GlenDronach Allardice 18 Year

Continuing to taste spirits from my inventory that I haven't yet reviewed. I've always enjoyed GlenDronach since my initial taste, and beyond these three, I've had the chance to try the 21 “Parliament” and the 25 at a venue in London; they also produce other expressions. GlenDro is in the realm of sherry influence, which I find appealing. This also highlights the diversity of Scotch whisky; while I'm a big bourbon fan, that spirit is quite uniform compared to the vast array of Scotch whisky styles, with sherry-finished or "bombed" varieties being one aspect of that range. GlenDronach 12 “Original” A deep amber color, or clear Pantone 138. The distinct sherry aroma presents sweet fig preserves, candied walnuts, faint petrol, quince, white pepper (in scent, not taste), pomander, a bit of vanilla, and a mild spearmint freshness. Of the trio, the 12-year is notably less smooth and giving than the 15- and 18-year expressions. It has some saltiness and dates alongside the aromatic notes. Ethanol appears at the end, leading to mild chili spice and a rather brief finish. The complex aroma is the highlight for me. The taste lacks the smoothness of its two older counterparts; the alcohol content is lower; and the finish is shorter. GlenDro 12 is available for around $60. Would I purchase it again? Yes. 3.75 on the scale. Non-chill filtered. No added coloring. Matured in both Oloroso and PX sherry casks. 43% ABV. GlenDronach 15 “Revival” The deep burnt orange hue of the 15 is slightly darker than the 12-year; Pantone 153. The aroma in the glass is met with rich and warm scents of Christmas pudding, brown sugar, zesty barbecue sauce, and a touch of salt. The spirit is smoother and more encompassing than the 12-year; there's no obvious richness in the mouthfeel. Similar flavors to the aroma, plus pralines and a bit more saltiness. There's a peanut brittle note on the finish, with white pepper, dark honeyed yeast rolls, and mild petrol. The GlenDronach distillery was closed for several years in the late 90s and early 2000s, and the “Revival” name for the 15-year-old expression refers to the distillery reopening after that period. The overall impression of this whisky is one of strength, complexity, and elegance. In contrast to the dark, stewed-fruit characteristics of many aged sherry-casked whiskies, the Revival shows a certain vibrancy and power, fitting its name and history. It costs about $90 online, but I seldom see it locally. The GlenDro 15 Revival is exceptional. This sherry bomb is not just a direct sherry flavor (or taste), but a thorough exploration of its intricacies. I would appreciate a cask-strength version, similar to Aberlour A’Bunadh (GlenDronach does feature a NAS cask-strength whisky on its site, but none with an age statement). Would I buy it again? Yes, if I can locate it. 4.5 on the scale. Non-chill filtered. No added coloring. Matured in both Oloroso and PX sherry casks. 46% ABV. GlenDronach 18 “Allardice” The 18-year expression is the darkest of the three: a clear Pantone 159. The aroma offers rich raisin paste, toasted and buttered raisin bread, vanilla, apple butter spread, prunes, crème brûlèe, cinnamon, and espresso. It is the richest of the three. The taste begins to show some richness. Like the 15-year, the higher alcohol content is masked by the robust flavor profile. Finishes with some smoked pulled pork, dark chocolate, and a hint of espresso bitterness. “Allardice” refers to GlenDronach’s founder, James Allardice. The impression of the 18-year is a deeper, richer rendition of its younger siblings. Not vanilla, but vanilla extract. Not raisins, but warm raisin paste (if such a thing exists). Not dark plum fruit, but prunes. Not coffee, but espresso. Not chocolate, but warm, melted dark chocolate. Quite different from the 15-year, but outstanding on its own. 4.5 on the scale. Non-chill filtered. No added coloring. Matured in Oloroso sherry casks. 46% ABV. P.S. I acquired the 50 ml miniature bottle (of an 18-year-old spirit!) shown in the picture in London; I haven't encountered those in the U.S. Each of these whiskies, while displaying clear signs of sherry aging, are quite distinct. There is a progression in color and complexity. While the 12- and 15- year are stated as being finished in PX and Oloroso sherry casks, the 18 states only Oloroso—somewhat surprising, given that PX is darker, and the 18 is darker as well. I greatly admire both the 15- and 18-year expressions, for different reasons. And the 12, which is considerably more affordable than the other two, is a great value for an introduction to GlenDro’s signature style. These are high-quality spirits that command a premium price based on the liquid inside, not marketing hype. Highly recommended. The GlenDronach distillery, established in 1827, has undergone several ownership changes throughout the years. It was most recently acquired by Brown-Forman in 2016. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

