Mortlach 22 Year (The Maltman)

Aroma: Aromatic and substantial, yet not cloying or excessively sweet. Vanilla, oak, a bit of honey. Apples, freshly cut grass. Preserved citron, lemongrass, barley, toasted almonds, tobacco, leather, and earth. A fantastic aroma. As it evolves in the glass, the vanilla scent moves forward, but after roughly five minutes, a robust, fresh oak takes over. After fifteen to twenty minutes, malt and citrus push through to become primary. [NOTE: The dry glass scent is strong honeysuckle]. Taste: Pungent, smooth, creamy, and oily – delightfully alluring and, frankly, perfect. During its development, notes of brine, sweet cereal, lime zest, a hint of vanilla and coconut, and oak appear. A touch of more assertive ginger spice with mineral undertones. Quite bright and vibrant, even after twenty-two years, with no burn whatsoever – just a pleasant, cozy warmth. The cask selection was ideal. Finish: Medium-short, but very satisfying. Sweet cereal fades into mustard, arugula, citrus, walnuts, and dark chocolate. A fleeting taste and scent lingers after the dram is gone – initially seeming almost metallic, but pleasant. Eventually identified as the faintest hint of smoke (or possibly barrel char). I generally appreciate a Mortlach, and this is among the better ones I've encountered. The old "Beast of Dufftown" is an infinitely changeable chameleon – some expressions are light and fruity, others as robust as a plate of offal – but this one is a middle ground. Grassy, oily, woody, and meaty, yet overall leaning towards the softer, fruitier character of the distillate. If only all spirits could reach this quality (though it's not one for a beginner, unless you're feeling mischievous). I added two drops of water to the final few sips for scientific purposes. It made little difference beyond dilution. Enjoy this one neat – it's perfect at 46% and water only detracts. Combine one part Craigellachie, one part Clynelish, and one part Springbank, and you'll approximate the profile of this spirit. My initial tasting was from a 30ml sampler, and after trying it, I immediately purchased a bottle. I have no idea if it's still available anywhere, but if so, you've been informed... "Very Good": 87/100 (4.25 stars)

I appreciate seeing the diverse styles that independent bottlers can offer from a classic distillery. This isn't the typical robust, rough Mortlach; it's been refined, but not in a negative way. It subtly showcases the best qualities, resulting in excellent balance, mouthfeel, and considerable complexity. It would be interesting to sample another Maltman bottling and to finish a bottle of this.