Caol Ila 17 Year (2015 Special Release)

This is number 4 in my ranking of 33 opened bottles, determined by numerous blind tastings. I'm counting them down! #4: Caol Ila Unpeated Style. Single Malt Scotch. 55.9% ABV. 17 years. B2015 Paid $173 I'd only purchase this again if it were less expensive. This bottle is currently available for $130-150. It's more likely I'll explore another edition of the Caol Ila Unpeated Style, as this is an annual Diageo special release. When I first opened this bottle 8 months ago, I disliked it. It reminded me of dust, limestone, and weak tonic water. I recall describing it as having backbone but lacking a soul. I used a significant amount in mixing experiments before giving it another try. It improved considerably. It got so much better that this is the first of four 5-star whiskies featured at the end of this countdown. The buttery, lemon pie notes eventually emerged, now enhancing an exquisite aroma. When I had a newly opened bottle, the only fruit present was citrus. Now, as I finish this bottle, there's a whole fruit basket! Apples, apricots, lemons, limes, plums. Everything is nicely balanced with rich vanilla, baking spices, and brine. The finish seems carbonated. I still detect some tonic water. I also notice hints of peat, even though this is labeled "unpeated." An apple flavor persists, similar to hard cider. Adding water makes it sweeter and less tonic-like. I should have known better than to judge the Caol Ila Unpeated too quickly. Diageo releases this expression annually, and they wouldn't continue year after year if it wasn't successful (consider the $900 NAS Clynelish from some years ago, a failed special release they ceased producing). However, Lagavulin 12, which is slightly less expensive, is still the superior special release. 8 months ago, I would have said the Laga was infinitely better. Today, I'd say it's only marginally better. MARK: 93/100 PREVIOUSLY, ON BATMAN: #5: Paul John Peated Select Cask. $84. 55.5% ABV. NAS. 92/100. #6: Redbreast. $96. 43% ABV. 15 years old. 92/100. #7: Yamazaki. $74. 43% ABV. 12 years old. 92/100. #8: Lagavulin. $70. 43% ABV. 16 years old. 91/100. #9: Benromach. $65. 43%. 16 years. 91/100. #10: Talisker Distiller’s Edition. $72. 45.8%. D2000/B2011. 91/100.

From a hotel gathering before Whiskyfest, here's a go at the Caol Ila 17yo Unpeated special release. This distillery produces this style of spirit a couple weeks annually, showcasing their malt's character without peat. I previously had their 15yo Unpeated and wasn't a huge fan, so my expectations were low. I was, however, pleasantly surprised this time. Bottled at 55.9%, near cask strength, it has a yellow-gold color and forms quick, long legs in the glass. I suspect no added color or chill filtering, though I lack the bottle for confirmation. On the nose, expect lemon zest and oak, with hints of salt and grass throughout. Subtle orange citrus notes are present in the background. It appears light and airy unless you delve too deep and encounter the heat from the alcohol. The palate reveals spicier notes of ginger, pepper, and oak, alongside lighter elements like olives. The texture is oily and somewhat thick. The peppery notes linger on the tongue, and the finish quickly becomes dry. Combined with the high alcohol content, it feels extremely hot and drier than it is, which leads me to deduct some points. Adding water might soften it, but that's not my preference. Perhaps if Caol Ila had diluted this to 48%, I could have enjoyed it more. My thanks to a friend for allowing me to take a sample home for independent evaluation, rather than judging it against the significant bottles shared at the hotel. It didn't fare well in that setting, but on its own, I enjoyed it significantly more than anticipated. I still believe Caol Ila's peated expressions are superior, but this one was decent. Rated 3.75 stars, rounded down to 3.5 due to the high price point of these bottles. Cheers.

A friend provided this whisky for a hotel room tasting session the night before Whiskyfest. Caol Ila occasionally shifts its production from its usual peated style for a short period each year to make a small quantity of unpeated whisky. This 17 year old is a result of their experimentation. Bottled at cask strength of 55.9% ABV, and I'd wager it's non chill filtered. As it's Diageo, I can't be certain about added colorant, but the color is a yellow gold. The aroma begins with lemons and lemongrass, similar to regular Caol Ila but without the peat, plus oak, salt/brine, and green olives. Some sweetness emerges with honey, pineapple, grapes, berries, blackberry jam, oranges, and apricots. It's slightly herbal and earthy with a faint chalky note. Some brown sugar rounds it out. Adding water brings out more of the oranges and apricots. Too much water intensifies the olive brine, which I find undesirable. A potent and robust palate. Hot. Heavy on the olives and lemons. Some ginger, oak, apricots, and dried pineapple. Water reduces the heat but doesn't improve the flavor at all, just more olives. Medium to full bodied, hot, and mouthwatering. The finish is medium long, vegetal, with olives and oak. Well, it's not exactly bad, but it's not quite good either. It's essentially a hot mess. Caol Ila should stick to peated expressions, or if they intend to continue with this unpeated style, they should alter the cask type and incorporate some sherry. This might introduce some much-needed sweetness and fruitiness. The vegetal/olive notes were the undoing here; otherwise, it would have been acceptable. Additionally, at $145, it's not a great value for a 17-year-old. I rate it 3.5, and I believe that's fair. Cheers

Perhaps Caol Ila should concentrate on their peated expressions, but I'll give this a shot. The nose offered malty barley, ginger, wood, lemongrass, and honeysuckle. All quite understated, along with vanilla and smoke. The palate presents a strong olive flavor, plus saltiness, brine, and ginger. The medium finish is chalky and reminiscent of seashells. This isn't my preference, but I see two potential uses for this bottle. First, it would complement sushi or other dishes that pair well with very dry beer. Second, it could work in a blend with a PX/Oloroso sherry or other specialty cask like port, manzanilla, amontillado, etc. A great price for a 17-year-old at $117, though I suspect I was lucky. It's not bad, just not to my taste due to the lack of sweetness, fruit, or more smoke. The theme for this dram is "Fear of Salt" by Buckethead. 2.75.

While the other person reviewed the 15 yr, and this is the 17, my overall thoughts are similar. My perspective is that if you remove something great from a whisky, like the peat in this instance, something else must be added to maintain the same quality level, unless what was removed was masking something superior, which is not the case here. Now, this is certainly not a bad drink; it has sweetness, citrus creaminess, and a hint of smoke, among other things. A few drops of water open it up a bit – I enjoy it. However, it doesn't stand out for any particular reason. As I consumed this, I thought, damn, I would love to try the peated 18-year version again. A 3.5-star rating, and at $130 USD here in New Zealand, that equates to a 3 overall.

I'll revisit this one as it develops. It's quite intriguing to experience an Islay without peat. A distinct salted butter note dominates the taste from start to finish. Smoke is present, but without the peat, like the embers of a fire from the previous night. Subtle tropical fruit notes hint at a fruitier character to come once it matures. Lemon citrus and oak spice complete the profile. Fortunate to acquire this for around $130 years after its release. That's a good price, but I'd hesitate above $150.