Balcones Baby Blue

To begin this evaluation, I'll share some details about its creation, for those keen on such things; otherwise, feel free to skip ahead. My sincere appreciation goes to the customer service department and the distillers at Balcones for assisting with my inquiries! The subsequent commentary, with the exception of the final statement, originates from my correspondence with Balcones. Balcones’ Baby Blue corn whisky (stylized without the final 'e' as per Balcones' preference) begins with locally sourced West Texas hopi blue corn. (In prior years, a blend of West Texas blue corn and New Mexico roasted blue corn was utilized. Initially, however, it was exclusively New Mexico roasted blue corn.) This is followed by roasting, mashing, and fermentation. As the distiller stated: “Balcones employs extended/acidic 7-day fermentations, exposed to the air in Waco, to cultivate fruit characteristics and to allow the local microflora of Texas to participate and leave their mark on our methods.” While American whisk(e)ys and Bourbons heavily emphasize yeast, Scotch producers prioritize their water source, with island distilleries frequently highlighting their peat-rich water. Balcones’ water for proofing is drawn from the limestone-abundant Balcones Fault Line, visually represented in their emblem. This underground source is also known as The Edwards Aquifer, supplying numerous public and private entities, as well as approximately two million people in south-central Texas. Balcones utilizes two distinct yeast strains in their whiskys. Their single malt incorporates dry malt whisky yeast alongside dry ale yeast. Conversely, their corn and rye whiskys are made solely with the dry malt whisky yeast. The rationale provided was that “The malt whisky yeast complements the flavor of the base grain exceptionally well, ensuring we achieve rich, grainy notes that accentuate our premium roasted blue corn.” I opted not to inquire about the distillation process. My familiarity lies more with Scotch distillation, and I was unprepared to ask, not wishing to impose a teaching session on an already occupied distiller. However, Balcones did mention that Baby Blue is consistently “double copper pot batch distilled.” (Give that a try saying quickly three times!) The alcohol content as it leaves the still ranges from 65-68% ABV, and it is then put into barrels at approximately 57-60% ABV. It's important to note, however, that this figure can fluctuate as they “adjust the entry proof for each fill based on the anticipated influence of oak compounds remaining in a used barrel and the profile of the new make spirit.” This leads us to the barrels. Baby Blue would likely otherwise qualify as a Bourbon, but for its aging in used barrels, which include a combination of Balcones’ own (225-240 liter capacity) and unspecified used KY Bourbon barrels (200 liters). Balcones’ own used barrels (heavy toast, char #3) seem to have previously held a variety of spirits: “ex-rye, ex-bourbon, ex-malt, ex-corn.” My particular bottle of Baby Blue was aged for “a minimum of 12 months.” Earlier batches had a minimum aging of “6 months,” while the distiller noted that for the past two years, Baby Blue has been consistently blended and bottled after 24+ months. Now, let's examine the bottle itself! Allow it a moment to rest in your glass to experience how this remarkable whisky evolves. First/Second Pour Nose: Initially, during the neck pour, my nose detected a slight metallic note upon first entering the glass, an experience unique to the initial dram after opening. With some patience, however, the subtle robot aroma emerged from my tulip glass, giving way to notes of banana and cream, vanilla frosting, caramel, and a doughy, oat-like character. After a few minutes, a hint of citrus appeared. From there, you can oscillate between the citrus and the oats as you prefer. With further time, a light toffee emerges, distinct from the earlier, richer caramel, providing a pleasant underlying presence alongside fully integrated notes, where the citrus transforms into spice and the doughy oat yields to roasted, creamy corn. Although the aromas are still limited in number, their presentation, execution, and quality are what impress. Third Pour Initial Nose: The preceding notes persist, with the key difference being the disappearance of the metallic note; the whisky greets the nose with a burst of caramel and corn, which shift like flowing drapes, occasionally revealing glimpses of a crisp red apple behind them. Palate: The palate is abundant with caramel and corn. The initial to mid-palate features a ripe peach-like essence, transitioning to more caramel and roasted corn on an extended finish, which lingers like familiar companions. Overall, a delightful whisky offering excellent value for its cost! Another well-known corn whiskey is Mellow Corn (aged 4 years, bottled in bond), which, according to Heaven Hill, contains “at least 80 percent corn,” while Baby Blue is made from 100% (hopi blue) corn—both corn whisk(e)ys are aged in used oak barrels. Despite both being categorized as “corn whisk(e)ys,” do not mistake them as they share few commonalities beyond their classification. This spirit is not the most intricate. While not versatile in its flavor profile, its strengths are executed with exceptional skill. Please note, this is unlike a bourbon. You won't find typical bourbon notes here, as rye/wheat and barley are absent. Instead, consider this an exploration of the wonderful possibilities of corn when allowed to develop on its own, with skillful guidance, of course. This is unlike any other whisk(e)y I have encountered, and I enthusiastically recommend it. No coloring. Non chill-filtered 46% ABV Aged a minimum of 12 months in oak batch: BB21-2 Bottle date: 11.18.21 Sources: •Balcones Customer Service •https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/distiller-profile-balcones-distilling/#:~:text=Our%20proofing%20water%20for%20our,the%20form%20of%20plate%20tectonics. •https://www.edwardsaquifer.net/ •https://heavenhilldistillery.com/mellow-corn.php •https://www.twdb.texas.gov/groundwater/aquifer/majors/edwards-bfz.asp

