Lagavulin 12 Year (2017 Special Release)

NOSE: 91/100. Peat is detectable from a great distance. It's between the burnt florals of the 8 year old and the burnt barbecue meat of the 16 year old, but immensely more potent than either. There is no balance. The primary, secondary, and base note is peat. It's challenging to move past, but why would you want to? If you wait patiently, and add a good bit of water, you might detect faint floral buttery notes as your senses adjust to the intense smokiness. PALATE: 96/100. It brings to mind an enraged Bruce Banner. This is intense, briny, and piquant. But above all, it resembles spent charcoal embers. It requires water to reveal any complexity. Once it opens up, you encounter pine needles, tree bark, and lemon zest. All, naturally, are being consumed by coal. The sweetness is tainted by iodine, and it reminds me of anatomy class. Its deliciousness is almost frightening. I suspect it's carcinogenic, beyond the effects of the ethanol alone. FINISH: 93/100. Lagavulin 16 has one of the finest finishes in any whisky, and this doesn't quite measure up. It lacks the savory, meaty smoke that lingers indefinitely. This smoke is more akin to menthol, floral, and ash. Other notes are present, but truthfully, who is paying attention? This dram is all about the smoke. OVERALL: If you are a peat enthusiast, Lagavulin 12 is nearly flawless. It has far more density than the 8 year old, and considerably more power than the 16 year old. Comparing recent vintages, the 2015 and 2016 are likely the most subtle and well-rounded. The 2013 and 2014 are much more aggressive. The 2017 is probably somewhere in the middle. Movie pairing: A Monster Calls. Liam Neeson as the monster, and the relentless emotional impact of the film is fitting.

With this 12-year-old expression, I have now possessed all four of the standard Lagavulin releases (though this one might technically be considered a special edition). This 2017 bottling received excellent reviews within its series, leading me to anticipate it would justify its premium price. Lagavulin has consistently met my expectations, so naturally, I anticipated a high-quality experience. Nose: There's a lot happening aromatically. Prominent citrus notes, specifically heavy lemon and perhaps a hint of grapefruit, are immediately apparent. Candied orange follows, leaning more towards sweetness than pure citrus. Beneath these layers are sweeter elements like honey, vanilla, coconut, and honeydew melon. Apricot and toffee are also present, alongside agave. Despite the prominent peat, the smoke acts as a supporting element. The Islay influence is evident through sea salt and iodine. Almond and heavily salted cashew notes are detectable. A light cinnamon spice, likely from the high alcohol content, is present but far less pronounced than expected for a 56.5% ABV spirit. Aside from this, the complex aromas effectively mask any trace of alcohol. Truly outstanding. Palate: The texture is creamy yet oily. Here, the signature Lagavulin campfire smoke emerges. The prominent citrus notes persist, primarily lemon now, accompanied by a notable black pepper spice. Iodine, ash, and sea salt remain present, along with vanilla, custard, toffee, and honey. Red apple and raisin flavors are also detected. Rich dark chocolate is a standout characteristic, one of my favorite aspects of Lagavulin. A hint of mint chocolate underlies this. Salted caramel becomes quite pronounced towards the finish of the palate. It drinks as if it were a much lower proof while maintaining its cask strength integrity throughout. Phenomenal. Finish: The finish is long. Initially, I detect smoked salmon, a truly unique and gratifying note. This is followed by a return of dark and mint chocolate, salted caramel, and a few slices of Granny Smith apple. It offers both a main course and dessert experience. Cinnamon and black pepper take over as the sweetness recedes, guiding the finish into a gentle conclusion. It truly doesn't get any better. There are no surprises here. This earns a perfect 5-star rating without question. Having sampled the 16 and 8-year-old expressions, I find this 12-year-old fits perfectly between them. It embodies the bold character of the 8-year-old while incorporating the refined qualities that only age can impart. Intense citrus, smoke, and spice harmonize with rich, dessert-like sweetness and dark fruit notes. Considering its cask strength and the distinct smoked salmon character, this is easily among the finest whiskies I have ever tasted. Even at $130, I would purchase it again, and I recommend you do the same.

I recently acquired a sample of this, and I actually anticipated being underwhelmed, as this is among Diageo's less premium special releases. They reserve their highest prices for their most elusive bottlings, like Brora. In this instance, a lower price and easy availability do not equate to lesser quality. I believe I've sampled perhaps one or two of their Lagavulin special releases over the years, and none truly impressed me. This one is a different entity altogether. Simply magnificent! It might be the finest Lagavulin I've had (which, to be transparent, only includes two special releases, the 16-year-old, their 8-year-old, and a few Diageo Limited editions). An astonishing fusion of sweet honey and charcoal-grilled meats; chocolate over a campfire; a hint of Mezcal-like minerality... all in all, phenomenal. For the price (around $100), it's an undeniable must-buy. You can find much worse for considerably more, but not any better for less. Superb craftsmanship. I'm not typically one to advocate for purchases, but honestly, acquire this one. It's worth every cent.

Whisky's highest point. Bottle is half full, opened 2 months. Smell: smoky, salty, creamy, vanilla. Taste: Extremely thick, citrus, saltwater, ash. Aftertaste: Lingering, sweet cream, ash. Worth: The best whisky experience I've had. I've already purchased another bottle. Every time I select a different spirit for my whisky exploration and notice this on the shelf, I feel a pang of regret leaving it behind. Countless hours have been spent contemplating visiting various liquor stores that still stock this bottle and spending my wife's money. Rating scale: 5.0 - Buy every bottle you can find. 4.0 - A must-buy before you die. 3.0 - Good, try at a bar or borrow from a friend. 2.0 - Didn't enjoy it, but you might. 1.0 - You have the taste buds of my dog, who is known for his self-grooming habits.

This is magnificent. Truly stunning. The nose is among the finest I've ever encountered. Unbelievably, despite originating from a robust Islay malt, it is exceptionally creamy and rich. Once you adjust to the campfire peat, you discover the most delightful vanilla custard and a subtle citrus, akin to lemon custard pie. I was astonished; unlike the 16 or 8-year-old expressions. The creamy quality carries through to the palate. It's not delicate due to the alcohol content, but it is creamy, oily, and coats the mouth. The citrus is more pronounced and undeniably lemon now. The peat reappears in the finish, which is long, rich, and luxurious. Absolutely one of my all-time favorite drams.

Nose - reminiscent of smoked meat, pineapple, and possibly lemon. Lightly smoked oak is also present. The alcohol is noticeable but mellow, making it very approachable on the nose even at 56.5%. Taste - possesses a peculiar umami off-note, but it's wonderful. Sweet Lagavulin malt character. I consistently detect a hint of banana, but not in a young, immature way. Smoked fruits and meats, perhaps like a roasted pig and pineapple, but that umami flavor persists. I'm genuinely enjoying this 2017 release, a 12-year-old at a reasonable price. At least, it was reasonable when it was released. A score of 3.0, and I would purchase it again.