Fettercairn 12 year 2006 (North Star)

Tasting event in Sydney, July 18, 2019. Spirit #1 Smell: Mildly malty with a trace of maple syrup, abundant barley sugar, and some oak, but it's a rather subdued aroma initially, requiring water to open up. It develops some pleasant floral notes but also some peculiar metallic undertones. Taste: A clean cereal arrival that's a bit hot due to the high alcohol. Some subtle white berry fruit (grape, gooseberry), icing sugar, but predominantly - loads of barley sugar. Water reduces the alcohol heat, gradually enhances the berry character, and makes the palate creamier. Finish: Medium/short. A grainy, dry aftertaste that becomes sweeter and significantly longer with added water. Not an overly complex spirit, but with a splash of water and some patience (quite a lot), it improves... to a degree. Tasted neat, the aroma is sweet but very restrained, with barley sugar being the dominant scent. Adding water reveals more of a fresh grain note, and the aroma becomes much more floral over time, with scents of freesia, jonquil, and honeysuckle emerging. This is when it's at its best. However, there's a point where things take a sharp turn, and the aroma becomes distinctly soapy – specifically like Lux laundry soap flakes (you likely need to be of a certain age to recall that; if the reference is unclear, imagine the scent of lightly floral bathroom soap or even dish soap, and you'll be close). It's neither a pleasant nor desirable aroma in a spirit. Simultaneously, there's a smell akin to an aluminum baking pan scrubbed vigorously with steel wool. On the palate, a similar change occurs; water initially brings out even more barley sugar, but eventually, a soapy note appears there too. Water is crucial for maximizing enjoyment of this spirit, but the window of pleasantness is narrow, and it never truly becomes a remarkable dram. Considering the considerable expense, it's not one I would suggest. Fettercairn has been available as a single malt for a long time but isn't often encountered. The majority of their production goes into Whyte & Mackay blended scotches, which is likely its best application. This is likely the least impressive North Star spirit I've tasted, and in my view, it's not worth even half of the asking price. "Adequate": 71/100 (2 stars)

Slightly smoky, sharp