The 12 is good, the newer 15 is outstanding in my opinion, the 21 is prohibitively expensive, but the 18 is attainable for most if we are careful with our drinking choices. It presents a pleasing amber color with very faint, slow-moving legs. For an 18-year spirit, the aroma surprisingly features a lot of honey malt and a significant sherry influence. Initially, the nose is more like the 12 than the 15, which is unusual. It also offers notes of raisin, hay, caramel, a touch of lemongrass, subtle dark cigar wrapper, and perhaps a hint of leather and buttered toast. The taste reveals aged wood, slightly bitter walnut, allspice, cayenne, leather, and a dark cigar. Any perceived youthfulness from the aroma is absent here. There's likely a foundation of deeply caramelized malt, but no hay or honey notes, unlike a spirit such as Oban 14. The texture is neither viscous nor oily and feels somewhat hot. The earthy, aged flavors gradually fade beneath a layer of varnish, leading to a light finish of raisin and tobacco. Exhaling through the nose makes it feel like I've smoked a cigar instead of drinking whiskey. However, my tongue detects nutty PX sherry flavors that persist for well over 4-5 minutes. So, the aroma is misleading and reminiscent of the 12, while the palate is like the 15 amplified considerably beyond 18 years. According to online rumors, it might indeed be older than 18, as GlenDronach was said to have incorporated much older stock for a period (up until around 2016?). This raises the question: is that beneficial? Similar to 15-18 year bourbons that often emphasize wood and earthy notes (like Rhetoric 21, Kentucky Senator 15, Masters Keep BiB 17, etc.), one must wonder if Scotch can be too aged. I'm truly unsure. Glenfarclas 25, for instance, strikes me as remarkably well-balanced. This particular bottling is a bit overwhelming for my palate. It's not that the scents and tastes are absent, but rather their progression. I wish some of the honey from the nose was present with the earthy notes on the palate, and I'd prefer the sherry-forward finish to manifest more in the mid-palate instead of appearing fleetingly. With more sips, it does begin to harmonize, but unlike the dramatic flavor surge of the 15, this has its highs and lows, leaving me perplexed. It's wonderful yet confusing, and expensive, especially when the 15 is very reasonably priced and, for now, readily available again. If aged wood and earthy notes are your preference, this might be ideal and worth the cost.

This distillery consistently impresses me and is a strong contender for my top sherry cask-focused producer. However, the cost increases substantially beyond the 15-year mark, so it took me a considerable amount of time to try this one. Let's see if it justified the expense. Nose: Dried apricot. Fruitcake. A hint of pine. Hazelnut. Plum, date, fig, and raisin. Cranberry and raspberry. Some orange citrus and lots of almond and walnut. Butterscotch and vanilla. Caramel. Like sherbet. Palate: Plum, grape, date, and fig. Raisin and raspberry too. A touch of fizzy cola. Plenty of orange/tangerine citrus. Milk chocolate and vanilla, reminding me of ice cream. Chewy caramel. Lime or perhaps raspberry sherbet. Finish: Almond and walnut. Plum, date, fig, grape. Blackberry jam. Cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, white pepper, and oak. Red hot candy-like heat on the way out, creating a medium-long finish, supporting the 46% ABV. This is an outstanding whisky. It's incredibly complex, with rich, dark fruit flavors dominating throughout. The dessert-like sweetness is also prominent, and the profile is complemented by pleasant citrus notes. It possesses all the characteristics of a classic sherry-matured scotch. The sole drawback is the price. At $280, it's a very high cost for an 18-year-old, which I see as a transitional age between premium and ultra-premium. This carries a decidedly ultra-premium price tag, and generally, it lives up to it. I'd say it falls slightly short of hitting its mark for value for money, so I'm reducing my raw score of 4.5 by a quarter star to account for value. It's hard to recommend purchasing this at its current inflated market price, but purely for enjoyment, it's absolutely superb. Additionally, just to add another observation, I didn't enjoy my initial pours. It improved significantly with air and time—this is why I always taste a bottle at least twice before reviewing. It made a real difference here, because, as complex and rich as it is now, it initially seemed flat and lacking the layers I'm discovering currently. 4.25/5.

