Hakushu 12 Year

Received as a gift from a visiting acquaintance, this is my initial encounter with this distillery's products. I sampled it neat in a NEAT glass after allowing it to rest briefly. I've had this spirit on several prior occasions, and the bottle is about two-thirds full after this tasting. It has been open for approximately one month. The pour presents a very pale, brassy color reminiscent of apple juice, remarkably clear. The aroma is dominated by apples, with pronounced notes of sweet apple juice, tart apple skins, green apples, Red Delicious apples, green pears, a hint of lemon, lemongrass, a subtle grain character, and almost no ethanol scent. It is exceptionally complex yet delicate and refined. After some time, the faintest trace of ash appears, along with an ephemeral note resembling mercurochrome. I appreciate this complexity, especially since the whisky never becomes overwhelming. It is very impressive. The palate maintains its delicacy. A sweet hint of butter and honey appears upfront, quickly yielding to an array of orchard fruits, primarily Honeycrisp apple, green pears, green tea, and graham crackers. As the flavors begin to recede, a pleasant transition occurs to ginger, allspice, and finally, cracked pepper. The finish is moderate, fading cleanly to a lemony tartness with a slight bitter lemon pith residue on the back of the palate. My experience with Japanese whisky is somewhat limited. I've tried Toki (not a fan), Nikka Grain (quite pleasant, though ultimately too understated to hold my interest), Nikka From the Barrel (definitely recommended), Yamazaki 12 (I recall enjoying it but lack specific details), and this one. If this spirit is representative of an excellent Japanese whisky, then I've been remiss in not paying closer attention to this category. Taken on its own merits, this is a top-tier distillate, without question. I employ a straightforward grading system based on a bell curve. Mass-market quality products (like Beam, JD, Woodford, Dewar's) typically fall between 2 and 3. Truly good products begin at 3.5, and above 4 are exceptional offerings that provide a unique tasting adventure balanced with an accessible price point. This spirit fits that description. This is decidedly above average. In fact, well above average.

The aroma begins with a subtle smokiness, like burnt matchsticks or embers, then shifts to pickled ginger. This evolves into sweeter scents of bubblegum, charred pineapple, honeydew, and tangerine, finally fading to anise, cereal, antiseptic ointment, stewed pears, and fresh bandages, with a slight alcohol sting. The palate has a light texture, starting sweet with bubblegum reminiscent of Big League Chew. It then offers pineapple, tart green apple, lemon, and grapefruit zest, followed by light cereal notes. A moderate smoky, drying spice emerges, slowly giving way to pickled ginger, sage, sandalwood, and a medium oak spice with tannins, and a light alcohol burn. The finish is medium in length, dry and spicy, with pickled ginger, mild wasabi or horseradish, fresh bandages, sandalwood, pineapple, lemon zest, tart green apple, and ashy tannic oak. Generally, this is an average spirit that provides smoke, sweetness, citrus, and peat smoke within a thin profile. It's enjoyable enough, but hardly worth the over $200 price point currently seen. When compared side-by-side with Yamazaki 12, they are very similar, though Hakushu 12 is slightly drier and smokier. Now, to decide what to do with the remaining sample. After a chat with my spouse, we planned a fun send-off: a hibachi-style onion volcano. I'll prepare the pan, stack the onions, pour this spirit over them, and then ignite it with a torch, creating a Mount Hakushu eruption that is far more exciting than drinking it.

Nose - pleasant aroma of apple and pears, sugar, no burn on the nose Taste - very smooth, caramel and pear, a brief hint of stone fruit Finish - moderately long and evolves in flavor as it continues, more pear and then charred caramel, sugar, barely any burn Score - 4.5, expensive but incredibly good. I'm fortunate to have finally found this. Scoring Guide 5.0 - Outstanding, incomparable to others 4.5 - Excellent, I'll always try to keep one on hand 4.0 - Very good, quite enjoyable, a solid option 3.5 - Good, would taste again 3.0 - Average 2.5 - Acceptable, still drinkable 2.0 - Inferior, drinkable but not enjoyable 1.5 and below—would not drink unless absolutely necessary

Nose: Orange, honey, a very slight hint of brine and smoke, almost like buttered popcorn. Strawberry, a little vanilla. Mild raisin/date/prune. I can somewhat perceive the fresh cut grass/hay notes some people mention, but they might be faint since this bottle has been nearly empty for some time. Citrus, especially lemon, becomes more prominent as you drink. Palate: Earthy peat and smokiness are present, but as everyone notes, they aren't the main focus. Honey, caramel. Fruity with a briny tang. Finish: Starts with a chewy malt flavor, a full mouthfeel that transitions to apple and honeyed pear. Floral notes are also here, perhaps apple blossom? A mild minerality.

This 12-year-old single malt, bottled at 43% ABV, received a Gold Medal at the 2024 International Spirits Competition. It is aged in both bourbon and sherry casks and incorporates both peated and unpeated malt. The Suntory Hakushu Distillery commenced operations in 1973 in the Japanese foothills of Mt. Kaikoma, part of the Akaishi mountain range. First released in 1994, this 12-year-old expression was temporarily discontinued in some markets in 2019 due to high demand for aged Japanese whisky, before being reintroduced in 2021. I find it slightly more appealing than its counterpart, Yamazaki 12. It offers initial fruitiness, a subtle hint of peat, and spiciness in the finish, which works well for me. Both are excellent spirits.

A robust, Single Malt Whisky from Japan by the Hakushu Distillery, aged for 12 years; it imports peat from afar to create a genuine, smoky spirit. It begins with aromas of fresh grass, sliced peaches, hazelnut, honey, and a faint hint of smoke; its intense character delivers notes of summer fruits, smoky lemon zest, and oaky malt with vanilla, leading to a long, sweet, and warming finish with notes of oak and cinnamon. July 2018 / January / February 2019 / July 2022