Lagavulin 12 Year (2020 Special Release)

The brand's decision to restrict the 2019 cask strength version to Europe was disappointing. As someone who likes to have the complete set, I enjoyed every release from 2016 to 2019. This brings me to the 2020 release. My consecutive streak is now broken at three. This 2020 bottling marks the beginning of what I anticipate will be a much longer series. Aroma: Salty sea spray, kelp, and brine. Smoldering bonfire and ash. Damp earth and peat. A medicinal note. Citrus like grapefruit and lemon. Nutty notes of almond and chestnut. Sweetness of custard and nougat. Berries too. A spicy cinnamon warmth. Hints of chili with red pepper and black bean. Oak presence. It’s a lot, as expected from a superb Islay aroma. Taste: Salty sea spray, kelp, brine, and bonfire smoke. A medicinal note. Citrus like grapefruit and lemon. Chili with red pepper and sun-dried tomato. Black bean and red pepper chili. Savory notes of glazed ham and ribeye. Nutty notes of chestnut and almond. Peanut butter. Berries. Milk chocolate with hints of vanilla cake. Custard and nougat as well. White pepper and oak. Delicious. Ending: Salty sea spray, kelp, brine, and bonfire smoke. A medicinal note. Cilantro. Grapefruit. Nutty notes of chestnut and almond. Black bean, red pepper chili. Black pepper, cinnamon, and oak. A very long finish, as expected from a 56.4% spirit. A new streak begins, and the quality remains. The 2020 offering is complete from start to finish. I'm pleased that the eye-catching packaging hasn't overshadowed the spirit's quality. While I haven't sampled every release (and that's fine, as this spirit existed before 2016), I can confidently say this expression ranks among the greatest annual releases in the world of whisky, if not the greatest. A perfect score.

Nose - Briny peat, ash, hay, rich malt, seaweed, almond, clove, tar, pineapple, earthy vegetal notes, light caramel, lemon pith, pencil eraser, apple, dry vanilla, musty grape, cocoa, leather, powdered sugar, with a moderate to high ethanol burn. Taste - Lemon oil, smoky peat, leather, orange blossom, mint, underripe banana, yeast, almond, vanilla cream, chili pepper, toffee, milk chocolate, cereal grain, tar, brine, iodine, bitter herbal notes, decaying grass, with a moderate to high alcohol bite. The finish is medium length, featuring deep citrus, bitter peat, cocoa, and chili pepper flavors. This is the final Lagavulin in my tasting series, and I doubt it justifies the purchase price. However, it does come in a fancy black tube, suggesting it's special and that owning it makes one special. The nose is full-bodied Lagavulin, but earthier and mustier than the 16-year-old. Almond, pencil eraser, and a pleasant, rich maltiness are also present. The palate is deeply citrusy, with well-rounded peatiness and some grassy, underripe banana notes. It's genuinely nice, even great, but the experience doesn't match the cost. I paid around $160 for it, and there are other malts I enjoy just as much or more for half the price. Frankly, I'm uncertain if I prefer it over the 16-year-old. It's richer, thicker, and hotter, but I feel the citrus notes on the palate are overdone and detract from the overall experience. I suggest trying this at a bar or getting a sample, but avoid buying a bottle at the current price unless you're a devoted Lagavulin fan.

Lagavulin Meaty, roasted, smoky, thick, high proof, nail polish - 2.75 Intense lemon zest, pear, fruity, red grapes, berries, cherry, with a bitterness in the aftertaste that is manageable and provides an interesting contrast - 3 Long-lasting oaky notes - 2.75 2.75 Malty, thick, creamy texture, sweetness, pungent, damp, earthy - 3.5 Burn and strong young whisky. Lots of complexity and oily, nutty richness, medicinal - 2.25 Intensely smoky - 3 2.75 In the spirit of Lagavulin, a powerful initial impression with a robust blend of smoked salmon and campfire peat, tobacco. For a high ABV of 56%, the nose doesn't feel the impact; there's slight chocolate. As you drink further, you experience a significant hit of pepper, with no detectable sweetness or floral notes... it's much more of a smoke and spice impact - 3 Damn, impressive complexity and oiliness coat your mouth from front to back. You get a kick of nuttiness, tea, earthy forest floor, campfire, bitterness, creaminess, and a rich texture. The finish is long, with a slight heaviness on the bitterness towards the end due to a strong oak influence - 2.5 You'll experience a sustained campfire note, though a bitter aftertaste persists - 2 2.5

Moving up the age scale in Diageo's 2020 special releases brings us to the yearly favorite, the Lagavulin 12. The nose offers a classic combination of creosote and charred meat, and a bit of water reveals petroleum aromas. On the palate, it starts sweet and becomes savory, with abundant green olive and vegetal notes. The extended finish evokes black licorice candies. It's a quintessential Lagavulin, though of the recent bottlings, I favor the 11 year old much more.

Enjoyable drink. The cask strength provides a solid punch, yet it feels lighter than expected and is remarkably easy to sip. It has a much less dense body and hue compared to the 16, for example. The aroma is perfumed, smoky, smoldering, with a hint of the sea and some fruitiness. The taste is pleasant with some sweetness, a very viscous texture and flavor, a touch of ash, and spice.

Lemon drop, peat smoke, and a hearty burn going down. A very pleasing dram, and the cask strength is a nice touch. It's quite good, but not mind-blowing. I had high hopes for this one, so perhaps my expectations were a bit too elevated. Nevertheless, it was a pleasure to experience. Many thanks to a friend for the generous sample.