Nose: almond, dark stewed fruit, dates, fig, plum, maraschino cherry, custard, mocha, tobacco. It's thick and viscous even on the nose. There's a tart note here that contrasts all the dark, deep notes, which enhances the nose. Palate: cherry, plum, raisins, chocolate, with a slightly spicy oak appearing towards the end. The mouthfeel is thick, as hinted by the nose. Finish: The age is apparent here with a long, dry oakiness, accompanied by almond and chocolate notes. This is a 2019 bottling, which is rumored to be considerably older than the 18-year age statement due to the distillery's closure and reopening in 2001. Because of this period of inactivity, 2019 is theoretically the last year before the new production reaches the minimum 18-year age requirement. Considering this, the nose was surprisingly restrained with oak, instead being filled with what I'd call low bass notes (dark red fruit, tobacco, coffee, and chocolate). The palate closely resembles the nose but is a bit simpler, with a wonderful viscosity. Overall, this is my preferred expression from Glendronach's range. Having tasted all but the 21 Parliament, it's also the most distinctive. I attribute this to its aging solely in Oloroso Sherry barrels, whereas all other expressions in the line use a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez. I appreciate whiskies that highlight dark and deep notes, and this expression amplifies them significantly. While I concede the nose is somewhat more complex than the palate, that's a minor flaw in an otherwise excellent whisky.

There's a good reason why numerous whiskies from all five scotch regions, American bourbon and whiskey, and Japanese whisky utilize sherry-cask finishing: it adds color, depth, and complementary sweetness. Glendronach has been finishing in sherry casks for nearly two centuries. Glendro describes the 18's color as "bright deep gold with a tawny centre." While I hesitate to contradict the distillery, it's quite dark. I'd describe it as tawny with deep gold edges. It has more darkness than brightness. However, the distillery accurately captures the first nose descriptor: fudge. The sherry influence is undeniable, with brown sugar, almond cake, spiced orange, and spice cake. These aromas translate to similar flavors on the palate, along with a subtle warmth; the slightly higher than usual 46% ABV is well integrated. Sweet tobacco and leather complete the finish. The scoring of 84 by one critic is off. Glendro 18 is a pleasurable, thoughtful scotch that offers a delightful drinking experience and can be savored throughout an evening. Note: All spirits were tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

The aroma and taste match perfectly. A subtle yet full blend of well-integrated scents: coffee, dark, underripe strawberries and other red fruits, wine-soaked candies, savory crackers, tart plums, a clear, gentle spice blend (pepper, nutmeg, ginger), pleasant chocolate nougat, and smooth blanched almonds. Everything is wonderfully smooth and intensely concentrated with a hint of dryness. This is an exceptional whisky. The ultimate sherry bomb. I doubt many can deliver the sherry bomb sensation as well as this. However, you must appreciate that style to fully enjoy it, as some might find it overwhelming or too fruity. For others, this is nearly perfect. If the distillery released a similar age statement as a smoky version, I would purchase it immediately. I enjoy the distillery's "Traditionally Peated" expression, which has no age statement – imagine that at 18 years old.