Cappelletti Pasubio Vino Amaro

Appearance: Cloudy yet nearly clear brown. Resembles an old oloroso sherry, but less transparent. Aroma: Blackberries, blueberries, pine trees, juniper, red vermouth, and cider vinegar. A secondary aroma evokes ale and sarsaparilla, with a very subtle hint of ash. Palate: Sweet and honeyed flavors on the initial taste, but not heavy at all. These transition to mint and pine over a backdrop of blueberries, grape skins, and red grape juice that's just starting to turn. Further development introduces herbal notes and a mild bitterness from gentian and wormwood. It possesses an excellent, subtly warming, and palate-coating quality. Pasubio is a distinctive amaro, one of the few types based on aged red wine instead of neutral spirit. This results in a completely different profile from most, and it can be surprising on the first sip. I tasted it for the first time last night and didn't care for it much initially; it seemed quite foreign. After another small liqueur glass, I began to understand its character, but I still wasn't highly impressed. I had deliberately avoided reading the label to prevent influencing my tasting. This evening, I poured another glass and read the label. “Vino amaro” it clearly states. Of course. Suddenly, everything made sense, and when I nosed it knowing it was wine-based, it seemed familiar and well-balanced. It's remarkable how a tasting experience can transform when you find a missing piece of the puzzle. This is a skillfully made amaro of the “alpine” style. It shares similarities with Braulio but is less crisp. It is very unlike sweet amari such as Montenegro, Meletti, and Vecchio Amaro del Capo, and it lacks the bright citrus notes of Averna or Lucano. It's likely one of the least immediately appealing styles, but it is rewarding once you become acquainted with it. There's a faint suggestion of both vermouth and sherry. “Very Good”: 85/100 (4 stars)

10.4.22 Served: Cordial glass, chilled from the fridge (no water added) Previous drink: jungle bird Aroma: Salami and other cured meats. Perfumed florals and dried citrus. Flavor: Nutty and heavily oxidized, like sherry. Some simple citrus pith provides complexity, and there's a bubblegum-like aftertaste, occasionally tasting lightly minty. It is certainly complex and distinctive. But that doesn't guarantee it's good. It lacks cohesion and seems all over the place. I would not drink it again. Not suitable for complex cocktails. I might substitute it for sherry in other cocktails out of curiosity for added complexity, but it doesn't excite me. Note to self. Attempt in a bamboo if possible. But do not buy a bottle for that purpose.

“An homage to a mountain range in Northern Italy. Flavors of pine, blueberry, smoke, and alpine herbs. Deep flavors and a luxurious texture, built upon a rich wine base.”