Ardbeg Fermutation

Ardbeg has been quite inconsistent lately and has faced some criticism from certain whisky enthusiasts. One of their recent committee releases is this "Fermutation," a single malt that boasts an interesting backstory but makes me hesitant about the taste. Essentially, the story behind this whisky is as follows: a broken boiler in 2007 caused distilling to halt unexpectedly while the washbacks were full of fermenting wash, leaving the wash to ferment for three long weeks (normally between 56-72 hours at Ardbeg). That wash was later distilled and aged for 13 years, then bottled at 49.4% ABV. This is how Ardbeg Fermutation came to be. But, is it any good? On the nose, it's remarkably strange. Noticeable notes of cotton socks, tennis balls, swamp, and lemon. Plants, seaweed, plowed fields, and rainforest. You get the idea. After a first sip, it became very yeasty. It smells like craft beer, bread, and some maritime notes. Citrus forest fruits. Very intriguing. On the palate, it starts with plastic, earth, plowed fields, and marshmallow. This is incredibly tasty, but you get the feeling that even though it's so enjoyable, it might not be good for you, lol. Aftertaste can be described as a "Wimbledon Tennis Final": sweat, grass, tennis balls. It has this sharpie marker note. Feels very artificial, like a factory. Mr. Clean chemicals. Overall, there's no logical reason for this combination of elements to be good... and it isn't good... it is INCREDIBLE. Everything I've just described feels amazing with every sip; it's like a whisky adventure. This is precisely what I seek in new single malts: something interesting and novel. What a magnificent dram this has been; it's infinitely better than both "Ardcores." My score for this marvelous experience is 100 out of 100, and I will acquire another bottle for my home bar.

This bottling came about from a wild event where the whisky market got too hot, and Ardbeg mistakenly cranked the price way up. The small sample I have is likely all I'll get of this new Ardbeg special, so let's ignore the cost fuss and savor it. Citrus, brine, tropical fruit, and richness on the nose evoke Lemon Puff biscuits, a classic teatime treat. It feels airy, with distinct flavors and ample presence for each. A sharp hint of peat and some malt notes are present subtly. It's typical Ardbeg 10 territory, not wildly experimental, vaguely like Auriverdes based on my recollection. On the palate, it's bright and lemony initially, then becomes zesty and tart, similar to gooseberries or goldenberries. Those tart notes remain enjoyable on the aftertaste. There's minimal peat or smoke, but the alcohol strength carries the tastes well. We can argue about the price later, but setting that aside, it's a good new addition to Ardbeg's taste range, and I'd be pleased to have a bottle.

I had the chance to try this at an event featuring Glenmo/Ardbeg with brand ambassador Bryan Simpson. This was a mystery pour on the table that had me guessing all evening. I own many Ardbegs, but this one had a distinct difference, something I hadn't encountered before. Nose: Exceptionally creamy - prominent notes of genuine vanilla - not the sharp, artificial vanilla found in Canadian whisky. My best comparison is a lemon curd cheesecake. All components were detectable, including the graham cracker base. Palate: The palate was quite distinct from the nose. It possessed an incredible aged-cheese funk. It was almost like a gym bag in terms of being sweaty, sour, rubbery, and funky. I've never experienced anything like it in whisky, and it wasn't unpleasant! Notes of fresh fruit and herbs were also present. The smoke seemed entirely absent. Finish: An extremely long-lasting finish. Sweet, buttery, with a great mouthfeel. Overall, a really great bottle, and quite unique. I'd love to add it to my collection, but at $450CAD after taxes, I'm not sure it amazed me enough to justify that cost. I would definitely buy this if it were closer to $250.

Sometimes creative endeavors succeed. Sometimes they don't. But for a distillery like Ardbeg, even unsuccessful attempts generate revenue. It's highly uncharacteristic of Ardbeg. Citrusy. Almost tart. Then some soot appears. Then a sour lactic acid note? Finally… a sudden, sharp hit of peat emerges. To me, it's simply too jumbled, a poorly constructed combination. Although I only had a 1-ounce sample, I would be extremely displeased if I had paid anything near the market price. It lacks the complexity and smoothness I'd anticipate from something at this price ($250+). You first encounter citrus. Then soot. Then sharp peat. All as separate elements without any transition between them. Not to mention that sour lactic acid taste. That was very uncharacteristic of Ardbeg. I'm likely in the minority…but another special release Ardbeg that was a letdown.

A drinking buddy covered the cost of this. So, I'm not discussing the price, except to say it's excessively steep. Unfortunately, I don't anticipate this situation improving. Prominent lemon notes lead into a funky yogurt character, with subtle peat and smoke. It's quite harmonious and smooth. Perhaps the extended fermentation or its thirteen years in the barrel contribute to the smoke and peat emerging gradually and gently. It's somewhat like a subdued Ardbeg, but still a pleasant experience. As I received it as a gift, I'm scoring it a 4. I found it pleasing and desired another sip. However, not for $200. Had I purchased it myself, I might have reduced the score by a quarter to a half point.

My initial impression is that the Fermutation has a more citrusy/minty aroma than pure peat. The first taste stays on the tongue longer than anticipated, with a pleasant orange peel-like scent. In terms of peat, this dram is more refined than Ardbeg 10/Cory/Beastie, but the difference is more akin to the distinction between Laga Distiller's Edition and the 8 year old. While the Fermutation didn't deliver the intense impact I was secretly hoping for, I'm pleased to have it in my collection.