall, the impression is sweet and a bit heavy, but somewhat unfocused and lacking a "wow" factor. It's pleasant to drink, but not essential. I purchased this when I was buying more scotch whisky. It's a nice addition if you have an extensive collection and appreciate obscure bottlings, but not something to actively seek out. I rate it 3.5 stars. 43.4% ABV. Note: All spirits were tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
Nose: peach, vanilla, light milk chocolate. Palate: immediately struck by a surge of spices, ginger, pepper. Then vanilla, peaches, and persistent ginger. Followed by coffee. Finish: brief but very enjoyable, with coffee. An excellent spirit, whose only drawback is perhaps being slightly overpriced. Rating 4.25
A respectable example of a 12-year-old single malt. It would be an excellent choice for someone new to scotch. The aroma is very pleasant, with notes of butter, vanilla, and cereal. The palate is also enjoyable, quite rich and oily. It's very fruit-forward, featuring apples, peaches, and vanilla. It almost drinks like a glass of Chardonnay. The finish is decently long with dessert notes; I kept returning to the taste of butter cookies. Overall, a solid pour, but I desired a little more from it.
Even with chill filtering and what was likely added coloring, the producer managed to make a decent product. At least they provided a 43.4% ABV. I had long wanted to sample this particular distillery's offering but was unwilling to pay the premium for older, more exclusive releases. It has a leathery and earthy scent. Earthy fruit becomes prominent on the palate, enveloped by spice that unifies the flavors. Further tasting is required, and it will be savored. It rightfully earned its high score.
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