Kilkerran 12 Year

KILKERRAN 12-YEAR (Previously reviewed 7/26/22) When I'm seriously evaluating a spirit, I usually spread it out over a couple of days. This is because food, beverages, gum, smoke, or anything else that enters the mouth or nose, along with physical changes like nasal congestion, can affect the taste. I tend to jot down initial impressions of the color, aroma, and taste on the first day. Then, I revisit it to see if those impressions hold up or change, and finally, I elaborate on the details. With Kilkerran 12, my thoughts aren't far from my first review; even if the words are different, many of my perceptions are the same as they were a couple of years ago. Kilkerran 12 presents a lovely golden amber color, similar to aged Chardonnay, around Pantone 123. The initial aroma brings to mind a well-known foreign policy: "speak softly, but carry a big stick." This spirit demands your attention with a sense of both subtlety and strength. It's packed with fruit, featuring notes of apple crumble, candied lemon, pears, honey, banana chips, saltiness, mild smoky peat, dried apricot, guava, hay, and a hint of vanilla extract. (The pears reminded me of a certain other whisky, so I poured a bit of it for comparison; that comparison whisky transformed the smoky peat into a more savory element, somewhere between bacon and smoked ham. This provides taste context). The initial taste on the palate is like a warm greeting from an old friend: friendly, uninhibited, and vibrant. It's also a bit thick—perhaps not ideal for a handshake—and I'll skip further comparisons. There's a touch of sweet wood on the palate, with a flavor reminiscent of hoarhound candy or a cough drop. A hint of nutmeg is present, along with a gentle white pepper spice. The finish is extended: the mild smoky peat returns, along with the salt and banana chips. Online prices for Kilkerran 12 vary between $60 and $110. I don't often see it available, and I don't remember what I paid for it. Considering the average of those prices, would I purchase it again? Absolutely. Not only because whiskies from Campbeltown are produced in small quantities today, but because, much like another well-known distillery, it offers flavor profiles not commonly found elsewhere. 4.25 out of 5 stars—slightly lower than my review in 2022. 46% ABV. Non chill-filtered. No artificial coloring. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Smell: Immediately noticeable are notes of candied ginger, fresh pale sultana raisins, and vanilla. It initially seems quite sweet. However, with continued smelling, a roasted green pepper note emerges, along with a touch of black pepper and brine. The peat is subtle but discernible. It offers a profile that is sweet, savory, and slightly vegetal. WITH WATER: Becomes less sweet than initially perceived, aligning more closely with the taste profile when water is added. Taste: Less sweet than the aroma suggests, but the flavor notes are largely consistent, with the savory elements leading. Roasted green pepper is prominent initially, followed by pepper and salinity/brine. A faint rubbery/sooty note is also present, which wasn't detected in the aroma. Candied ginger then becomes pronounced, supported by pale sultana raisins providing a hint of acidity. Vanilla is a constant throughout the taste. WITH WATER: The balance improves significantly. A malt/granola note becomes apparent, which was previously unnoticed. The peat leans more towards a sooty character than rubbery. Finish: The finish is dominated by notes of candied ginger, pepper, brine, and rubber/soot. It possesses considerable length. The presence of substantial oil content is evident. Mouthfeel: The texture is commendably thick and viscous, especially for a spirit at 46% ABV. While it may not rival cask strength expressions, it surpasses the typical mouthfeel of a 46% ABV bottle. Overall: From the very first sip, I recognized my fondness for this bottle, sensing its special nature. It is exceptionally good and intricate. Considering the initial price paid (74.50 CAD, now 88.50 CAD), it represented an outstanding value. It stands as the finest whisky under $100 I have ever encountered, without question.

Smell: Initially, the aroma presents a malt and vanilla impact, somewhat like a highland malt. As it evolves, a subtle smoke emerges, perfectly aligning with expectations for a classic Campbeltown single malt. This spirit requires patience to reveal its full character but is well worth the wait. Taste: Sweet fruit notes of pears and green apple mingle with barley sugar. As it developed, baking spices and peppery heat appeared, accompanied by an underlying, well-integrated smoke that is present but not overpowering. The execution is commendable. The mouthfeel is a bit thin for my preference, as I favor full cask strength whiskies, but this is a very nice spirit at 46% ABV. Finish: A medium-length finish with nice spice and smoke, concluding with a slight candy sweetness. Overall: I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle and spent many pleasant weeks with it. Would I purchase another? Yes, absolutely. However, for my personal taste, I think I will explore the 16 YO or seek out a cask strength version. It's a very good spirit at a reasonable price, and I would recommend it to anyone.

Nose: Fruit preserves from an orchard, roasted marshmallows, chocolate and marshmallow treats, apricot syrup, white pepper, minty/menthol, floral red apples, faint smoke, a green note (basil), apple drink, oat biscuits, mild spicy wood, dry hay, new barley, hoppy smell, green pear, slight lemon candy, orange zest, pomelo rind, green beans, a spicy tamarind, spices, mild sweet soil-tinged tobacco, chocolate cookies, butter cookies, plain cookies, florals, faint cooked meat, swimming pool smell, hot pepper flakes, sweet dark berries, citrus zest from sherry Palate: Grain sweetness, fermented apple drink, smoky ash, gritty mineral quality, rapid honeyed grain sweetness, smooth/thick grain, moderate medicinal smoke (like a wound dressing), smoky agave, hint of caramel, smoky earth, salt from the sea, swimming pool smell, odd melon, deep chocolate, sweet blueberry, slightly bitter burnt plastic, chocolate cookies Finish: Baked apples, wood fire smoke, a bitter-sweet taste (like absinthe or aperitif), sharp grain/grain sugar, smoky tart apples

Nose: Bitter lemon peel, honey, white pepper, caramel, apricots, baked blackberries Taste: A spicy ginger element and significant maltiness upon entry. Faint notes of apricots and plums are discernible behind a salty and grassy mid-palate. The spirit concludes with moderate rubbery peat. The finish gradually fades over about a minute. The mouthfeel is ideal for this type of spirit. Taste with 2ml of water and 12 minutes: The plum and apricot notes become more pronounced, rounding out the rapid flavor progression. Sea salt and dark chocolate emerge on the mid-palate. The finish shifts from rubbery peat to an ashy smoke character. Remarkably complex yet harmonious. This reminds me of elements from Deanston 12 combined with a young, sherried Islay. This bottle is also non-chill filtered and natural color at 46% ABV. As the spirit rests in the glass, it transforms from an ex-bourbon profile to an ex-sherry profile. It feels like experiencing two spirits for the price of one. Fantastic.

One of the distilleries from Campbeltown that I haven't sampled extensively enough to form a complete opinion on their whiskies is this Glengyle Distillery, home of the Kilkerran Single Malt. The name Kilkerran originates from the Gaelic "Cean loch cillie kiaran," which roughly translates to "Home of Saint Kieran," one of the Irish Apostles, widely considered to have been a significant precursor to Saint Patrick. This is a 12-year-old bottling, presented at 46% ABV. On the nose, it's very tropical. Pineapple, vanilla, peach halves, and dates. Distinct notes of figs, pastry cream, and a subtle peat, which presents as a pond or swamp aroma. On the palate, it begins with a pleasant Capn' Crunch cereal and corn. Raw rice and the adhesive used to seal paper envelopes. It has a nice impact in the finish. A faint cereal note, honey, and ginger. Overall, my second experience with Kilkerran has not been disappointing. This is a solid, good pour for a 12-year-old core expression. It might not be overly complex, but the flavors it offers are very well executed. My rating is 88 out of 100.