Kilchoman Port Cask Matured (2018 Edition)

It feels like every time I get back on track, something else diverts my attention. Two weeks have passed since my last assessment, thanks to a cold, home renovation, and fresh tattoo ink that necessitated a few alcohol-free days. Now I'm back, working through my collection of samples. I found this port-finished Kilchoman, sent by a friend months ago, and decided to try it. It's bottled at 50% ABV, non-chill filtered, with a natural color ranging from dark orange to ruby red, sometimes appearing pink. Nose: The aroma is full of sweet, smoky delight. Sugary confection covered in earth and embers. Grilled stone fruits, sweet barbecue sauce, and grilled chicken. Strawberry lemonade, lemon peel, and sweet port wine notes. Faint medicinal/iodine hints, not unlike a Laphroaig. Oak infused with wine and salty sea air. Peaches and cream, vanilla custard. Mild mulling spices, salted chocolate with a hint of cayenne. Peat, dark honey, butterscotch, and caramel. A buttery and slightly sulfuric note, but neither detracts from the experience. A brief touch of maple emerges from the bottom of the glass. Adding water reduces the smoke and slightly enhances the fruitiness and vanilla. However, it introduces a touch of sourness, making it better undiluted. The palate is sweet and smoky, possessing considerable strength. It leans more towards sweet than smoky. Notes of peppered beef jerky and tangy barbecue sauce. Slightly astringent oak, but still pleasant. Sweet port wine, though not as rich as anticipated. Smoldering ashes, campfire smoke. Very salty, dark chocolate, and toffee. Grilled plums and peaches. Quite good, though perhaps a bit uncomplicated. Water has the opposite effect compared to the nose: less sweetness and a slightly intensified smokiness. It also makes the texture thinner overall, so it's best enjoyed at full strength. A medium to full-bodied texture that is oily, mouthwatering, and coats the palate. The finish is lengthy, with ashy peat, smoky barbecue sauce, and subtle fruitiness. A rather good port-matured Islay spirit. I found nothing objectionable about it. It leans a bit too heavily on sugary sweetness for my preference (I favor savory sweetness), but this is a minor flaw. It's certainly a fitting dram for autumn/winter evenings. It's about what one would expect from Kilchoman: quality at a price point slightly higher than anticipated. I believe my friend paid around $90, and I think that's about $10 too much. A solid 4 out of 5 stars, which is two full points higher than my friend's score. What happened there?

Kilchoman tasting event at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #5 Nose: The port influence is immediately noticeable, with clear notes of red berries and grapes, alongside rosewater and hibiscus tea. The Kilchoman spirit is present but overshadowed by the sweet cask impact. As it rests, an earthy peat smoke emerges with a hint of orange. Palate: A sweet, fruity, and spicy arrival – featuring dark honey, strawberry, cherry, plum, red grape, a very faint cinnamon, and Turkish delight. The sweetness intensifies as it develops, with the focus firmly on the cask. It feels balanced (though see below) and smooth with a spicy tang. The texture is very pleasing and satisfying. Finish: Medium. A lingering taste of raisin fruitcake with a touch of spicy smoke. While I described the palate as balanced, this requires further explanation because two distinct layers are evident in this whisky. There's the underlying spirit (which is itself balanced and enjoyable) and the very sweet, rich cask influence. Smoky whisky can pair exceptionally well with a strong PX, port, or sweet wine influence, creating something greater than the sum of its parts when these elements meld. However, if the distillate and cask components don't harmonize effectively, you end up with two easily discernible, and often conflicting, layers. That is the situation here. This doesn't necessarily result in a poor whisky, but it is distinctive. For those with a sweet preference who enjoy sherry bombs or a heavily fruity finish, this might be ideal. Conversely, if you favor a drier profile or a balance of sweet and savory notes, the whisky may seem unbalanced and excessively sweet. Adding water reveals more floral spirit notes on the nose. It also helps to meld the palate slightly and brings out a subtle hint of licorice, which I found to be an improvement. One positive aspect of the port layer here is its ability to moderate the smoke, keeping it as a more subdued background element. I found it interesting to taste, but it was too sweet for my preference, and it's not a whisky I would purchase. "Good": 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Initially introduced to Kilchoman via Machir Bay, finding that Islay newcomer quite impressive. The Sanig and Loch Gorm are commendable on their own. Port-finished spirits can be challenging; they might be overly fruity or have minimal influence. When executed correctly, the fusion of sweetness and spice offers a delightful reward. Add in some smoky peat and a briny, maritime character, and you might just discover paradise. The visual is a bright copper penny shade with a purplish undertone. A delicate, sweet smoke invites you in. Imagine cotton candy melting on hickory-smoked bacon. The port cask contributes fruitiness to the gentle smoke: plums, strawberry preserves, orange marmalade, apples, and raisins. Continued nosing reveals more sweetness blending with the aromas. Notes of vanilla, milk chocolate, toffee, and salted caramels emerge. The ever-present maritime quality creates a sweet and savory aroma. A touch of baking spice offers a slight counterpoint to the sweetness, including cinnamon, allspice, black pepper, and nutmeg. These elements are not disruptive but work harmoniously. Upon tasting, a moment of disorientation occurs. The intricate, rich nose contrasts sharply with a thin, light palate. Initially, a spicy tingle sensation is perceived. Flavors of peppered, smoked oak (like pastrami?) with subtle fruity notes appear. Hints of grapes, vanilla, grilled stone fruits, and dark chocolate shavings are present. The palate concludes with sooty, charred, ashy notes, though not overpowering, alongside drying oak tannins. The finish lingers, seemingly indefinitely. One of the most complex and inviting noses, suitable for all-day nosing. The body's lack of substance and the relatively subdued flavors are a bit disappointing, as more complexity was anticipated given the nose. The balance of sweetness, smoke, and spice is well-executed. Overall, a skillfully made scotch that falls just short of perfection. Nevertheless, it could serve as a pleasant smoky beverage for warmer weather. Thanks to a friend for sharing. Another quality whisky from Kilchoman. [87/100][Tasted: 7/25/19]