This corn whiskey tasting pits two against each other. Corn whiskey, a more direct relative of bourbon, requires at least 80% corn in its mashbill, with no age or barrel requirements. Straight corn whiskey has the same mashbill rule but must mature in oak for a minimum of two years. Balcones Baby Blue is labeled as Corn Whisky, whereas Mellow Corn is a Straight Corn Whiskey, also Bottled in Bond, indicating it is 100 proof and four years old. Balcones Baby Blue (3.75): Clear like turbinado sugar. The nose presents maple syrup, Jiffy cornbread, cinnamon, buttered toast, and a hint of bacon. The palate starts with a bit of heat, then brown sugar and vanilla, finishing with lingering vanilla. This distiller is one I'm watching more closely; I recently enjoyed their Texas Pot Still bourbon. Mellow Corn (3.25): Bright gold hue. The nose offers subtle green banana, summer grass, mild butterscotch, light oak, and ethanol. It has a light glycerin mouthfeel, slightly warmer than Baby Blue due to its higher 100 proof, with some vanilla, white pepper, and vanilla on the finish. I've almost finished this bottle and find it a pleasant change of pace to explore other American whiskies at a lower price point. I'll keep a bottle handy. I imagine it would pair well with pecan-smoked pork butts and Brunswick stew. The vintage 1940s-style label is also a favorite. Balcones Baby Blue is clearly the more intricate and layered of the two, costing around $35. Mellow Corn, however, is higher proof and, while not overly complex, is enjoyable to drink and widely available for approximately $15. Although typically found on the bottom shelf, it drinks much better than most whiskies in that category. While some might call it one-dimensional, so is Compass Box Hedonism (reviewed yesterday) at 8-10 times the cost. Note: All spirits were tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Since I prefer my whisky neat, without water or resting, I've moved away from my three-stage tasting method and simply try it straight from the bottle. This bottle, a fifth or very close to it, I purchased for $39.99 at Total Wine in Albuquerque. The mash bill is 100% roasted blue corn, and the labels state it's AGED AT LEAST 12 MONTHS IN OAK. I understand the brief aging period is why it's called "baby" blue. It's 92 proof, and similar to Balcones Pot Still Bourbon, it doesn't drink like it's at such a relatively high proof; I used to experience more alcohol burn from 80 proof whiskies before I developed a preference for higher proof spirits. The color is golden amber. The legs form rapidly, are widely spaced, and trail down slowly. The nose of this whisky initially presents notes of caramel and very faint oak. Considering the short aging period, I wouldn't anticipate significant oak presence. Upon immersing my nose fully in the glass, I detected a smokiness, followed by roasted corn. When I tasted the whisky, I experienced smokiness, caramel, and a mild bitterness, similar to hops. It was a pleasant bitterness, akin to the bitterness in beer, but I've never encountered that in a whisky before, and it was surprising. On the very tip of my tongue, I tasted brown sugar. The finish of this Baby Blue whisky is of medium length, beginning with a smoky oak flavor. This is where the alcohol is most prominent, and the hop bitterness is more noticeable here. This is a straightforward whisky, but it's among the finest I've ever sampled. Balcones has a reputation for crafting bold, intensely flavored whiskies, which I found to be true of their Pot Still Bourbon. This whisky, which one might expect to be somewhat mild due to its short aging, is also bold and distinctive. For a simple whisky, it's remarkably good, but I've come to expect only the best from the Balcones distillery. I unhesitatingly award this whisky five stars.

Smell: Popcorn, butterscotch, cotton candy, burnt match, black tea. Taste: Initially sweet, then splitting with corn-forward tastes on one side (popcorn, corn syrup, butterscotch, caramel) and a sharp, tart, bitter tannic note on the other (burnt sugar, charred wood). The mouthfeel is pleasant but overwhelmed by the harshness of the taste and lacks any depth or development. Aftertaste: Medium/long. Bitter tannin and charred grains with a faint sweetness lingering. Perhaps early tests with un-toasted corn yielded a whisky that was excessively sweet, prompting the distillery to use toasted corn instead, or possibly it was an attempt to impart a smoky character to the grain. Regardless of the intent behind this whisky's creation, in my honest opinion, the endeavor is only somewhat successful. This is very young, intense, and uncomplicated. If the taste had developed a mild smokiness from light toasting of the grain, it might have worked, but it has gone far beyond toasting and tastes distinctly burnt. Furthermore, aging the spirit in small, active barrels has not helped, and there is excessive oak extraction. I have enjoyed other expressions from this distillery, but this particular one is not to my liking. Other palates seem to favor it, and I admit it is technically well-crafted with no apparent flaws in distillation. If you prefer your whisky with a significant oak influence, then fine, but my preference leans towards expressions where the spirit itself is the primary focus. Therefore, I strongly suggest sampling this before purchasing a bottle. I bought an entire bottle on sale and am now slowly working through it as a mixer, but it's a struggle and I'm not particularly enjoying the results. “Adequate”: 74/100 (2.25 stars)

An intense Corn Whisky from Balcones Distillery in Waco, Texas, crafted with roasted blue corn. Its aroma presents notes of Cracker Jacks, melted butter, nutmeg & raw chocolate; its rich & spicy character adds notes of blue corn tortillas, nuts, exotic fruits, spun butter-toffee & Ancho Chipotle peppers; leading to a finish reminiscent of a movie theater with notes of Popcorn, Wesson Oil, cedarwood, leather & bell peppers. August 2020 / 2022

The alcohol impact is immediate but quickly yields to a lovely combination of cherry and vanilla cream. The warmth subsides over time, leaving a lingering, smooth sweetness. The finish hints at something akin to pepper, not black pepper, but more like jalapeño. Several spirits from Balcones have presented similarly; perhaps this is a Texas characteristic, I'm unsure. Regardless, it's quite enjoyable!