The anticipation of trying the latest Kilchoman Port Cask Matured was immense. I had high hopes, recalling other highly-rated drams like the Laphroaig 2013 Cairdeas and BenRiach Solstice. Every Kilchoman I've sampled thus far has been excellent. I've often commented on how the whisky world would benefit when these producers offer aged expressions, around 12-15 years old. However... The 2018 iteration of the Port Cask, which I believe is the second release, is not a particularly good malt. I've been exploring craft beers for over a decade and have developed a fondness for sour varieties. When a brewery unintentionally bottles a sour that hasn't completed fermentation, it can develop diacetyl acid, ruining the beer's flavor. This results in an artificial, buttery popcorn taste that overwhelms everything else. I detect this same flavor in this new batch of Kilchoman Port Cask. It's so buttery that it masks most of the traditional Kilchoman smoke, which I consider among the finest on Islay. I notice some wine sweetness at the very end of the palate, but it's all overlaid with that buttery and rich toffee flavor, making it almost undrinkable. I finished the bottle, but primarily by chasing it with superior spirits to cleanse my palate. This is bottled at 50% ABV and cost me just under $90, including shipping from the UK. I understand it's scheduled for release in North America by the end of summer, but I strongly advise against purchasing it. It's simply not good. It hasn't soured me on future Kilchoman releases; I hope this is just a minor misstep in their otherwise outstanding history. Consider spending your money elsewhere – opt for a Loch Gorm or Machir Bay instead. My rating: 2 stars. Cheers.

This note is a transfer from another page, as the specific release sampled was the 2018 version. Feis Ile 2018 - Kilchoman update 5. I obtained a sample from the distillery shop, anticipating this tasting with great excitement, as it was the one I most looked forward to. Regrettably, it proved somewhat disappointing. The port finish did not impart the expected character to Kilchoman's base spirit. The aroma remains dry and earthy, with minimal sweetness; notes of mushrooms, rice, and peculiar savory elements are prominent. The palate is sweet, but the port leans towards medicinal sweetness, reminiscent of Laphroaig. This was also unexpected. The finish develops a growing sweetness combined with cinnamon spice and barley. The port seemed to mute the smoke in this bottling, introducing instead unexpected flavors rather than the rich, dark fruits anticipated. It presents as an unusual dram, not unpleasant, but too surprisingly quirky to fully enjoy. For comparison, the distillery's exclusive PX cask demonstrated the potential for vibrant synergy between sweet and peaty notes. My disappointment is amplified by having sampled the 2014 edition the previous year, which was a solid four-star experience. Its aroma strongly resembled Lagavulin 16 after an initial, intense wave of ethanol, accompanied by cinnamon, stone fruit, crème brûlée, and rich smoke. The initial sips were quite salty, perhaps excessively so, but eventually evolved into the same smoke and stone fruit profile. The 2014 Port had a mild finish considering its proof, with slight astringency, charred hickory, and guava notes.

Following two rum-finished whiskies during a recent trip to a NYC establishment, I opted to change direction for my last drink, choosing the Kilchoman Port Cask Matured. I've seen the earlier comments, many of which were lukewarm. Nonetheless, the combination of Kilchoman and port was irresistible. While I wasn't led to ruin, I could easily see why opinions are divided. With each dram, I've grown to really appreciate this distillery. Kilchoman whiskies are bold and substantial, yet possess a grace, much like a masterful blues guitar solo, with deliberate pauses. This creates a delightful drinking experience. However, that grace is absent in the Port Cask Matured. The palate presents as distinct and clashing bursts of sweetness and smoke that overpower each other. Consequently, subtlety and depth are diminished. I wouldn't call it a bad whisky. But unlike the Kilchomans I admire, it doesn't come across as a skillfully crafted dram.